Question on inletting Kibler barrel

[sleepingbulldog]

I'm working on inletting the barrel of my Kibler Colonial, and I'm wondering where exactly it should contact the wood. Right now I have a nice even fit all around the back and both sides of the tang, but I have probably a 1/64" gap between the breech end of the barrel and the stock. I'm using inletting black and can tell the curved part of the bolster under the tang is where it's hitting. Should I continue to (carefully) remove material to move the barrel back until the breech rests flush against the stock? If so I'll probably need to extend the tang inlet a little further back, as the rear of the tang just barely kisses the rear of the inlet.

 

[Dave Marsh]

Pictures will help but I'd talk to Jim.

 

[sleepingbulldog]

Ok, looks like I answered my own question. The last little bit I scraped behind the bolster did the trick. Everything moved back far enough that I have even contact all around, including both sides of the breech.

I know I’m not saying anything that’s not common knowledge, but the quality of this kit is phenomenal. It’s ideal for a beginner like me, most parts require just a tiny bit of fitting and then it snaps together. It really gives a first time builder confidence while allowing you to see how everything fits together.

 

[The Appalachian]

For your future reference you want a precise fit of the back of the breech plug/barrel with the wood. The reason is recoil. On centerfire rifles there is a recoil lug that transfers the recoil energy to the stock.

On a muzzleloader it's supposed to be that breech plug/barrel interface. If you leave a slight gap there the back end of the tang is now what transfers recoil to the stock and you risk splitting the wood at some point.

Inlet for no gap behind the breech plug.

 

[Dutch7]

 

[Scota@4570]

The inletting is done as received. You do not need to do any significant wood removal.

I have assembled seven of them. The only thing I do is to slightly open the side flat fit if it is hard to take out of the stock. I am taking a few strokes of 120 grit paper backed by an octagon sanding block. Just take the whiskers off. I do the same with the SMR tang. If is tight and that makes a problem to disassemble without damage. I gingerly scrape the sidewall of the inlet.

IF you remove any significant material anywhere you will mess it up.

 

[Redlemur60]

Wat Appalachian sed!

 

[Crow#21957]

Word of caution from a rocky. I've built a few guns. I've always had trouble getting the breech back tight. Took a few builds to realize that lowering the barrel in place right at the almost in point the barrel moved forward maybe 1/16 in or more. I always thought the curve you mentioned was my problem which caused me to remove more wood which was wrong. What was happening was the end of the tang as it went into the mortise would push the barrel forward. Wish you all the luck.