thanks a lot finally got it out but still have to keep using screwdriver and hammer should I file a little of sideI assume by saying "pin" you are talking about the wedge that holds the barrel onto the rest of the gun?
Speaking of the wedge, lately there has been a few people who have had difficulty getting the wedge out. I don't know if they hired a person with a "tighter is better" frame of mind but that could be the cause.
In any case, it sounds like you didn't get a big enough hammer.
Find a good solid support that the left side of the barrel can rest on with the large end of the wedge hanging in space so it can move.
If you have a driver made from a piece of brass, bronze or aluminum or a piece of hard wood that's a bit thinner than the thickness of the wedge and place it against the exposed small end of the wedge.
It's a good idea to hold this brass/bronze/aluminum/wood with some pliers because when the wedge "breaks loose" it will move downward rapidly. If your using your fingers to hold it, you might smash your finger.
Now, using a good hammer, give the driver a stout whack. The wedge should be driven down out of the slot with one or two blows.
The wedge has a spring on it that will hang up on the little screw head on the left side of the barrel. That's why the screw is there. So you don't lose the wedge when it's loose.
Move the wedge as far out of the left side of the barrel as you can so you can remove the barrel.
Normally, the barrel won't be easy to pull off of the cylinder arbor and the frame so here's how to handle that:
Bring the hammer to the half cock position. The cylinder should rotate freely in one direction so, turn the cylinder so that a chamber is on each side of the loading ram. This will place the web between the chambers right in line with the loading ram.
Without rotating the cylinder further, unlatch the loading lever and bring it down, forcing the ram against the face of the cylinder.
Now, give it a good bump to drive the ram into the face of the cylinder and the barrel, loading lever and ram should move forward on the cylinder arbor.
Once it is free of the two pins at the bottom of the frame, it should be easy to rotate it and pull it the rest of the way off of the arbor.
When you reassemble the pistol, do NOT drive the wedge into the slot with any real pressure. Pushing it in with just finger pressure is more than enough to hold it and the barrel in.
Oh. By the way, you can use a large screw driver and the hammer to drive the wedge out but the screw driver blade is harder than the wedge so it will leave a mark.