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Ready to fire CVA 45 cal Kentucky Pistol - need help choosing powder, caps, and patches

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Mcclarydesign

32 Cal
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Ok, so this pandemic thing finally gave me the time to finish out the CVA 45 cal percussion Kentucky Pistol kit I picked up a while ago. While I have a number of guns, this is my first black powder kit and before I screw something up firing it, I thought it would be prudent to post on here for some advice.

I know these are probably some very newby questions but here goes.

1. What size or type of caps should I buy to use?

2. Is there a recommended type of black powder?

3. I purchased some lubed patches- anything special I should know?

4. I have my gun cleaning kit I use with my other guns. Is there anything special I need to clean this gun after firing it?

Any other last advice?
 
The CVA percussion pistols use a #11 cap. Brand is not important
With a 45 cal I would use 3F real black powder.
Pre-lubed patches are not a good idea. Buy some dry round patches and lube as you go.
I buy my patches from Track of the Wolf and lube with mink tallow. Any good lube will work.
Pre-lubed patches have a tendency to deteriorate and cause issues.
A gun cleaning kit is usually a product made for smokeless powder guns.
It's best not to use petroleum products or solvents on black powder guns.
Smokeless solvents will not remove black powder fouling as well as Dawn and H2O.
Soap and water for cleaning, any non-petrol lubricant will work.
Other Advice? HAVE FUN! This is a fascinating hobby with no limits.
If you take the time to finish your profile, let us know where you are. One of us could be close enough to meet up and show you the easy ways...
 
Ok, so this pandemic thing finally gave me the time to finish out the CVA 45 cal percussion Kentucky Pistol kit I picked up a while ago. While I have a number of guns, this is my first black powder kit and before I screw something up firing it, I thought it would be prudent to post on here for some advice.

I know these are probably some very newby questions but here goes.

1. What size or type of caps should I buy to use?

2. Is there a recommended type of black powder?

3. I purchased some lubed patches- anything special I should know?

4. I have my gun cleaning kit I use with my other guns. Is there anything special I need to clean this gun after firing it?

Any other last advice?
You want to use a .440 diameter lead ball for the projectile.
Use real black powder or one of the synthetic black powders like Pyrodex or Seven7seven. A powder load of anywhere between 15 and 30 grains will work fine. (if you have a .32 ACP or a .380 ACP cartridge shell it will work nicely for a powder measure.)

Your pre lubed patches may be weak of they are old but they should work ok in your pistol with the light powder loads I just mentioned.
You might want to try using an old worn out cotton shirt for patches for the ball if your pre-lubed patches are too thick.
Lubricate the patch with light oil or something like Crisco if you don't have some other patch lubricant.

The gun uses #11 patches.

Always clean your pistol as soon as you can after shooting it. Use plain water, some dish washing detergent and a cleaning patch on a .45 cleaning button (jag). Be sure to oil all of the surfaces after washing the barrel and lock.
 
Just to add, the CVA pistol works well with a .440 round ball. I would start will 20-30 grains of powder although could use less just for targets. If you are loading and shooting, spit patches work well. In my early days I used crisco too on patches although most don’t recommend it now. There is better stuff but it won’t cause great harm.
 
In case you don't have a manual for your pistol here is one I downloaded a while back., I have a CVA .50 cal. Kentucky pistol. The manual is for a rifle but all info should be the same except amount of charge to use and there is a chart in the manual. Hope this helps;
 

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The mention about gun cleaning kits comes down to this. Sectioned rods, not a good idea. Brushes that are coupled to the threaded shank via a pressed collar are prone to coming apart at the bottom of your barrel. You want the style that is connected via twisted wire. Maybe someone here has a picture to illustrate. Pre-lubed patches are fine. use them up if you have them. Then move to making your own and lube as needed.
 
In case you don't have a manual for your pistol here is one I downloaded a while back., I have a CVA .50 cal. Kentucky pistol. The manual is for a rifle but all info should be the same except amount of charge to use and there is a chart in the manual. Hope this helps;
Thank you. All I got was a one sheet showing how it is assembled. This manual is very useful.
 
The mention about gun cleaning kits comes down to this. Sectioned rods, not a good idea. Brushes that are coupled to the threaded shank via a pressed collar are prone to coming apart at the bottom of your barrel. You want the style that is connected via twisted wire. Maybe someone here has a picture to illustrate. Pre-lubed patches are fine. use them up if you have them. Then move to making your own and lube as needed.

Yep, noticed the pre-lubed were starting to dry out a little after long storage periods. Currently in the process of using up pre-lubed patches, switching over to pillow ticking I lube myself.
Was checking out the price of pillow ticking online, some prices weren't bad for small quantities of material. I was looking for a needle in the wife's sewing stuff and saw a bundle of pillow ticking, about two yards worth.......got enough patches to last me a life time. All it will cost for patches in the future is the price of a few tubes of Bore Butter.
 
The gun uses #11 patches.

I think you meant caps. :)

For patches i would choose .010-.015 thick cotton patching, pillow ticking or drill with the thinner being easier to load considering it's a pistol.

Lubricate the patch with light oil or something like Crisco if you don't have some other patch lubricant.

I'm still a fan of spit lube. seems many people overlook it for target shooting or plinking.
 
i have one i built from kit and it is very very nice. i put a shot gun primer nipple on it. i carry it in my pickup as a one shot self defense gun beside another for follow up shots. this is how i load it. 30 grain of powder. a 60 thousands fiber wad. 2 balls with no patch then a third ball with a patch. at close range it is accurate. it would hit harder than a 45 long colt. always goes off and im not a gun nut but i dont ever want to get in a bad place with the many bad guys that we even have out here in this rural area. when it speaks the bad guys dont want to be infront of it. other than that a patched round ball over 30 grains of powder is quite accurate with it as it would be with yours.
 
I picked one up years back at a gunshow for $15. Not a Kentucky but I believe it was the Trapper model in 45 flint. Looked like they fired it once and never cleaned it. It was still in the white. I cleaned it up and it turned out so good I almost hated to fire it. Almost. Fast forward about 20 years and I picked up a unassembled kit, in cap lock, same model. I still need to put it together though.
 
When loading, or reloading my guns the first step is to take a patch and put it in my mouth. By the time I measure the powder, pour it down the barrel, and pick up a ball, the patch is good n wet, ready to go.
 

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