Problems with Flint & Steel

[Tom A Hawk]

That’s great! But I’ll let your Son stay the fire bow champ, I’m wore out.

Yes indeed. Now that you understand the basics why not expand your horizons. If you can bow for twenty seconds you can make fire.

 

[TDM]

3rd hit. That's better than I did.

I give credit to file steel. I started messing around with this several years ago with the cheap stuff and just got frustrated every time I tried. Even the better steel I got from Track does nothing compared to the sparks the file steel throws. I’m happy now!

 

[TDM]

Yes indeed. Now that you understand the basics why not expand your horizons. If you can bow for twenty seconds you can make fire.

Thanks, but no thanks.

 

[Trapper Scott]

I give credit to file steel. I started messing around with this several years ago with the cheap stuff and just got frustrated every time I tried. Even the better steel I got from Track does nothing compared to the sparks the file steel throws. I’m happy now!

I have a couple of old files I was saving to make a few knives, so I may save a piece or two for a fire-starting kit.

 

[TDM]

I have a couple of old files I was saving to make a few knives, so I may save a piece or two for a fire-starting kit.

It didn’t take but 3 or 4 minutes tops to make mine. I found it in my tool chest, had been sitting there for years with the handle tip broken off. And it’s old steel, made in the USA. Just soak it in water often while your re shaping it.

 

[pab1]

I plug the vent hole because the science behind this demands the absence of oxygen for a final product. During cooking the oxygen level is diminishing having only what was available inside when it was started, and finishing with an extremely low if not absent content of 02. Without this condition we simply burn the cloth up and are left with ash.
When you call it done the heat source is removed and the container cools. As it cools air is drawn back inside if there is a path for it to go, air contains oxygen obviously. If, IF IF, your char cloth is still hot enough when oxygen is introduced back to it, it can ignite and wreck all you've done by either burning up into ash or continuing until it's hard black and crispy.
That's all just basic physics and to me it's really no trouble to cover or plug the vent hole to ensure my char cloth stops where I want it to. I've seen some guys simply turn their container over in campfire ash with their vent now on the bottom and "sealed" with the ash.

I can't begin to guess how many batches of char cloth I've made over the years and never plugged the hole. A small hole (small being the key) is not going to allow enough oxygen in to make a difference. A large hole might and opening the tin while the char is still hot will definitely ignite it. Early on I remember opening the tin once too soon. The cloth ignited and I instantly closed the tin. The cloth went out and still worked fine. If I hadn't put the lid back on immediately it would have ruined the batch.

Well, I FINALLY did it ! I was a little more methodical this time. I made my nest with shredded cedar bark, shredded jute, and a little cotton dryer lint for good measure. I raked up a mound of some leaves and pine straw and made hollow to place the nest once it was burning.
And I put the nest on top of a heavy welding glove.
I caught a spark on the 3rd hit !!!
Took about 10 good blows to get the nest burning.
Walked over and put the burning nest in the leaf mound and the fire spread very quickly!!!

Congratulations @TDM!

 

[pab1]

As others have mentioned, a quality striker makes a big difference. A sharp edge on the flint is also important. I enjoy collecting strikers.

I've added a few strikers to my collection since this pic but here are some of my favorites.

I picked up this titanium striker earlier this year. From what I've read, sparks are around 2500°F with a steel striker and 3200°F with titanium. This allows it to light some un-charred natural materials that a steel striker often won't. You can see a difference in the smoldering "sparks" it throws. It doesn't throw sparks as easily as a steel striker though.

 

[TDM]

As others have mentioned, a quality striker makes a big difference. A sharp edge on the flint is also important. I enjoy collecting strikers.

I've added a few strikers to my collection since this pic but here are some of my favorites.
View attachment 168807


I picked up this titanium striker earlier this year. From what I've read, sparks are around 2500°F with a steel striker and 3200°F with titanium. This allows it to light some un-charred natural materials that a steel striker often won't. You can see a difference in the smoldering "sparks" it throws. It doesn't throw sparks as easily as a steel striker though.
View attachment 168808

That’s a very nice collection! The next time I get my forge fired up I’m going to try and re-harden my two store bought steels. I think I remember already trying to harden the junk one, but I’ll try it again anyway. I think it’s just a very low carbon steel.

 

[The Appalachian]

If I hadn't put the lid back on immediately it would have ruined the batch.

Thus why I follow the laws of physics and plug the hole.

I really don't think anyone loses any points either way.......

 

[Iche]

Now I admit I’m moving slow on this, but I’ve got 4 or 5 other projects I’m tinkering with. This morning I took the broken file I had, put it in the vise and broke a little more off. Used a grinder to smooth the top and bottom and round the back. Dipping it in water to keep cool, then used the belt sander to remove the ridges from the striking surface. Man alive, that little broken file will through some sparks. You can see the 2 store bought steels I have. The one on the right was in a cheap kit that included some char I now know is worthless, the whole kit is junk. The smaller steel I bought from TotW. It throws sparks and I might have been successful with good char and the right nest. But the file throws much better! I found the natural denim I bought and I have some new terry cloth hand towels to make new char with. I have a metal can with a tight fitting lid, already have the hole in the top. Next fire I start I’ll try making some new char.

This is twice now that I have seen a striker made for an old file, and I couldn't take it any longer LOL
. Went out to the shop, found a worn out file and made my own. Guys, if you "ain't got" one of these, you "ain't got" a striker! Made me get serious about flint and steel again!

 

[davec2]

This is an old post of mine about making a quasi-water proof "fire kit" Because I fell in a creek......

Near the end I mention making char cloth (or rope) in the field without a can or closed container. This is done by placing cloth, tow, rope, etc., in a ladle or skillet. Cover with dirt or, better yet, sand and place it right on the coals of a hot fire. If there is no ladle or skillet, place the cloth on the ground, cover with dirt or sand, and build a hot fire on top of the pile. Don't disturb it until cold and then recover the charred material.

 

[waksupi]

that's why i carry my bic in my pants pocket right next to the boys. keeps it working.

My boys must be too cold! Wool pants don't make it to keep a lighter warm enough

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Thanks, but no thanks.

The bow drill is really easier than most folks have been lead to believe. Success depends partly on chosen materials, partly on design of components and partly on technique. All three aspects must be satisfied and failure in any one of the three means no fire today. Understand and accomplish the three and its not a big deal.

 

[deerstalkert]

even at -30f if slid inside a glove or mitten, a bic"s butane will gas enough to burn.
but that isn't what this thread is about so char and flint and steel with cattail fluff is my PC go to.

 

[Trapper Scott]

The bow drill is really easier than most folks have been lead to believe. Success depends partly on chosen materials, partly on design of components and partly on technique. All three aspects must be satisfied and failure in any one of the three means no fire today. Understand and accomplish the three and its not a big deal.

I cut out a broken limb from one of my plumb trees in the yard and plan on trying to make one.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I cut out a broken limb from one of my plumb trees in the yard and plan on trying to make one.

Good for you. I have not tried plumb, but if it passes the thumb nail test it may be possible.

 

[Trapper Scott]

Good for you. I have not tried plumb, but if it passes the thumb nail test it may be possible.

Ok, I'll bite. What is the thumbnail test?

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Suitable woods for friction fire tend to be on the softer side. If you can dent it with your thumbnail, it may be a good choice. The second test is powder feel. If the powder generated by drilling feels soft and velvety, you are on the right path. It is feels hard and granular, better try again.

 

[Trapper Scott]

Suitable woods for friction fire tend to be on the softer side. If you can dent it with your thumbnail, it may be a good choice. The second test is powder feel. If the powder generated by drilling feels soft and velvety, you are on the right path. It is feels hard and granular, better try again.

That's why your the expert. I'll check it tomorrow but I think the plumb wood is a little on the hard, dense side.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

By my count it was 20 seconds to coal formation. If you want to know more - just ask.
Made this video in June...and I'll be 69 next month.