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Priming Powder Issue

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TomW

32 Cal
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Probably a newbie issue, but haven't seen it discussed. I had a new rifle at the range trying to sight it in. I was using 4f to prime with. I was getting slow ignition. After each shot I looked in pan and it looked like black tar. After a few shots I quit thinking it was a problem with the 4f, which I had never used before or the brand of powder. Later reading tells me that black powder will absorb moisture quickly on a very humid day. Although I fired within minutes of priming. SO my question is there anything I can do to minimize the problem. Go to a coarser grain of powder. I want to use the rifle for hunting season, so I'm concerned. Any ideas are welcome
 
If I have this right, 4f isn't typically coated (with graphite), but larger granulations are. That apparently slows the hydroscopic properties of the larger granulations a bit, but 4f will absorb moisture. I prime with the same 2F I use to shoot. Plans are the same for my .40, prime and shoot with 3f.
 
Probably a newbie issue, but haven't seen it discussed. I had a new rifle at the range trying to sight it in. I was using 4f to prime with. I was getting slow ignition. After each shot I looked in pan and it looked like black tar. After a few shots I quit thinking it was a problem with the 4f, which I had never used before or the brand of powder. Later reading tells me that black powder will absorb moisture quickly on a very humid day. Although I fired within minutes of priming. SO my question is there anything I can do to minimize the problem. Go to a coarser grain of powder. I want to use the rifle for hunting season, so I'm concerned. Any ideas are welcome
It does sound as if the pan was igniting, but the firing of the main charge was delayed. Yes, black powder fouling will draw the moisture out of the air on a humid day.

First question: What brand of rifle or what type of breech does it have?

Second Question: What did you do to clean your new rifle before going to the range? Did you get all the oil and greasy protectant out of the bore?

Third Question: You are using real black powder? What brand for the pan and what brand for the charge?

It sounds as if there was oil, grease or other liquid left in the barrel at the breech that is fouling your powder. Clean the rifle thoroughly with rubbing alcohol too get rid of any greases or oils left at the breech. Use a tiny brush such as a dental flossing brush to clean the touch hole.

The other possibility is that you were using one of the substitute black powders for the main charge. The substitute powders are notorious for causing sow ignition. Black powder only for flintlock rifles.
 
Clean it really good and makes sure NO oil residue is left before shooting. I run a 99% alcohol patch down the bore followed by a dry patch before I take it out to shoot. Also, are you picking the touch hole after each shot ? Are you covering the touch hole with the 4F ? This can cause a slow "fuse" effect.
 
I am using Swiss 3f and Swiss 4f for priming in a newly built Kibler Colonial. Can't guarantee how clean it was, but after first shot I cleaned itwell between shots. David58 may have the answer about 4f not being coated and drawing moisture. I have cleaned the rifle thoroughly and will back off to 3f and see what happens, I am looking for fastest ignition possible. So I'll go with minimal powder in the pan. Thanks for all thee comments
 
I use a British warrant pan charger and 4f. It lays the correct amount, and a dry wipe afterwards does the trick.
Wondering if the powder is contaminated.
 
I am using Swiss 3f and Swiss 4f for priming in a newly built Kibler Colonial. Can't guarantee how clean it was, but after first shot I cleaned itwell between shots. David58 may have the answer about 4f not being coated and drawing moisture. I have cleaned the rifle thoroughly and will back off to 3f and see what happens, I am looking for fastest ignition possible. So I'll go with minimal powder in the pan. Thanks for all thee comments
Please tell us every step of your "cleaning it well between shots" process. Being a Kibler Colonial rifle, I believe that you have a traditional breech

You are using excellent powder. My concern is about how wet the cleaning patches are. Wet patches can leave a lot of moisture at the breech. At the range, there isn't enough time for the 4f priming powder to draw moisture from the air. Either the fouling is drawing a lot of moisture from some very humid air, or it is being introduced by some very wet cleaning patches.

Is your drying patch reaching all the way to the breech face? Maybe the vent liner is too long. The vent liner could be stopping the dry patch while moisture accumulates at the breech. Use the 91% rubbing alcohol to wipe between shots. That evaporates very quickly and dries out the moisture from the humidity.

Be very well aware that your senses are heightened when shooting a flintlock. I feel that there is a delay when I shoot, but when someone else shoots my rifle, there is no delay.
 
I experienced the same issue last week. It wasn't really hot but very humid.
I load and prime with 3f because that's what I have.
Wiping the pan, frizzen, flint and touch hole after each shot is a good idea as mentioned above.
 
I used some fairly damp patches which had windex on them and then 2-3 dry patches. then wiped the pan. I thinking maybe when hunting season gets here I'l have to check frequently and dump and reprime as necessary
 
On humid days Wipe & Pick after every shot, and after priming give the rifle a gentle side fist bump opposite the lock on the lock plate to move the priming charge away from the touch hole. Humidity gums up every thing.
 
One other thing not mentioned that can be exacerbated by humidity is how the powder lays in the pan. Tests have been done to determine what works best, full above the touch hole, banked away, banked against, or full to just below.

Past that, on a humid day, wipe the frizzen and pan with alcohol swabs and clear the touch hole often.
 
Later reading tells me that black powder will absorb moisture quickly on a very humid day.
Yes and no,,, mostly no.
Black powder out of the bottle isn't all that hydroscopic (spelling?), so there is your 1st no.
4f is generally not coated like 3f and 2f so there is a partial yes. But still unlikely to absorb atmospheric moisture if just loading and shooting,, more no.
However,,,,, burnt black powder, residue, is very hydroscopic. It is what creates that mud and tar and rusts guns, the other part of your yes.
The problem likely isn't the 4f priming power you're putting in the pan. It could very well be the left over residue of the last shot/shots, maybe combined with the 4f. If the residue is collecting moisture and turning to wet tar, it will effect the 4f and could effect 3f or 2f given enough time, and will likely keep getting worse.

As others have said, try some 3f,,,, or whatever your main charge is using as long as it is real black powder. And, try wiping your pan with 90% rubbing alcohol between shots (the sooner the better really). I carry some of the little "prep" wipes for giving injections/drawing blood with me when hunting, I have a bottle of isopropyl in my shooting bag for the range. I also swab the pan with the stuff before priming my 1st shot.
 
I wipe the pan between shots, run my vent pick in and out, and fill my priming horn with a mixture of 3f and 4f. Very few failures to fire.
 
You mentioned you fired within minutes of priming. If you are shooting at a range, prime when you are ready to shoot and then shoot to minimize moisture impact. No reason to wait minutes to shoot? For hunting, you might consider not priming until you are ready to shoot or expect to see your quarry. Gives you some appreciation for those who made their living and defended their lives with flintlocks.
 

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