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Pipestone repairable?

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TexiKan

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I had been working on a catlinite pipe and had about three-quarters of the work done. The unfinished project was in a bag and it and some other items fell and hit the concrete floor. The pipe was the only casulity--it broke in half. It is a clean break but I am sick to see this happen after all of the initial work I put into it.

Is there any way to salvage this project? I had already cut four rings into the pipe near the end that takes the pipe stem. The break is about a 45 degree angle forward of the fourth ring cut. I thought about cutting another groove and filling it with pewter. However, I am a little concerned about the rest of the weight of the pipe at that location.

Because of the porous material, I have not determined if there is any type of acceptable glue or cement to reattach the two pieces and continue to work the stone down.

I would appreciate any insight into this.

TexiKan
 
Hey TexiKan,

I do quite a bit of soapstone, alabaster, serpentine, steatite and similar soft stone carving and YEP! they tend to snap at the most inopportune times.

2 part epoxy works well. Here's a how-to link that may help also.
http://www.dc-restoration.com/how-to.html

I just glue them back together and let it cure; then come back later with wet sanding/polishing and if the repair seam was done well it rarely shows once you remove the dried glue lines.

HTH and good luck.
Steve
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, Steve, for the info and the link. I will follow your advise and get back to finishing it. Hopefully the repaired area won't be a major factor in the finished product.

TexiKan
 
I have asked this question before without any satisfaction. I am wanting to buy enough stone to make a soapstone bullet mold. green or black would be great if I could find it. Hope someone could help me find just what I need. Thanks in advance. mudd turtle.
 
yo Mudd Turtle,

I think there's plenty to find right there in NC - my home state. On the north shores of Falls Lake down Raleigh ways is a deposit right near I-85 that the Native Americans used to quarry.

Just kidding about getting yours from there though.(it's to flakey and brittle except for bowls) You'll want some good quality stone. I buy from several sources. Stonesculptorsupply dot com is a VERY good supply house. The other is up in the Shenandoah Valley north of you. I think the website is something like black pearl soapstone in Charlottesville, VA do a search on either and you'll find what you need. The Italian Evergreen from the first site is extra smooth with nearly no inclusions and carves like hardened chalk - so smooth you wouldn't believe it. It would make a nice mold. HTH and good luck.
Steve

PS if those don't float your boat. PM me and I send you some.
 
Thanks for your reply. Maybe you could give some idea how you made your mold. I had some native American friends that came to the powwows here and they gave me a small chunk of gray to green soap stone that I carved an eagle on. It was not big enough to carve a bullet mold from. I love 17Th century reenacting and would like have a functional mold in my bag.. I was told I would have to have Cherries made in order to carve the mould. My plan was to get a suitable piece of stone cut it in half -making sure both sides were even and measure down on both sides in order to get the ball hole and sprue hole even and pour in soft lead and make my bullets. Mudd turtle.
 
Mudd Turtle,

I have yet to carve a bullet or round ball mold only lots of other things. My lack of a mill, precision drill press and a lathe would prevent me from attempting such an endeavor. Sure I could carve one and it would cast round balls just fine. But they would only be good as sling shot fodder. Getting a .490 or .495 round ball carved in soapstone by hand in one try is a tall order for my current skills and tools level. If I understand it the "cherry" would be some type of carbide burr with a thin shaft that would allow simultaneous carving or both halves while the two sides were closed around it. the mold would still need male/female grooves or pins to line up the mold the same every time. Hence not my cup of frustration tea at this point in my life. If you build one and it works I'm sure we'd all like to see it.

Steve
 

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