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Quick question on pillow ticking trimming

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How far do you seat the PB before trimming the pillow ticking?

So for me it varies a tiny bit by caliber. With the .54s I use the ball side of my Round Handle Ball Starter (not the little nub starter) but the ball handle it's self. the curve of the round handle pushes the .54 cal ball "Just" below the crown, then I try to cut maybe 1/16th inch to at most 1/8th above the crown. with my .32 this can be too much patch above the ball so I try to load the ball even or maybe with just a hair of it above the crown, and then cut 1/16 above. Hope that helps
 
I have a simple hint, Use a wooden patched ball board, a 1X2 actually 3/4" thick works for me on a .50 rifle. load the lubed ticking patch with your favorite "Spit Patch" or whatever you use, (something that don't dry out for a while) and load the patched balls in the block sitting on a hardwood board to get them even with the bottom of your loading board and then cut the patch even with the top of the board, that will leave just a bit of the patch above the ball.

You will look neat and nicely prepared to your shooting buddies at the range or the deer camp (not that means anything, or maybe it will get you out of being the "designated camp-cook and chief bottle washer" ) !

Also, if you use disposable foam paint brushes, after it is dryed out pull the foam and plastic off the dowel (you have a 4" long 7/16" diameter dowel with a nice 3/16" and 3/4"long hole centered in one end of the dowel) and you can use the hardwood dowel to make lots of things, like a short ball starter, etc.,etc.,.
 
I have a simple hint, Use a wooden patched ball board, a 1X2 actually 3/4" thick works for me on a .50 rifle. load the lubed ticking patch with your favorite "Spit Patch" or whatever you use, (something that don't dry out for a while) and load the patched balls in the block sitting on a hardwood board to get them even with the bottom of your loading board and then cut the patch even with the top of the board, that will leave just a bit of the patch above the ball.

You will look neat and nicely prepared to your shooting buddies at the range or the deer camp (not that means anything, or maybe it will get you out of being the "designated camp-cook and chief bottle washer" ) !

Also, if you use disposable foam paint brushes, after it is dryed out pull the foam and plastic off the dowel (you have a 4" long 7/16" diameter dowel with a nice 3/16" and 3/4"long hole centered in one end of the dowel) and you can use the hardwood dowel to make lots of things, like a short ball starter, etc.,etc.,.

I NEVER YSED A SMALL BOARD WITH 4 OR 6 PREDRILLEDaperture place for pre loaded patched balls for quick loading while hunting or whatever.
If you are one of the slicker is quicker people you would probably lose a lot of that lube into the wood.
On the other hand. that System would certainly tie into my Dry Patch Lube System.
Dutch
 
So for me it varies a tiny bit by caliber. With the .54s I use the ball side of my Round Handle Ball Starter (not the little nub starter) but the ball handle it's self. the curve of the round handle pushes the .54 cal ball "Just" below the crown, then I try to cut maybe 1/16th inch to at most 1/8th above the crown. with my .32 this can be too much patch above the ball so I try to load the ball even or maybe with just a hair of it above the crown, and then cut 1/16 above. Hope that helps

The important part of the patch around the "Belt" of the ball. tight enough to stay in place during the firing process. We do NOT want any of the shooting patch to be in front of the ball which would very likely deflect the ball from its intended path.

Dutch
 
I,am new to muzzle loading . I cut at the barrel as I learned here . One of the pros at range told me that my patches were small after looking at the patch that I had just shot . He asked why I cut at the muzzle and advised me not to do it . That I should use larger patches

Any patch above the ball does nothing. Waste of material. If you chose to cut, do what 45man does. Its all you need. Ball below the muzzle end, trim, make smoke, shoot 50 to the other guys 45 :)
 
IMG_0194.JPG
If I remember right back when I loaded this 50 cal. loading block I used lubriplate waterpump grease. Typically loaded this way they ram down and shoot fine for several months.
IMG_0194.JPG
 
The important part of the patch around the "Belt" of the ball. tight enough to stay in place during the firing process. We do NOT want any of the shooting patch to be in front of the ball which would very likely deflect the ball from its intended path.

Dutch

Maybe I'm cutting a might too big a patch??? I guess I fear that too short a patch might get lopsided as I push it down the barrel. Maybe I'll do some testing this winter and see just how short I can cut my patches. I find almost all of them where I shoot, so if they start getting lopsided I will see the change in the shape of the spent patch. . . . . Thanks Dutch!
 
Sean,
Find a short piece of barrel, 3"-4", so you can actually push the patched ball throu and see how your loader works on the patches.
 
Mark, finding a short piece of barrel would be a problem in many places, just load up and practice for real. Some times we even have a hard time finding a place to practice shooting. Maybe we should just be thankful for what we have.
 
Too much patch over top the ball CAN be a big problem. I once pushed the ball too far into the muzzle before trimming the patch, and the belled, brass-tip on my steel ramrod (.58 Harpers Ferry) got into the patch material. Shoved home just fine, but the ramrod was then wedged against the bore by the surrounding patch. Could not withdraw the ramrod.

Only after marring the brass with (padded) Vise-grips, did I learn that I could have used a boot lace tightly wrapped around the rod, to pull it out. That was long before the MLF.

Richard/Grumpa
 
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