Question about knapping flint edge in the jaws of the cock

[toot]

M. Re Land, can you show how you use a pointed copper or soft steel nail on knapping the flint? how long do they have to be?

 

[ormond tony]

I just got my lyman GPR with the sawcut square tile-like flint beveled at both ends. When I search for youtube for sharpening methods, I can't find any that sharpen these type of flints. How do you sharpen them? or should I put them in my pouch and use them for 'shims'? Thanks.

 

[Woody Morgan]

I would imagine that knapping is knapping regardless of the material whether it be flint, chert, obsidian, etc.
It all reacts the same more or less.

wm

 

[Pete G]

has any one ever used the sawn agate flints, that have two beveled edges? and are they extra hard on the frizzen?

I tried one years ago; they are manure.

 

[M. De Land]

M. Re Land, can you show how you use a pointed copper or soft steel nail on knapping the flint? how long do they have to be?

I'll either get that video compressed some how or get a still picture up of how to use the pressure flake tool as soon as I can make it happen.

 

[S.Kenton]

in the field or at the range I use the back side, edge of a knife. seems to work in a pinch.

That’s what I do, at half cock position I lightly tap the flint with the back edge of my knife.

 

[tenngun]

In the 1970s and I sharpened them to nubs with taping the edge.
They made them in eightieth century but I like knapped better,

 

[toot]

I tried one years ago; they are manure.

thank you for the reply. I will save my$.

 

[toot]

I'll either get that video compressed some how or get a still picture up of how to use the pressure flake tool as soon as I can make it happen.

thank you.

 

[toot]

That’s what I do, at half cock position I lightly tap the flint with the back edge of my knife.

glad I am not the only one who does it that way1 BTW, when I do it this way I hold either my thumb or index finger just in case of an errant spark!!!!

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I view tapping or using the heel of the frizzen as a field expedient. It works for a few shots but it is more chipping than flaking. Sharpening this way results in blunt edge profile that doesn't last very long. If repeated often enough the striking edge can become nearly round. On the other hand, pressure flaking done correctly removes tiny thin flakes precisely where they are needed and can maintain the original > striking edge and prolong the flints usable life. This is because the applied pressure is directed more inward than downward. Pressure flaking tools can be made from either antler or copper. Steel doesn't get a grip or bite on the flint and doesn't work as well

 

[Grenadier1758]

I just got my lyman GPR with the sawcut square tile-like flint beveled at both ends. When I search for youtube for sharpening methods, I can't find any that sharpen these type of flints. How do you sharpen them? or should I put them in my pouch and use them for 'shims'? Thanks.

The saw cut agate "flints" do not knap. You will need a diamond grinder for a Dremel tool (one of the few instances where a Dremel tool can be safely used for muzzle loading purposes) or a Mizzy wheel. Do a search on the forum for Mizzy wheel. Those are the type of grinder that will cut stone to sharpen a saw cut agate.

 

[French Colonial]

I have used the back edge of a knife to tap the flint and have also used a notched brass rod. I tend to do a better job with the brass rod in taking off small pieces from where I want to remove them. With the knife I knock off bigger chunks and not neccessarily where I wanted to. I can screw up a flint pretty fast with the knife if I am not careful.

 

[Rifleman1776]

has any one ever used the sawn agate flints, that have two beveled edges? and are they extra hard on the frizzen?

I used them for many years and like them. They last longer than the energizer bunny. Can be flake sharpened or ground with diamond. Downside is the German ones are prohibitively expensive.

 

[M. De Land]

I view tapping or using the heel of the frizzen as a field expedient. It works for a few shots but it is more chipping than flaking. Sharpening this way results in blunt edge profile that doesn't last very long. If repeated often enough the striking edge can become nearly round. On the other hand, pressure flaking done correctly removes tiny thin flakes precisely where they are needed and can maintain the original > striking edge and prolong the flints usable life. This is because the applied pressure is directed more inward than downward. Pressure flaking tools can be made from either antler of copper. Steel doesn't get a grip or bite on the flint and doesn't work as well

Thanks for that video. That is a good example of how to do it. The same can be done in the cock with a finger and a pop cycle stick under the flint edge.

 

[Bighorserider]

I use a very small brass hammer that is the T handle for my screw driver. Frizzen open, half cock, index finger of left hand under the flint and gently tap away.

 

[Enfield1]

I use a very small brass hammer that is the T handle for my screw driver. Frizzen open, half cock, index finger of left hand under the flint and gently tap away.

Me, too. This is actually the only way that I learned to knapp a flint. You only need a few flakes to come off and your off to shootin’ again. The large black English flints I use in my Bess last for many, many range sessions using this method.

 

[Rock Home Isle]

It can't be good for the sear to beat on the flint edge with a hammer (even a little knapping hammer), when the sear is already supporting the pressure at full cock from the mainspring. I understand that if you use just the hammer, you can relieve the spring pressure with your off hand by holding the cock back while you wail away on the flint edge. But what if you use the notched nail technique? It would take three hands to hold the cock back, hold the nail on the flint edge, and hold the hammer.

It may seem like a trivial question, but these are the types of things I worry about when I lay my head on my pillow, especially considering I broke a sear on my Hawken rifle the day before opening day of deer season last year.

I put a strip of leather over my finger and place my finger under the flint when I resharpen it while still in the jaws. I usually pressure flake the edge first, then if needed I'll tap the edge with a small "Hammer" like tool to finish any final shaping that is needed.

If I'm unable to coax a nice edge out of the flint, it gets replaced.

Its also pretty strait forward to walk around an bit and find a piece of chert or a nice flint nodule and make a new flint as needed as well. I was shooting with my dad one time, years ago and he didn't believe that I could knapp a gun flint...so for that weekend while we were rabbit hunting, if I needed a new flint I had to knapp one, I couldn't just put a new one in the cock. Made for an interesting and at times frustrating weekend. Lots of shooting though...great hunt, great memories.

But yeah, I proved my point...parents, go figure.

 

[hanshi]

I made this little tool out of a screwdriver blade I re ground and a piece of copper; works great.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Ive had two locks in the last 30 years or so.
I carry a box of flints and change them out when needed.
Then knap them when I get home, or bored.
Its just faster, and safer