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Powder horn stopper.

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Because, if you do happen to get a spark in your powder, a glued plug turns the horn into more of a grenade rather than the plug blowing out (when pinned and sealed with beeswax).
Thank you. That would not have occurred to me.
 
Use beeswax to fill in any unwanted gaps in the base plug... and pin with small nails. I never glue or epoxy your base plug as others have stated, it can cause a grenade like effect. I’ve not experienced this first hand, but it makes sense
 
E6860226-534A-483E-9E5B-1304AD762209.jpeg 66071F76-0F8F-4B66-8423-41443E1756AD.jpeg 44418187-1A65-428F-8107-9FA03D6AEEB6.jpeg I buy those small wooden drawer knobs at Walmart. I then glue in a small wooden dowel and cut to length. Then I drill hole and stain. The wooden dowels I use are old flag poles off of small American flags that I’m retiring. The dowels are very soft wood and compresses perfectly for an air tight fit!

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
Utter Nonsense, a natural horn powder horn would not the strength to contain pressure from the burning powder to burst like a grenade the horn would just split (even a metal flask would just split) there would muffle woof and be a the fireball would be spectacular. The idea that the area of the filling plug hole could vent burning BP pressure fast enough to avoid spliting the horn is more nonsense.
 
Utter Nonsense, a natural horn powder horn would not the strength to contain pressure from the burning powder to burst like a grenade the horn would just split (even a metal flask would just split) there would muffle woof and be a the fireball would be spectacular. The idea that the area of the filling plug hole could vent burning BP pressure fast enough to avoid spliting the horn is more nonsense.
Might be something worth testing out. Remember that a firecracker is just flash powder contained in a thick paper tube. Better to err on the side of caution they say.
 
Utter Nonsense, a natural horn powder horn would not the strength to contain pressure from the burning powder to burst like a grenade the horn would just split (even a metal flask would just split) there would muffle woof and be a the fireball would be spectacular. The idea that the area of the filling plug hole could vent burning BP pressure fast enough to avoid spliting the horn is more nonsense.
The horn isn't retaining the pressure, rather allowing it to reach higher levels BEFORE the horn bursts, making the resultant horn shrapnel travel at greater velocity with a potential to cause greater damage. Pinned but not glued plugs serve as over-pressure valves - it allows a more controlled release of pressure rather than an explosion. I would propose a mental experiment with something nearly everyone has experienced - take the amount of powder contained in a M-80 firework and light it to observe the result. Then take the same amount of powder and pack it into a thin-walled paper/cardboard tube and ignite the powder. Which is more destructive? The first will flash while the second explodes (nasty burn vs. missing fingers)....
 
Might be something worth testing out. Remember that a firecracker is just flash powder contained in a thick paper tube. Better to err on the side of caution they say.

Flash powder has a faster detonation rate than black powder. It will self confine with just atmospheric pressure in quantities above 30grams. It’s that fast.

I epoxy my base plugs. I’m working a new horn now and should have it finished up today actually and I have been thinking about this subject but my bigger concern was the damned latteral hair line split I discovered mid-horn. Doesntbrun tye full length of the horn but just two inches and it was hardly noticeable and I could not sand it out so I scraped it open a little and filled with epoxy, sanded and buffed.
 
The horn isn't retaining the pressure, rather allowing it to reach higher levels BEFORE the horn bursts, making the resultant horn shrapnel travel at greater velocity with a potential to cause greater damage. Pinned but not glued plugs serve as over-pressure valves - it allows a more controlled release of pressure rather than an explosion. I would propose a mental experiment with something nearly everyone has experienced - take the amount of powder contained in a M-80 firework and light it to observe the result. Then take the same amount of powder and pack it into a thin-walled paper/cardboard tube and ignite the powder. Which is more destructive? The first will flash while the second explodes (nasty burn vs. missing fingers)....

A standard real M80 contains 3 grams of flash powder. M80s were a munitions simulator for military training. The charge in them is enough to remove most of your hand. The comparison between black powder and pyrotechnic flash powder isn’t equal. While BP is an explosive, is is no where near as vigorous as contained flash powder. And as I mentioned above. FP doesn’t need a container to detonate in quantities above 30grams. That’s how fast it is.
 
I wanted to add that I use a walnut dowel rod that I have and taper it to match a reamer I have. I like soak it in some danish oil. This is one i made for the horn I am working now.
 

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A standard real M80 contains 3 grams of flash powder. M80s were a munitions simulator for military training. The charge in them is enough to remove most of your hand. The comparison between black powder and pyrotechnic flash powder isn’t equal. While BP is an explosive, is is no where near as vigorous as contained flash powder. And as I mentioned above. FP doesn’t need a container to detonate in quantities above 30grams. That’s how fast it is.
The concept of pressure doesn't change. Epoxy joints won't fail as easily as simple wooden pins and beeswax, allowing the pressure to build higher before failure, resulting in greater damage...
 
I wanted to add that I use a walnut dowel rod that I have and taper it to match a reamer I have. I like soak it in some danish oil. This is one i made for the horn I am working now.

That is a pretty stopper. But, remember one of the first rules of ml life: 'the prettier your powder horn stopper, the sooner it will fall out and spill yer powder'. DAMHIK ;-)
 
That is a pretty stopper. But, remember one of the first rules of ml life: 'the prettier your powder horn stopper, the sooner it will fall out and spill yer powder'. DAMHIK ;-)

Lol. So far it fits really well. Let’s hope it stays that way!
 
It seems to me that the no-epoxy rule is based on two beliefs: 1) that the pins holding the plug in will shear or the wood itself will fail before the horn gives way, and 2) that the horn will fragment instead of just splitting in one place. It seems to me that there are an awful lot of variables - what type of wood is used in the plug, the kind of pins and how many, the thickness of the horn, and the brittleness of the individual horn itself. Then there is the difference in grain size of the powder itself...

I'd kind of like to see some side to side testing of horns with pinned and horns with epoxied plugs. Anyone ever done that? I've always considered the "no-epoxy" rule to be a rather dubious bit of folklore, but I'm willing to be persuaded otherwise.

I've never used epoxy in my horns, not because of safety concerns but because it isn't PC and isn't necessary if the plug is made properly. I don't think I've even needed beeswax after my first horn and that one rum horn that expanded weirdly when I heated it...
 
I'm a no modern materials guy as you, pins and beeswax only. I personally have first hand experience of seeing what exactly will happen if a horn is sealed tighter than a popcorn fart. Individual landed a medical evacuation via the aerial meat wagon. Thankfully his leg was saved, but not after the expense of multiple surgical procedures and countless hours of therapy.

Image is that of a properly fitting base plug, coupled with wooden pins likely didn't even need beeswax.
 

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I find all of this highly entertaining and intend to blow up a horn at the first possibility. I can serve as your worse possible situation.

Medium size buffalo horn holds 3/4 Lb of fff, Epoxied base plug with 6 tiny brass screws, an epoxied on oak pour nozzle with a small, long taper deer antler plug. The horn is very thin and I can hold it up to the light and see the powder level.

BTW: I press in the antler plug until it seats, then gently rotate it a little. We'll see how long it lasts before cracking. It is 1 year old at present.
 
I find all of this highly entertaining and intend to blow up a horn at the first possibility. I can serve as your worse possible situation.

Medium size buffalo horn holds 3/4 Lb of fff, Epoxied base plug with 6 tiny brass screws, an epoxied on oak pour nozzle with a small, long taper deer antler plug. The horn is very thin and I can hold it up to the light and see the powder level.

BTW: I press in the antler plug until it seats, then gently rotate it a little. We'll see how long it lasts before cracking. It is 1 year old at present.
Deer antler makes a poor plug IMHO...I've made a few and have ended up losing a couple here and there, then decided the antler didn't seal up as well as wood. So now I make em out of dowel rods..
So in your experiment, if your lucky, your deer antler plug may fall out, losing your powder before ya blow yourself up...lol
Seriously though, if you do try and blow up a horn,protect yourself, make sure any innocent bystanders are out of harms way...then post the results with pictures..;)
 
I find all of this highly entertaining and intend to blow up a horn at the first possibility. I can serve as your worse possible situation.
I hope you live somewhere that won't view this as bomb-making with all the attendant complications (visits from concerned police and other legal officials, some with firearms and no sense of humor).
 
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