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Problems with TVM fowler vent.

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Birdwatcher

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Perhaps because of the lock style I ordered (Chambers Colonial Virginia) the vent on my TVM fowler lies some distance above the pan. Also the vent hole is narrow.

vent.jpg


At present, even with picking the vent before and after every shot, and doubling the charge in the pan I am getting about a 20 - 25% flash-in-the-pan rate (primer goes off, main charge doesn't catch). Also, main charge ingnition drops way off during windy conditions.

Enlarging the vent hole has been suggested by experienced shooters.

My question is, is it possible to replace that insert with a blank, that could then be drilled closer to the pan?

Thanks,

Birdwatcher
 
A special liner with an off-center hole could be made but that is thinking too far ahead. Drill out the hole first and give it a try. With a 5/64th" hole you might find your troubles are over.
 
My question is, is it possible to replace that insert with a blank, that could then be drilled closer to the pan?

Yes you could do it that way, if it were mine I would drill it out to .067 or .070. This is much easier and will solve your flash in the pan issue.

Also from the angle of the pic it is difficult to get a fair assesment on the actual height of the vent liner.

Mine are all .070

Good Luck
 
Bird, you may want to try and drill a small countersink over the touch hole itself right between the screw driver slot . This will act as a small funnel and help funnel the burn from the pan to the touch hole as that type of touch hole liner has the hole set back and the screw driver slots may be blocking the prime just enough to make ignition of the main charge difficult. I would try this first before boring the hole itself or removing and inserting a patch and redoing the liner. Just my 2 cents good luck and let us know the out come. :hatsoff: Ed
 
Personally, I like a vent hole an eyelash above...flame goes up off a pan, as well as out.
A couple T/C caplocks I converted to Flintlocks ended up with vent higher than normal and ignition was outstanding.
(they also had the new design larger .070" hole with coned outer face)

And I agree that the vent hole is too tiny...if it was me I'd at least run a #50 drill through it which is .070"...then if I had to I'd go the final step to the large 5/64" hole.
 
Yes, it does look high and the hole is small.
As others have suggested, first, just try drilling the hole to a larger size. If that works all is well. If it isn't I would go with a blank plug/liner and drill the hole lower to the pan.
What has TVM said about this?
 
Here's a close-up of the vents I use in barrels I send to TVM for my builds.
1/4"x28 vent liner, huge cone inside and out with a .030" steel wall having a large .070" hole.


07181150calDickertDeerLoad50yds-1.jpg
 
It looks to me like the tang is proud of the stock and not fully seated. If that is the case then once fully seated it would lower the touch hole 1/16th or more to bring to almost correct position.
 
Linc said:
It looks to me like the tang is proud of the stock and not fully seated. If that is the case then once fully seated it would lower the touch hole 1/16th or more to bring to almost correct position.
+1 on lowering the tang. Is that the way it came from TVM?
 
I would open the hole first and see what you get.
It's put in too high.

Have you had the barrel out and not screwed her back or is the tang not let down like that from the shop? Wood screw or bolt to the trigger plate?

PS

I see when you took your new gun back to have the lock corrected it was just let it in leaving the lock panel sitting high.

Is the scrape on the wood behind the cock a result of seating the lock where it should have originally been?
 
Linc said:
It looks to me like the tang is proud of the stock and not fully seated. If that is the case then once fully seated it would lower the touch hole 1/16th or more to bring to almost correct position.

Very astute observation. Yes, absolutely, get barrel/tang lowered as in inlet properly. That will bring the touchy hole down to where it belongs. Send to TVM for the fix-it.
 
I've seen some with a double flash hole--drill one just below the high one-- :idunno:
 
And it looks like your flint has hit the barrel too . . .

What's that hole in the stock just above the front of the trigger guard?
 
Roundball, I am looking at changing the Liner on my Haines Rifle.

What brand is the one that you have pictured above? Is it an RMC or other?
 
Llewlnman said:
Roundball, I am looking at changing the Liner on my Haines Rifle.

What brand is the one that you have pictured above? Is it an RMC or other?

I don't know who actually manufacturers it...but it first hit the scene back in the late 90's as part of T/C's Flintlock improvement efforts, so of course T/C has them.
Now, in the past couple years I've seen them carried at a couple different BP supply houses.

Used to be that the white lightning liner was the only game in town and there were no drop-ins for the 1/4"x28 market, but that's no longer the case...and these are extremely fast.

Note: if its important to you this new style improved 1/4"x28 liner does not have a screwdriver slot, it is designed with a large hex-well opening on the front which also serves as a large cone.

PS:
The outer edge of the opening has a slight bevel to funnel more heat/flame into the hex well, and the bottom of the well has another bevel to further funnel/compress heat/flame another step into the large .070" hole in the .030" stainless steel wall.
 
So long as the frizzen covers the vent when closed the vent is not "too high".
 
it looks to me like that big chuck of lead you are using to hold your rock is hitting the barrel and also covering the burning priming to keep the flash from coming up to the flash hole.
 
Replace that historically incorrect touch hole liner. Nothing worse then a liner with a slot or hex hole in it. Go with the "White Lightning". You don't need to pull out your touch hole liner anyway. Good luck..
 
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