Ramrod for a model 1816 Springfield

[Artificer]

Wow, if it fits your original worm, then it is a 26 TPI as that was the thread size for that worm. That's great!

I used to buy those worms at the NSSA nationals when I could find them inexpensive enough. Then I re-tapped them to fit other steel rammers and particularly for repro Charleville and even Brown Bess Muskets. There was nothing on the market that was anywhere near the quality of those Original Worms! Original worms often helped me get stuck patches and other things out of bores that modern worms would not touch.

That is really super the repro rammer fits the original worm. Good for you!

Gus

 

[FlinterNick]

I have this same rod in my repro Pedersoli 1816 and I'd like it to fit just a little tighter, I may try to add a second retaining spoon.

I added a second retaining spoon in my Pedersoli Charleville; I bought a Pedersoli rammer spring from Dixie Gun Works, cut it in half and used leaf end, I made a small semi circle lug, pinned the spring to the lug and then soldered the Lug to the lower interior of the band, this provides extra upward friction. there's just enough room in the band for the spring and lug.

 

[Steve Blancard]

Yes, I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rammer. The only minor negative is that it is made in 2 pieces soldered together. I'd rather it be welded. But they claim it is strong and made to be used. Hopefully they used silver solder.

I picked up a couple of these original worms 10 years ago when they were maybe $6. They are indeed excellent.

 

[Stantheman86]

They claim "for heavy handling" so we'll see.

If it's a good solder job it ain't breaking.

Or, if it breaks under normal use, they're sending me a new one.

 

[Artificer]

When I re-soldered two piece steel rammers, I always used Silver Solder aka Silver Brazing. The "ring of brass" at the joint both showed it had been done and it was authentic to the period as they brazed with brass for much smaller items like sear tips, for example.

Gus