Pietta Navy Revolver Cylinder

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mkpatrick

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Hi,
I wanted to buy an additional cylinder for my Pietta Navy in 44.
It says on the barrel, Filli Pietti
How do I know which cylinder to buy for it if I'm only able to look at pictures?
I don't know specifics on what to order.

I'm hoping it will be just as accurate, I just want an extra cylinder.

Also what's a good source for this?
 

mkpatrick

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OK the pictures in the link you sent, they don't look like what's on my gun. Its just a serial number that is in front of the brass trigger guard.
P59408.
There are marks on the side of the frame in the case hardened area....
A square with a BM in it.
A symbol over a PN
and a symbol that is too small for me to read in a square.
This are all left to right on the side in the order I listed above.
I seem to remember buying this gun around 1999.
 

ZUG

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Contact VTI gun parts and talk to them. They should be able to help you.
 

Stantheman86

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Be careful, it may not work out of the box.

I bought a spare cylinder for my Pietta .36 Navy and the lockup was so sloppy it isn't safe to shoot. That cylinder is just gonna live in the box until I find a use for it
 

hawkeye2

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Given the date of yours the current cylinders may not work. I'm not up to date on Colts but I do know that Pietta made some changes to the Remington and the newer cylinders won't work in the older ones.
 

Old Hawkeye

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The PN is the Italian symbol for BP (black powder) & is a required stamping related to proofing.
 

mkpatrick

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The cylinder I have, works, it just rusted after it got left in a bath too long.
Its bare metal looking now. Nobody near me offers bluing services. I thought about ceracote on it but not sure if that would add a few thousandths of thickness to it which might cause malfunction somewhere.
If I could somehow protect it in bare metal look, I'd leave it. But I'm fighting rust.
 
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The cylinder I have, works, it just rusted after it got left in a bath too long.
Its bare metal looking now. Nobody near me offers bluing services. I thought about ceracote on it but not sure if that would add a few thousandths of thickness to it which might cause malfunction somewhere.
If I could somehow protect it in bare metal look, I'd leave it. But I'm fighting rust.
Birchwood cold blue perhaps?
 

toot

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BIRCHWOOD CASEY, also has a touch up pen now. for small touch up jobs, it looks just like a SHARPIE, and works instantly as it is applied. give it a try for the small jobs.
 

ZUG

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If you want to have it hot blued then I recommend Fogle's Gunsmithing <www.foglesgunsmithing.com> 937-335-6085. They do small jobs and at a fair price. If you want to try your hand at doing a bluing job I suggest that you try doing rust bluing but I think you will be more satisfied with the hot blue method.
 

ZUG

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Easier than what - hot bluing? If you want easy then send the part out to someone that does hot bluing. To get a good rust blue finish there is a bit of work to prep, then apply the solution, boil the part or steam it then card the rust then repeat the process 5 or more times check if you like the color if not then repeat - check - if satisfied coat with oil - done. Now you tell me which process is the easiest :dunno: :ghostly:.
 
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