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Removing Barrel Plug on Pedersoli

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ELewis

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Hey all,

I have a 1764/1766 Charleville replica from Pedersoli...when they drilled the vent hole, they dug the bit into the breech plug leaving a furrow(sorry no picture, it's too deep in the barrel but I can see it). I would like to remove the breech plug, and "soften" out that furrow just a touch so that it doesn't collect fouling right in front of the vent hole like it is doing. When I removed the barrel from the musket, I noticed this little "spline" on the bottom of the tang, like it is locking the breech plug in or perhaps providing an index for the plug. I cannot seem to see a means of removing the spline so that the breech plug can be removed......anyone run into this before and what is the solution??? thanks!!!!
spline.jpg
spline2.jpg
 
That looks like an indexing reference mark to me.

Please use hardwood blocks and rosin to secure the barrel in a large strong vice. When you grab the plug do so from the bottom so you don't maul the top of the tang. If using a big cresent wrench protect the plug with shim stock. IF there is a liner it must be removed first. On some pedersoli guns the liner screws in to the side of the plug like CVA. I have never take pedersoli charlaville apart.

Are you sure they notch faced the plug? Normally they use excessively long plugs with powder chambers. Those also cause fouling accumulation and reliability problems.
 
That looks like an indexing reference mark to me.

Please use hardwood blocks and rosin to secure the barrel in a large strong vice. When you grab the plug do so from the bottom so you don't maul the top of the tang. If using a big cresent wrench protect the plug with shim stock. IF there is a liner it must be removed first. On some pedersoli guns the liner screws in to the side of the plug like CVA. I have never take pedersoli charlaville apart.

Are you sure they notch faced the plug? Normally they use excessively long plugs with powder chambers. Those also cause fouling accumulation and reliability problems.
I'm pretty certain it is not simply an indexing mark. There is a slot cut in the bottom of the tang and the bottom of the barrel.. then there is a slim/thin piece of steel inside those slots. You can actually feel and slightly flex the thin piece of steel with a pair of tweezers. I don't want to go pulling on it until I know more about how this whole thing goes together. Yes, I'm sure they notched and mauled up the face of the plug when they drilled the vent hole. I can see it when using my borescope.....the musket does NOT use a vent line, just a simple 1/16" hole drilled in the side of the barrel. Thank you for your recommendations on the technique for removing the plug...that's very helpful.
 
I can’t find a photo of what is needed, but this multi-purpose tool that I made maybe helpful. Note where the rusty plug is in the jaws. That part has a taper and is clamped very tight to the tang. The wrench that I spoke of has a fixed jaw with a taper and works in a similar manner. Shop the muzzleloader supply sites and maybe you can find one. I make many of my special use tools as that’s easier for me then shopping.
IMG_0720 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
I can’t find a photo of what is needed, but this multi-purpose tool that I made maybe helpful. Note where the rusty plug is in the jaws. That part has a taper and is clamped very tight to the tang. The wrench that I spoke of has a fixed jaw with a taper and works in a similar manner. Shop the muzzleloader supply sites and maybe you can find one. I make many of my special use tools as that’s easier for me then shopping.
IMG_0720 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
Thank you!!
 
It is not uncommon for the touch hole drilling to hit the breech face. It is the same on my Pedersoli Brown Bess. I don't think it will be a serious problem if you clean after shooting. I shot perhaps 20-30 rounds through mine without any problems with fouling using period cartridges.

I agree the crease on the bottom of the barrel/plug is a matchmark.

Here is my tang wrench. Web site is defunct but I think Al Shafer still has some of these to sell. You can find him on N-SSA forum.
IMG_7302.JPG
 
Late to the party I have same rifle had same issue. Soak it overnight with Kroil. The breach plug is somewhat of slight taper that makes it look as on piece. Soak it over night clamp carefully in a vice mine was very tight no surprise apply slow constant pressure. As others have indicated that is in fact the index mark hardest part is getting it in the vice I have thick rubber vice guards that worked well for me. Slow even pressure. Then dress the factory notch to your liking. I actually added a touch hole liner my touch hole was aft of center so with a 3/32 pin router I pulled the hole a bit forward and then using drill press and drilled the hole in steps. The liner blended right in with the barrel you would never know the rifle has a liner. You will need to debur the liner a bit to make everything flush with the barrel and get your scraper flush with the plug face. Just take your time.
 
If you have the right tools easy to do.

First you’ll need a bench vise, a large one of course, my vise jaws are custom made of aluminum.

Aluminum shim that can wrap around the barrel, the aluminum will not mare the barrel.

Make sure the flat on the barrel is aligned with the vise jaw.

A large crescent wrench, placed from the bottom up of the breech plug.

Turn left with a good grip.

I used my navy arms 1766 charleville barrel as a demo in the video.

The most important part, when the plug is out, take care to wrap it in leather, nothing with lint, small amounts of lint fibers in the threads can cause corrosion issues, and place in a safe spot. Then coat in anti seize grease (graphite colored crease).

Reattach and line up the witness mark beneath the breech.

This isn’t something that you ought to do often, only when necessary.

You can use a a set of wooden blocks too, the aluminum was recommended to me from Dave Stalvo of Lodgewood MFG and it works perfectly.

FYI the plug on this miroku charleville barrel has been properly anti seized with graphite grease, so its a little easier to remove. Older barrels, might be a little tougher.
 

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