Primer Compound -- getting it to stick

[Nuthatch]

I purchased a kit for making primers. They work pretty well but not quite as reliable for hunting. Part of the issue is that the mixed powder doesn't harden well enough to stay put in the cap. After rolling around in a tin for a while, I end up with a number of caps that are empty with a fair amount of powder sitting in the floor of the tin. I followed the directions as well as I could figure. After I mix the ingredients, I fill each cap and add a drop of acetone. Then, as it's drying I use the flat-end of a bamboo skewer to tamp down the sludge against the back of the cap. Then I wait a day before putting them away.

What other ways are there to get the priming compound to stick in the cap? I saw somebody mention something about using hairspray or tissue paper. Superglue sounded good in theory but I recall that there are some odd chemical reactions that can happen with superglue so I'm balking at that one. I'm curious about what other people have used that has worked well for them.

 

[Sparkitoff]

I use a drop of acetone and a drop of Duco cement and I don’t really tamp it down much

 

[wzroberts]

Good question- I'm interested in making some of my own musket caps.

Has anyone ever tried spraying just a touch of rattle can primer for metal? Of course, any acetone would probably ruin the spray primer.

I can see this going south fast: "No, I'm not asking what primer you use, I just want to know what primer you use on your primer!"

 

[Nuthatch]

Good question- I'm interested in making some of my own musket caps.

Has anyone ever tried spraying just a touch of rattle can primer for metal? Of course, any acetone would probably ruin the spray primer.

I can see this going south fast: "No, I'm not asking what primer you use, I just want to know what primer you use on your primer!"

Yea, I see your point there. In this case, I really am just looking to seal the priming compound in the cap, not instructions on how to make the compound itself. That part is fine. And we should definitely leave that for people to figure out on their own.

 

[appalichian hunter]

Lite spray of cheap womens hair spray.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

Yes that will work but isn't the best. Two or three drops of Duco cement in a tablespoon of acetone is very popular right now. Lately I have been using two drops of Elmer's school glue in a tablespoon of water. Sounds too simple but I'm here to say it works. For either a matchstick as a dip stick will work or for more of a drop a pipe cleaner dipped will also work . So now you have three ways to bind the powders. There are more you can use.Maybe later we can get into it.

 

[Winchester97]

Duco and acetone works great. Seems pretty darn durable, as close to 100% reliability as well.

 

[toot]

I use a drop of acetone and a drop of Duco cement and I don’t really tamp it down much

DUCO CEMENT. doesn't degrade it?

 

[n.h.schmidt]

That does seem too thick to me. When it comes to binders you want the least amt. that can do the job A few shellac flakes in denatured alcohol is one of my old standbys. Fingernail polish much thinned is reputed to work .

 

[user 48702]

I've never made any caps, but the older Remington caps were made like the old vintage caps, sealed with a thin foil cover. If you wanted to waterproof them even more after compressing the protective thin foil cover in place, just use a fine art brush with a thin solution of water-glass (sodium silicate). Water-glass is what they use/used for gluing/sealing in making paper cartridges and some still do today. I've opened new tins in the past where one or two of the foils had fallen out of the Remington caps, but they still went bang. It doesn't appear that Remington used any sealant to retain the foil, it is just pressed in place. You can easily remove the foil with a needle. Here's a photo showing the old Remington foil caps compared to the newer ones where the composition is exposed.

 

[Sparkitoff]

One drop of Duco in a tablespoon of acetone

 

[44Bro]

DUCO CEMENT. doesn't degrade it?

DUCO cement is primarily nitro-cellulose.(di-nitro I believe) Doesn't degrade it, and might give the caps a tad more fuel.

 

[gunnyr]

I purchased a kit for making primers. They work pretty well but not quite as reliable for hunting. Part of the issue is that the mixed powder doesn't harden well enough to stay put in the cap. After rolling around in a tin for a while, I end up with a number of caps that are empty with a fair amount of powder sitting in the floor of the tin. I followed the directions as well as I could figure. After I mix the ingredients, I fill each cap and add a drop of acetone. Then, as it's drying I use the flat-end of a bamboo skewer to tamp down the sludge against the back of the cap. Then I wait a day before putting them away.

What other ways are there to get the priming compound to stick in the cap? I saw somebody mention something about using hairspray or tissue paper. Superglue sounded good in theory but I recall that there are some odd chemical reactions that can happen with superglue so I'm balking at that one. I'm curious about what other people have used that has worked well for them.

I do as you mentioned in your post. But as a last item I do is add a drop of clear finger nail polish.
I' ve had the same problem too , mixture in bottom of my containers, borrowed the SGTMAj 's
(wife) nail polish late one night. It seems to work, instead of multiple empty caps now I find one
or two, that I can live with. For range work I use the made caps. For hunting I use bought caps. Some days you have to hunt hard and I don't want to fail because of faulty caps
gunnyr

 

[deerstalkert]

One drop of Duco in a tablespoon of acetone

and a glass eye dropper. have all your caps charged and lined up. the acetone evaporates FAST so you need to move fast.
another thing when using aluminum cans. the outside of the can has a coating that isn't your friend. duco and acetone is the only way i have found to keep the charge in the cup with the outside of the can as the inside of the cup.

 

[toot]

DUCO cement is primarily nitro-cellulose.(di-nitro I believe) Doesn't degrade it, and might give the caps a tad more fuel.

that is good to know?!

 

[CyrusP]

I have a #11 cap maker and priming compound on the way (no tracking info yet almost a week later. I am patient but excited) and this thread has me wondering if some kind of setup similar to how unmentionable primers are stored might help. Keep them more stable and not bouncing around as much.

 

[Dark Wolf]

I have a #11 cap maker and priming compound on the way (no tracking info yet almost a week later. I am patient but excited) and this thread has me wondering if some kind of setup similar to how unmentionable primers are stored might help. Keep them more stable and not bouncing around as much.

I ordered a #11 on Oct. 28. They are behind, but I hope mine ships soon.

DW

 

[William Lincoln]

We just hope cheap quality caps return- Happy Thanksgiving America!

 

[golden sky]

has anyone tried using copper or brass shim stock instead of aluminum can material for cap? whats the best thickness?

what about Japanese beer cans those things are twice as thick as the standard beer cans?

 

[deerstalkert]

I have a #11 cap maker and priming compound on the way (no tracking info yet almost a week later. I am patient but excited) and this thread has me wondering if some kind of setup similar to how unmentionable primers are stored might help. Keep them more stable and not bouncing around as much.

i had some teflon cutting bords laying about that i cut into squares and drilled to hold my caps. handy while charging with the priming material also.

has anyone tried using copper or brass shim stock instead of aluminum can material for cap? whats the best thickness?

what about Japanese beer cans those things are twice as thick as the standard beer cans?

i use copper shem stock sometimes. it is harder to punch and index for the next cup as it leaves a ring on the down side of the hole.
never used Jap Cans, except to drive