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Possible Wonder Lube Problem

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Dillon:
You should check out the gun stores or the web to see if you can buy some Birchwood Casey Barricade.
I think what you are seeing is mainly some surface rusting.
Although there are many who love it, I have had rather poor luck with Ballistol when it came to protecting the clean bore from rust. In fact, after seeing how poorly it worked for me to protect the barrels I've used it in, I will never use it again for that purpose.

Barricade on the other hand is, IMO, an excellent product. Not only does it protect the steel but it drys after a few minutes so you don't even need to worry about getting it out before you load your gun the next time you use the gun.
 
Ok, don't use boiling water, I made it all up.
What I actually do is slaughter a week old chicken and sprinkle it's blood on the barrel while chanting " curse you you evil rust demon". Works a treat and proves it has nothing to do with wonder lube containing and having an ability to retain water, just enough that if not completely removed an hygroscopic agent has been left in the barrel.
Chicken blood, sprinkled, week old!
For goodness sake.....
 
Ok, don't use boiling water, I made it all up.
What I actually do is slaughter a week old chicken and sprinkle it's blood on the barrel while chanting " curse you you evil rust demon". Works a treat and proves it has nothing to do with wonder lube containing and having an ability to retain water, just enough that if not completely removed an hygroscopic agent has been left in the barrel.
Chicken blood, sprinkled, week old!
For goodness sake.....
Dangerous ground here, but have found boiling water to be cure for Wonder Lube (AKA Chapstick) buildup. Saved may ‘seasoned’ barrels that were shot out with boiling water and a bronze brush. If it doesn’t work, neighbor has chickens. Who knows?

Only real suggestion is to start with a clean bore.
 
This thread got me thinking, (fasten seat belts now).
Aerosol products like Barricade or any product for that matter, that contain propellants like propane, butane, etc. are under 90 to 100 pounds of pressure. when released, IE. spraying down the barrel, Well they get really really cold. In times of really high humidity they freeze. Frost can form on the barrel and when it eventually warms that frost melts into water. Not much of an issue for someone living in Arizona, but if you live in more tropical areas, look out.
 
As recommended to me by a friend who builds flintlocks. Try gojo hand cleaner (non pumice!) Just put a good sized dollop in the barrel and on a patch.... run patch up an down barrel a few times and let it sit 30 minutes. Clean as u normally would. It dissolves everything and rinses with water. I actually just use gojo and hot water to clean then a good oil. Works like magic. And works very well for dissolving manure on the breech face too...
 
The best patch material is diaper flannel or the wife's old PJ's. Another thing to try is make the first swabbing with plain cold water, then go to warm and soap. Don't use a slotted jag. I use the pump method but some always gets above the patch and sprays me. :eek: My flint locks are a pain as my stocks fit so tight I never remove them, have to peel them down and I fear breaking them.
There are kits of jags sold that cover from .17 up and they will have one to fit your gun. I make my own if any problems. I also make muzzle protectors for each rod.
Another good cleaner is 50-50 anti freeze and water. Simple green is good and I also like Birchwood-Casey BP cleaner.
Windex will not even clean glass.
 
That is part of the problem. It's been my experience that Ballistol will turn brown/black and it will gum up the lock when used as a lube. I use Barricade to protect the bore after cleaning.

While I agree with you whole- heartedly about Barricade. You are wrong, or misinterpreted something about Ballistol. It doesn't gum up ever. It sure won't gum up a lock. I've used it on centerfire and BP guns for years, and I have coated knife blades with it and left for 10 years plus and it looks just like when I applied it.

I have never seen or heard that it turns black until your comment.
 
Rifleman1776 and I both had problems with Ballistol gumming up the actions, so you are wrong, it does happen

Not saying you didn't experience gumming, I'm saying you must have misinterpreted something- like it got mixed with some other residual product etc. Ballistol is unique in that it is an oil and a cleaner, as such it will continue to clean what may have been thought to be a clean surface. Ballistol used on its own simply does not gum up, and it sure as heck does not turn black. It has been around over 100 years, it would never have survived that long if it did either, and it sure wouldn't have been used by the German Army (probably the best/most experienced of the day) if it did.

Similarly, the "never use petroleum products" thing with muzzleloaders- it's complete nonsense, and certainly a result of some sort of bad interpretation of what was happening- not that it didn't happen- but it's still a mantra that regularly gets repeated.
 
Ok, don't use boiling water, I made it all up.
What I actually do is slaughter a week old chicken and sprinkle it's blood on the barrel while chanting " curse you you evil rust demon". Works a treat and proves it has nothing to do with wonder lube containing and having an ability to retain water, just enough that if not completely removed an hygroscopic agent has been left in the barrel.
Chicken blood, sprinkled, week old!
For goodness sake.....
Use a goat. Bigger, stronger and lasts longer. Chickens just run around with their heads chopped off.
 
Not saying you didn't experience gumming, I'm saying you must have misinterpreted something- like it got mixed with some other residual product etc. Ballistol is unique in that it is an oil and a cleaner, as such it will continue to clean what may have been thought to be a clean surface.
I have been a gunsmith and blackpowder shooter for over 50 years. I didn't misinterpret anything and Ballistol is water soluble and does dry out over time. In both cases the firearms were stored for over six months and the Ballistol was dry. Here is the thread about that.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/ballistol-puzzlement.95400/

BTW: I'm also a blacksmith and I use Ballistol to coat items I have forged, to prevent rusting. Within several days the surface will be dry and no residue will rub off.

I just went back and reread the OP's original post and think what the problem is called flash rusting using hot water. Then when coating with Ballistol the rusting is removed but stays in the Ballistol solution. Then when running a dry patch before shooting the Ballistol stained solution shows up on the clean patch. I still won't use Ballistol for long term storage.
 
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bpd303- I really have no interest in getting involved in yet another Ballistol thread. It doesn't matter how long someones been doing something- results can still be misinterpreted- it happens to every single BP shooter- it's how everyone comes up with their various systems which seem to conflict with other peoples systems. It's no insult, it is part of the charm/quirkiness of BP shooting. As far as I can tell just about everyone on this Forum has been shooting BP in the 30 plus year range.

You said it turned black- it certainly will not. It either didn't happen, or most likely something else was going on. Look at the OP- it's use Wonder Lube for shooting, clean with hot water, for some mysterious reason then use Windex, and then Ballistol. Why? Lots of stuff going on there, and you can find just as many comments that people have been happy using Wonder Lube for 30 years, and those who say it's instant death on muzzleloaders- can't be both. Or it could if they are unknowingly mixing incompatible products.

Pedantic Point of the Day- Ballistol is actually not water soluble- it forms an emulsion and won't dry out through evaporation like soluble would. Drying and gumming up are wildly different.

I've talked to the folks at Ballistol, they are very receptive- I'm sure they would be very interested in hearing about the gumming on locks you experienced - they actually guarantee against it. Don't see how they would be in business this long if it "turned black" and randomly "gummed" up everything.

Certainly there are some more modern products for BP use- like Barricade for bore protection, or one of the high pressure high tech oils for lock use- but Ballistol still works as it always did.

Not sure about the no good for guns good for blacksmithing comment- does it add something to the process? At roughly $1.00 per ounce I would think it would be expensive for blacksmith use that's why I ask.

Anyway- best of luck to you.
 
I know this is a shock, I do not put water near my gun! boiling, warm or cold. I used to use soapy warm water like I was always told. I started with BP in the early 70s forgot about it till the 80s then took it up again. dropped it again then took it up in the early 2000s and here I am. I have been a handloader for 52 years. 10 years ago or so, I started loading BP rounds for a 44-40 I learned about cleaning my 1873 rifle with moose milk. it worked perfectly. I now have my 3rd flintlock and I use WD40 to clean the barrel and lock. it gets everything out with no residue left behind. way easer and faster than water and best of all no rust,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
it dose contain water, that is why I use WD40 now. but the moose milk did work good but it was on account of the ballistol I think not the water, the water just thinned up the oil,,,,,,,,,,
 
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