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Red Loctite really works, even where you don't want it to

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Hey guys, thought I would share one of my dummy of the day scenarios. :doh: Photos shown are of non discussion inline parts. The post is about a mistake I made, not about the inline. Two items I want to expose from my mistake: 1. Make sure Red Loctite is where you want it. 2. Red Loctite works very well!
First photo, the thumb end of the striker part needed to be Red Loctite installed. Second photo, the striker with thumb end on. Here is what occurred: Pistol was together and I put the muzzle up and placed a dab of Red Loctite on the threads at the thumb screw location. I waited a little bit for it to set, or so I thought and then placed the gun on my display wall. The gun lays at a 45 deg with the muzzle up. Three or so weeks later I go get the gun down for a shoot pre check. The striker would not pull back. I put the barrel in my Rice barrel vice jaws and then proceeded to tap the striker using a wood dowel and hammer. No dice, none, would not budge. I ended up having to use a C clamp and push it out. No damage, but wow OH wow does that stuff stick. The bottom photo shows the little drip that ran down the striker into the knurled sleeve and caused havok.
Whatever you do don't get sloppy with Red Locktite😂
Larry


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I would stay away from red for anything muzzleloader related. Blue would be the highest strength needed and even that would be a bit strong for most applications. Violet or small threadlocker is what works best for our applications. As mentioned, heat is your friend for loosening, also loctite works on the absence of oxygen.
 
I wonder what the old guys used for thread locker. Having used thread locker for a great many years in my machine repair jobs, I hate the stuff. It’s very rarely needed, much like torque specs. I’m all for it in those rare cases it is needed, but there are few applications that can’t use retaining hardware like split washers and lock nuts. I suppose in guns there might be need, but as you say, less in more.
 
I think in the old days a drop of lacquer on the threads would do. I work on speedometers from the 50s and that's how it was done back then.

Loctite supposedly requires steel or iron to set up, but I haven't found that to be true.
 
Painter is right with heat.

Red Loctite will release find with heat.

Just enough to burn your fingers if you touch it but not so much you change the temper.

I wouldn't use a flame because it heats too fast.

But one of them hair blower type ones that can strip paint or bend pvc pipe.

Give it a little heat, try turning easy, if it won't turn easy, give it a little more heat.

It will get to the point the red stuff will go soft and the threads will be free.

As with any threaded fastener, try going tighter then looser, once the threads break free of each other your are in good shape.

You can look up the actual temperature the stuff fails at in the technical specifications of Loctite. The red kind may be 273, I am not certain.
 
There's a very small fastener I need to sometimes loosen - an adjusment grub screw - and I've found that holding a soldering tip to its head will soften the thread locker enough to accomplish the task. Boogered a few before I figured that one out.
 
Red Loctite is Stud and bearing mount. Don't use on threads unless you actually know what to do. Use blue or green on threads for non-professional use.

Red will require heat to remove. I like a soldering iron put iron on screw head untill very hot try loosing. It won't right away before you break of the head or slt heat more.

I made lot's of pay when in the business due to red Loctite. $30 t0 $50 per screw in fact.
 
Green is for permanent mounting, not for thread locking.I only use green for sleaving a liner into a barrel.Blue or nailpolish (lacquer) for threads.
 
I have always kept a small tube of red Loctite in my shooting boxes and have made many fixes with it over the years. Have used on loose sights, screws, etc. Parts can be removed with proper fitting screwdrivers, care and a little grunting. Red is it for me.
 
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