Range Report Veterans Arms 1740 Long Land Brown Bess

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If you want accuracy ditch the .69 balls and go with .715 or .730 balls with a patch. I can keep almost all my shots in a 8" paper plate at 50 yards. You also have to have the same mounting point every time so practicing mounting the musket the same is the key to accurate shooting. My 2 cents for what it's worth.
 

mark_fare

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If you want accuracy ditch the .69 balls and go with .715 or .730 balls with a patch. I can keep almost all my shots in a 8" paper plate at 50 yards. You also have to have the same mounting point every time so practicing mounting the musket the same is the key to accurate shooting. My 2 cents for what it's worth.
I have a Pedersoli Bess, and after alot of load testing, I get the same 4" groups at 50 yds with .690" rb in paper cartridges as I do with .715" rb with a .015" patch. Powder charge is 120 grns of Goex 2f.
 
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Hi all,

I took my new flintlock from Veterans Arms to the range today. I put 10 rounds through the smoothbore and I learned a lot, including the fact I have to learn much more about flintlocks. I had targets out about 50 yards, standard NMLRA targets. I put 4 shots on the paper of the 10, none in the black rings.

That is not to say the musket is not accurate, the lack of accuracy was entirely me. I've been shooting for over 30 years and I'm a US Army Infantryman veteran, so I know how t shoot. However, this was the first time ever shooting a flintlock, and I could tell I was pulling up at the pan ignition. I was using .69 caliber round balls with a lubed .010 patches. 70 grains of 2FG and 3FG in the pan to prime. The first 5 shots went off well. No real issues and very little delay, but some between pan ignition and the main charge ignition. The next 5 shots got harder and harder to ignite the pan, I had a few pan ignitions without main charge ignition. I tried to swab out the barrel, but I have a .75 jag for the range rod and I couldn't get it to go all the way down the barrel. I put some moose milk on a patch and tried to swab out the barrel, but I just could not get it to go all the way down the barrel. I switched to a .58 caliber jag and used multiple patches, and I could get it down the barrel, but it didn't really clean it very well.

The other problem I had was using pre-lubed .70 - .79 caliber patches. The patches were catching on the sides of the barrel and on some shots I am sure the patch was on top of the ball, not below it. So I see I have 2 options, make paper cartridges and just put the ball and the paper down the barrel for each shot, or I can get some thicker pillow ticking, lube it and just use pillow ticking and a patch knife to cut it. Not sure which I should do, so if some of you flintlock experts can shed some light on a better way to swab a barrel and how to make a .69 round ball fit on a patch in a .75 smoothbore better, I would greatly appreciate it.

The other issue I had was the flint. Lucky for me there was someone there with a needle pick so I could get my last round fired after 8 misfires. He knapped the flint and was able to pick the hole into the powder charge and I got the 10th shot off. So I guess I need to learn how to do that. Seems like a brand new flint should last longer before it needs to be knapped. But I don't know.

That's all for now, thanks everyone. I hope that as I shoot a flintlock more, I will learn to be more accurate and I can give a better report. I love the flintlock musket that Veterans Arms made, I have to figure out how to use it better and learn more.


Scott
Blueliner67
The differing results obtained using various powder charges and patching thickness really do require experimenting. You are obviously well-schooled, and best of luck! I had 2 or 3 muskets from Veteran Arms and can recommend the guy. (I recall firing the M-14 with helmet and gas mask on at the Ft. Gordon range!)
 

toot

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do you use it on the patch, or for after cleaning up? if on patch is it not to wet, going against the powder? just courious? as I want to try it.
 
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