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Remington #11 caps

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My 3rd Gen Colt 1849 pocket will only take the Remington #11 cap as it is shortest (0.152) in over all length of the common primers "once upon a time available" in the US ..next in length is the RWS 1075 (#11) that is 0.160 in length followed by the CCI #11 at 0.165
One would not think a mere 0.008 would make a difference but the RWS 1075 will not go on the nipple when the cylinder is in/on the weapon ..
The rub therefore is simply with the conflagration Remington has gone thru and their assets scattered like a well built hand grenade ...I wonder if the percussion caps from Remington in the Remington dimension will ever see the light of day again?

Bear
 
Your over thinking it,,
Your nipples are worn. Replace them.
Because,,
,, your right, . +/- 0.008 doesn't matter.

p.s. and next time, stop dry firing on the new nipples just because it's fun
 
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It does matter. I have a revolver that states to use ONLY Remington #11 caps. Being curious, I had to figure out why. I tried CCI #11 and Remington #10. It binds the cylinder. The cylinder won't turn at all sometimes and once in a while it will drag the cap and leave a little gouge (and possibly make it go off although it didn't happen when I was experimenting). Put Remington #11 caps on this revolver and it works perfectly.
 
Your over thinking it,,
Your nipples are worn. Replace them.
Because,,
,, your right, . +/- 0.008 doesn't matter.

p.s. and next time, stop dry firing on the new nipples just because it's fun
Necchi I see i did not explain the situation clearly ...It is a Colt Factory new 1849 Pocket model 3rd generation ..and I know you were pulling my leg about dry firing ..even a greenhorn would not dry fire on nipples ...would they???
Anyway the problem is the longer caps cannot be gotten on the nipples because the backing plate of the revolver is so close to the nipple you cannot even square up (align) the primer with the nipple to slip it onto the nipple ..I suppose you could in desperation place the over long cap on a small dowel rod and "flare" the skirt of the percussion cap but then you may be opening yourself up to chain fire from the back end

Thanks Bear
 
Would new nipples help or modifying the current ones. And yes some people do dry fire on BP guns mushrooming the nipples and then wonder why they don't work right.
Incredible dry firing bare nipples!
I suppose if Remington does not come back alive in the #11 department or if the Winchester nipple is not in the 0.152 over all height range then a search for shorter nipples will have to commence ...

Bear
 
Hhmm, interesting. Who makes the gun?(brand). Sometimes "factory nipples" aren't the best for easy operation of the gun. And until one can afford to replace them with custom/aftermarket nipples, one has to make accommodations. If the cylinder won't cap proper while installed,, then maybe it should be done differently, including the possible use of a dowel outside the frame??
It's a PITA,, but ya gotta do(?) Right(?)
 
Some people have little to no common sense. I don't dry fire any of my guns, even if they say I can.
If that makes you feel happy then continue to refrain from dry firing your revolvers.

That said, if the correct nipples are installed and the gun is in good working order, cap & ball revolvers hammers never touch the end of the nipple when the gun is dry fired or when the hammer is just dropped to the fired position.
The hammer comes to a stop against the frame of the gun leaving about 1/64" of clearance to the end of the nipple.
That 1/64" clearance is more than enough to detonate the priming powder in the percussion cap because the priming compound is about 1/32" thick.

Of course, if rifle length nipples are installed in the cap & ball pistol, the hammer will hit the end of the nipples if the gun is dry fired.
Rifle nipples cones are much taller than the cones on revolver nipples and that is where the problem is.
 
Incredible dry firing bare nipples!
I suppose if Remington does not come back alive in the #11 department or if the Winchester nipple is not in the 0.152 over all height range then a search for shorter nipples will have to commence ...

Bear
What is your location? Maybe someone would swap you some Rems.
 
That said, if the correct nipples are installed and the gun is in good working order, cap & ball revolvers hammers never touch the end of the nipple when the gun is dry fired or when the hammer is just dropped to the fired position.
The hammer comes to a stop against the frame of the gun leaving about 1/64" of clearance to the end of the nipple.
That 1/64" clearance is more than enough to detonate the priming powder in the percussion cap because the priming compound is about 1/32" thick

Something very few revolver shooters are aware of. Part of fine tuning a six shooter. If the clearance doesn't exist and the weapon is never dry fired, it will still swell the nipples.
 
Maybe you got the wedge in too tight,, driving the cylinder back too far.
Those wedges aren't supposed to be pushed in all the way,, it's an actual adjustment point for proper gap.
 
Maybe you got the wedge in too tight,, driving the cylinder back too far.
Those wedges aren't supposed to be pushed in all the way,, it's an actual adjustment point for proper gap.
Yes you are correct in your observation ..but my wedge is barely catching past the rounded end on the right side and there is zero light between clyinder and forcing cone and the cylinder turns freely ..

Thanks
Bear
 

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