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Removing a Acraglas Stock finish?

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I found i have a gallon of stripper with MEC, Toluene, benzine and other good stuff but not MEK. I tried a test patch on a thick un scraped section and let it sit for 30 minutes at 50F. Thrilled to see it really softened the surface allowing easy scraping. Think I am on to something.
 
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If it is a factory gun with factory finish, and a Browning mountain rifle, I am 90% sure it is the finish I described above. Factories do not use consumer products.
 
If it is a factory gun with factory finish, and a Browning mountain rifle, I am 90% sure it is the finish I described above. Factories do not use consumer products.
Not even close to a factory JBMR or ones finish. Custom used stock was found loose at a show. Its now fitted with Factory Johnathan Browning barrels in .54 and ,45. These were also found loose at another show. Neither barrel had anything but sights attached - no plugs or tangs but were absolutely brand new. Was able to determine stock was originally inletted for a Griffith brand lock, Plug and tang from the Hawken shop. I altered a cherry corners DST by lengthening the forward section by 3/4" to fit the inlet. Rest of parts were either available or custom made in my shop. The best guess the barrels were sold as surplus when the JBMR. was discontinued. I can only conclude stock was set aside as someone hated the finish as much as i do. Again 75 is closing in and finishing all my lifetime projects i am permitted to,
 
IF you live in a state that still allows it take it to a furniture refinisher that has a stripping tank. Be CRYSTAL clear you do not want it sanded. It will come back clean and ready to sand or scrape.
 
If you don't know what a finish is, try alcohol first. If it softens, then it's shellac. If it doesn't, then try lacquer thinner. That will soften BOTH shellac AND lacquer. If a no go at this point then you're dealing with a polymerized oil, varnish OR, a 2-part epoxy finish, so the stripper is next. If that doesn't work then you MAY have to blast.
 
As I suspected it is a 2 part epoxy, most likely acraglas. Stripper with MEC is working (slowly) and have first layer off one side. I would never recommend epoxy on such a nice stock.
 

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If a two part epoxy finish, heat will soften before you damage the stock if you pay attention. MEK is a ‘good’ chemical choice as long as you work with plenty of ventilation. Pretty much a risk benefit thing. Wish you luck.
 
As a OSHA trained level A (moonsuit) type i'm ready for anything. Actually the guy i bought my place from was an avid welder and equipped the shops insulated 12 foot ceiling with a large high capacity squirrell fan and 3/4 HP motor. Will suck all the air out in 20 seconds leaving you to freeze your keister. Not leaving door open before turning on fan is rather painful.
 
Word of caution on strippers. True "aircraft" stripper as used on aluminum boats & airplanes is absopositively dangerous to use indoors without industrial strength ventilation. Two helicopter techs at our local national guard shop found out the hard way. Anything that will strip an aluminum boat to shiny metal can mess you up permanently. Can't recall the brand name offhand. Anyway ..
 
Word of caution on strippers. True "aircraft" stripper as used on aluminum boats & airplanes is absopositively dangerous to use indoors without industrial strength ventilation. Two helicopter techs at our local national guard shop found out the hard way. Anything that will strip an aluminum boat to shiny metal can mess you up permanently. Can't recall the brand name offhand. Anyway ..
Memory loss is first sign of stripper vapor inhalation!!
 
Its stripped as far i wish to go. Stock shown wet with water before dewhiskering. Friends don't let friends use acraglas as a stock finish. May add slight permanganate stain with tru-oil final.
 

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Just stripped my 1860 pistol grip a few days ago. Started off with Lacquer thinner, it melted the top coat away using a cotton towel to rub with. The top coat gave way and the stain started to lighten.
After it was as light as I could get it I took 500gr wet/dry and et it with he same thinner and stripped away all the stain.
I used True Oil on a Caliber 30, M1 beech stock I had. It came out way to shinny and I will have to redo it, but the the finish will be ok for the pistol grip.
Been waiting for the black dye to set in, its been two days, tomorrow I lay on the Ture Oil.
 
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