Pillow Ticking "Shot Cups"

[roundball]

I cut some 1 1/4 strips of olive oiled cotton cloth and tried the fit tonight.

Hard nitro card base (pushed in sideways then turned with a hand reamer I use for reloading shotshells)

Then the cotton cloth pushed in with a test tube (it held open perfect);

Slipped a Mythick mylar shield into the chamber;

Dropped two 20ga felt spacers inside;

Filled it with 1 1/4oz #5 Hevishot;

Trimmed the patch;

Placed an overshot card;

To see all those activities listed may simply make the operation appear to be more cumbersome than it is...but just being honest, trying to compare those steps to the normal wad/shot/card steps, I couldn't help but wonder how involved / inconvenient doing all those activities might be trying to build such a reload after a shot while out hunting ?

 

[majg1234]

If ya want to try some 16ga shot cups shoot me a private message with your address I've got a bunch of remy 16 cups as I reload for 16ga I'll send you a few to try :thumbsup:

 

[madcatter1]

i just wanna thank all for this topic,i am looking for a 20 gauge flinter for next seasons rabbit hunting over my beagles,been using pistols to take rabbits for years to give the bunnies a better chance,i imagine i will try these tips on shot from a smoothbore out for myself on a dragoon gun,as well as i think its time to raise my budget for a long gun.
i read the first four pages and just skipped to hear to thank folks.
as far as the preformed shot cup from ticking,i am gonna expirement on that,i am thinking maybe something like a post to rest the patch over then having another hollow tube to shove over it,then steaming it or applying a sealer or something to have it maintain its shape without collapsing while afield.kinda like a sizing die,but for cloth.interesting concept.
i am looking to get a range of 20 yards from the dragoon,so far i borrowed my buddies and all attempts have went sour http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7SzfrOhaLU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4Q8ggtN6JI

 

[drstrangelove]

The main problem I have where I pheasant hunt is it's a non-tox area. The best nontox shot to kill well at ML velocities is Hevishot; the barrels must be protected with either tick-cupped Mylar or a steel-safe 16ga wad that will fit into my tight chokes (.700/.690 = M/F). Yes, it is tedious, but I didn't find love when I tried the loose bismuth easy way out.

I tried the Mylar/ticking cup this weekend for duck-closer and got three scaup and one goose with #4 shot. Barrels are unscathed. Unfortunately I haven't figured out picture posting.

A big Thank You to all who have contributed on this tick-cup thread!

 

[BrownBear]

That's a good tip on the mylar.

Thanks!

 

[armymedic.2]

New look on an old thread. Mostly desired a swabbed bore without swabbing i made this to use the ticking strip. same as normal, pour the shot through the top and then seat cloth and shot as one.

I use equal parts hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alchohol, and murphy's so it will clean it pretty well each loading, and reduce leading. a better pattern would be a bonus.

anyway, here is my attempt to make it pretty. antler from the base of a nice 7 point i shot 2 years back (stopes it at a good depth) , and a repurposed brass 72 grain nozzle from an old powder flask i no longer use. enjoy.

 

[armymedic.2]

it is now leather tethered to the bag strap as well, before anyone thinks (my goodness hes gonna lose it in the first briar patch!

 

[BrownBear]

Oooooooh......

That's really cool! Got me just the right piece of horn that's been looking for a project. All I have to do now is get home to start it!

Thanks! :thumbsup:

 

[armymedic.2]

:thumbsup:

one hint, the inside of the antler is not hard enough to thread the brass in alone. you will need to add some modern pine pitch to it :shocked2:

 

[BrownBear]

...modern pine pitch....

Ah, my favorite!

 

[armymedic.2]

Not sure why but the shot cups jammed up pretty good halfway down the bore. They were very well lubed with my murphys alch and perox too. That normally will let anything seat. The ones i did get alll the way down the bore did tighten the group slightly but nothing crazy. The one that lodged halfway took twenty minutes to pull back out ( didnt have my worm with me). So far this is totally unsatisfactory for a field load.

Powder. Seated. A lubed fiber wad. Filled the Shot cup and seated. Then ran an overshot card.
Anyone having better luck?

 

[drstrangelove]

Tried patterning with wrapped 16ga wads... Patterns were terrible... the wad didn't open... Looked a bit compressed at the base is all... The wad didn't hold more than 7/8 oz shot either... Tried with more shot on top and it just made a donut. Best patterns were with ticking only but wouldn't hold together past 30 yards with bismuth. Will try ITX next then hevishot again. Frustrating.

 

[Black Hand]

I use brown paper (almost 2 full wraps) to wrap the LEAD shot. Twist & tie the 2 ends (think Tootsie Roll) and lube well. Load powder, card, Tootsie roll of shot (I cut the forward "tail" off) and OS card.

Might work for your applications, but I have no experience with shot substitutes, so proceed at your own risk.

 

[Black Hand]

Best patterns were with ticking only but wouldn't hold together past 30 yards with bismuth.

More than 30 Yards out of a smoothbore? Are you expecting miracles? Just asking...?

 

[drstrangelove]

I was getting no-pheasant-escape patterns at 32 yards with ticked bismuth but that was only with the full barrel... the mod barrel isn't much good past 20yds.

The full barrel was OK out to 40 yards the last time I tried it with Hevishot #4 and mylar, but it should improve with smaller shot (ie #6 HS). If I can break 1000fps, Hevishot will kill to 40yards.

I now know however that the lack of constriction of the full 12ga choke on the 16ga wad in effect patterns like a cylinder 16a shotgun. Won't try that again.