Raw black English flint

[Tom A Hawk]

Anyone got leads on anyone selling modules of flint ? For Self knapping if gun flints?

Check with Craig Ratzat [email protected]

 

[robinghewitt]

Black knapped flint for building costs £790+tax per metric ton. It is a popular building material around here and has been for hundreds of years because it's all we've got

 

[Dismount]

Black knapped flint for building costs £790+tax per metric ton. It is a popular building material around here and has been for hundreds of years because it's all we've got

Would you sell and ship some black fist size nodules just asking

 

[FPDoc]

You're most welcome Jeff. Be careful of one thing though, when you start knapping flint you will be dropping all kinds of small and extremely sharp bits about. Either do that over some cement (without any hatch lines in it) so you can easily sweep up all the little sharp bits and pieces. Another option is to put down a drop cloth that you can pick up. Also use some nitrile gloves over your hand. They still give you good tactile feedback and will keep you from getting cut up. You can usually find them cheap at Harbor Freight, Walmart, etc. Same thing that mechanics use now.

Dont forget the Bandaids... a large box of Bandaids. I recommend the fabric type since they seem to last long enough for the healing to start. It is a lot of fun and a skill well worth the time spent to acquire. If I ever actually acquire it I'll post again to notify our community of the event. Perhaps I'll provide snacks as well.

 

[M. De Land]

Dont forget the Bandaids... a large box of Bandaids. I recommend the fabric type since they seem to last long enough for the healing to start. It is a lot of fun and a skill well worth the time spent to acquire. If I ever actually acquire it I'll post again to notify our community of the event. Perhaps I'll provide snacks as well.

I do a bit of kapping of arrow points and gun flint. I've found the light Kevlar gloves that glass workers use superb for flint knapping as they are light enough to feel the work and make your fingers impervious to cuts.. Oh, I'm a glazier (glass worker) by profession and so use the gloves mentioned all the time in cutting and grinding plate glass.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Dont forget the Bandaids... a large box of Bandaids. I recommend the fabric type since they seem to last long enough for the healing to start. It is a lot of fun and a skill well worth the time spent to acquire. If I ever actually acquire it I'll post again to notify our community of the event. Perhaps I'll provide snacks as well.

Had to laugh, a big box of band-aids is always a good thing to have close by whenever you are doing any type of flintknapping. The Nitrile gloves that I mentioned makes a HUGE difference in how cut up you get though and they are thin enough to still feel what you are doing. And they are cheap!

 

[Twisted_1in66]

I do a bit of kapping of arrow points and gun flint. I've found the light Kevlar gloves that glass workers use superb for flint knapping as they are light enough to feel the work and make your fingers impervious to cuts.. Oh, I'm a glazier (glass worker) by profession and so use the gloves mentioned all the time in cutting and grinding plate glass.

Those sound even better than the nitrile ones I use. How much are the kevlar gloves and do you just need one pair?

 

[bldtrailer]

yup the glove works but you still need the odd band aid (texas chert) also remember what ever flint you're using expect 80% waist

 

[M. De Land]

Those sound even better than the nitrile ones I use. How much are the kevlar gloves and do you just need one pair?

I buy them by the dozen from Pilkington Glass Co. international. I think they run about 7-8 bucks a pair.

 

[M. De Land]

yup the glove works but you still need the odd band aid (texas chert) also remember what ever flint you're using expect 80% waist View attachment 95923View attachment 95922View attachment 95921

I've never made a blade core to strike gun flints off as I don't care for the ridge left on them . I use the debatage flakes from point making for gun flints which allows the waist chert to be fashioned into gun flints. I use the 7/8s long by about 3/4s wide for pistols and SMR . The novaculite sparks good but is pretty brittle but Keokuk heat treated works really well being tougher. I much prefer the flatness of the flakes to the ridge back of core blade flints.

 

[45man]

I did a lot and went to flint ridge Ohio when a resident. Flint has to be fresh from the ground and never weathered to make things from. Water freezing in it makes it worthless.

 

[Steel Hayes]

had to oven roast it(Georgetown) before I could begin to work it.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

But where can one get those big hunks of elk antler?

Actually the big ones are moose antler. You can either go kill a moose and use the bottom of his antlers or you can buy one for about $100 to $150. They are spendy when you can find them. You only really need those for big raw nodules. You can also use a hammer-stone to bust those nodules up into spawls. Hammer-stones are typically hard rounded river rocks of various sizes.

And of course the modern tool to do the same thing is the "copper bopper". That is basically a handle with a lead-weighted copper cap on one end that has been rounded off into a hemispherical shape. Handles can be made out of plain or exotic woods, copper pipe, or Delrin. With a simple sanded wooden handle they run from about $3 for the smallest to $12 for the largest size.