• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

raising pattern

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bend the barrel IF the barrel is bent.You will be able to see it thru the bore.
File the muzzle (or a slight tweak to the barrel) to get to point of aim.
Adjust the stock to the shooter by build, bend, add, etc. to adjust to point of impact for that individual.
 
Basset said:
Glad all turned out well. I think I would be more nervous doing the fileing than I was when I did the bending on my fowler barrel a few years ago. :shocked2:
I bend them too but hate doing it.
A file is easy, hardly noticeable and reversible.

B.
 
I got to thinking that, if the wad leaving the barrel just a little later on one side of the muzzle has that steering effect, or if the escaping gasses from one side do give an extra nudge in one direction, then what if your wad is just a little thicker on one side? Such as when you split a 1/2 inch wad in half to put it over the powder - the splitting is never precise.

Wouldn't that have an effect as well? What if the wad is pushed down onto the powder ever so slightly lopsided before you add shot? This could cause the pattern to move off in another direction, right? You're saying .030 or .040 is all it takes to make a difference.

Any thoughts?
 
I'm thinking it would all be worked out between the breach and the muzzle :idunno:

You might try cutting a few "angled" wads and try it out then report back. Ya just never know in this here game till ya try something and this is something I have never heard of :hmm:
 
It is certainly a variable and at one time I had some 10g wads that I would cram into a 3/4" bore.
I never did very well with those wads, they would go in all shapes!
Now you mention it that possibly could of been the reason!

B.
 
Could this description be added to the reference section of the Forum? I think it may help others who have or aquire a gun needing some correction. Thanks for considering it.
 
Cheap and easy, tape a slice of pipe insulating tube or other foam rubber to the top if the stock.

Add or remove foam thickness to raise or lower the pattern.

When you find the thickness you need, order a nice lace on leather pad or one of those cushy clear plastic stick pads by Brenelli.

I have several 19th century doubles I use for skeet shooting and all need a pad to fit my frame. :wink:
 
Grandpa Ron said:
Cheap and easy, tape a slice of pipe insulating tube or other foam rubber to the top if the stock.

Add or remove foam thickness to raise or lower the pattern.

When you find the thickness you need, order a nice lace on leather pad or one of those cushy clear plastic stick pads by Brenelli.

I have several 19th century doubles I use for skeet shooting and all need a pad to fit my frame. :wink:
The only problem with that is if there is not enough cast on the stock and then keeping the eye center can go out the window!

B.
 
Cast off or cast on is a nice touch and if you are like me you think nothing of building a jig to heat and bend the stock.

However the majority of the folks I shoot skeet with are very good shots with almost any gun or gauge you hand them.

A few have adjustable stocks but most do not and they range from short and stocky to long and lanky.

Stock fit and bringing it to mount repeatedly does make for easier round ball shooting that us to sure.
 
Britsmoothy said:
Grandpa Ron said:
Cheap and easy, tape a slice of pipe insulating tube or other foam rubber to the top if the stock.

Add or remove foam thickness to raise or lower the pattern.

When you find the thickness you need, order a nice lace on leather pad or one of those cushy clear plastic stick pads by Brenelli.

I have several 19th century doubles I use for skeet shooting and all need a pad to fit my frame. :wink:
The only problem with that is if there is not enough cast on the stock and then keeping the eye center can go out the window!

B.

True. That is why building up the comb with differing widths of moleskin with a thin layer of same on top of it is an approach I often use with students when fitting them to a gun.
 
Back
Top