• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Period correct knife for fur trade in western Canada 1800-1815

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 22, 2022
Messages
230
Reaction score
304
Location
Rocky Mountain House
As I live and trek right here in David Thompson Country, at the head of the North Saskatchewan river, I am setting myself up to be relatively period correct for some trekking. I will be trekking along the North Sask in areas travelled by Thompson from the time of his travel through the Howse pass, 1807. I also hunt and trek along the Brazeau river near the Southesk, and Dowling ford. This crossing is named after the earl of Southesk who travelled through there in 1859-1860. I would like to make abelt knife that would be period correct for 1800-1815 for Western Canada. THoughts?
 
Butcher pattern knives, as depicted here (although the sheath would have been more rustic than the one below):

https://www.knivesofthenorth.com/products/river-traders-lewis-and-clark-knife
Lewis & Clark ordered 40-odd like knives for their early 1800's expedition.
1675605716154.png
 
Knife shapes that work haven’t changed much since Roman times. A folding pocketknife and an English trade knife would be my go-to. Here’s my English pattern View attachment 195774trade knife. Our dog chewed the handle a bit when he was little.
That's about what I was thinking would work. Took a knife making course last spring, and am just building my forge so this will be one of my projects this summer.
 
Butcher pattern knives, as depicted here (although the sheath would have been more rustic than the one below):

https://www.knivesofthenorth.com/products/river-traders-lewis-and-clark-knife
Lewis & Clark ordered 40-odd like knives for their early 1800's expedition.
View attachment 195752

Butcher pattern knives, as depicted here (although the sheath would have been more rustic than the one below):

https://www.knivesofthenorth.com/products/river-traders-lewis-and-clark-knife
Lewis & Clark ordered 40-odd like knives for their early 1800's expedition.
View attachment 195752
Make the pins iron/steel. lose the scandi grind, give it a slight covex full grind
 
Make the pins iron/steel. lose the scandi grind, give it a slight covex full grind
So the grind more like the English trade knife? Brand new to knife making, did you mean "Convex"? Mr. Google has nothing for "Covex"? Do you think that Lewis and Clark Trader knife shape would be better than the English Trade knife shape? Can make one of each! I have access to lots of used Ferrier rasps. I have a plasma cutter so cutting the shapes is no issue.
 
So the grind more like the English trade knife? Brand new to knife making, did you mean "Convex"? Mr. Google has nothing for "Covex"? Do you think that Lewis and Clark Trader knife shape would be better than the English Trade knife shape? Can make one of each! I have access to lots of used Ferrier rasps. I have a plasma cutter so cutting the shapes is no issue.
Which, depends on you. Yeah convex 😁. I think the English scalper or common butcher would do. A sharp point is handy very often. I prefer the common French boucheron for all around use. But, I also like the English. Maybe just me, but I don't care for the L&C butcher shown because the point is too blunt for my taste. Most butchers are to blunt to me. Your milage may vary. A sharp kinda narrow point is good to separate joints on critters.
 
While a "sharp kinda narrow point" may be good for separating joints on critters, the fur trade trappers were primarily after the pelts, and weren't altogether concerned with precision disassembly of the animals joints. Sharp narrow points would be more prone to puncturing and damaging the pelt when separating the skin from the underlying connective tissues. Butcher knife blade styles lent themselves to quickly skinning animals without poking extra holes where they were not needed or wanted. Speed and efficiency would be a desirable function for a skinning knife shape.
 
Being a trapper, for skinning I actually just use a small knife on the hind legs to the vent, then the rest I just pull away with my hands. For beaver my preferred knife is like a little patch knife. I think the sharp point trade knife is what I'll make as my carry knife and I have a little Sheffield knife for skinning.
 
As I live and trek right here in David Thompson Country, at the head of the North Saskatchewan river, I am setting myself up to be relatively period correct for some trekking. I will be trekking along the North Sask in areas travelled by Thompson from the time of his travel through the Howse pass, 1807. I also hunt and trek along the Brazeau river near the Southesk, and Dowling ford. This crossing is named after the earl of Southesk who travelled through there in 1859-1860. I would like to make abelt knife that would be period correct for 1800-1815 for Western Canada. THoughts?
So, you are basically going to be in Canada. That would be NWC/Hudson Bay Territory. I'd think about a scalper with a 6-7" blade. The butcher knives were more of an American Mountain man choice, probably because John Jacob Astor of the American Fur Company came from a family of butchers. The heavy Hudson's Bay or Chief's knife might be more of a native peoples choice as would be a dag or bayonet type knife.
There was a little bit of variation in scalpers, mostly the contour of the belly part of the point. Also the length. A scalper is pretty lightweight and easy to carry.
 
FOLLOW UP- I did a quick web search. BE CAREFUL on whatever is presented. I checked out the documentation on a lot of things and in many instances there isn't any. On the following, stay with the half tang styles and you ought to be good to go.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fur...grc=3BIMCVjM0HxZqM&imgdii=j9fdJPyWbsjBrM&ip=1https://www.google.com/search?q=fur...grc=3BIMCVjM0HxZqM&imgdii=j9fdJPyWbsjBrM&ip=1https://www.google.com/search?sa=N&...=1#imgrc=8dcTWyv5J9LvpM&imgdii=yx9IibmvFM4v9Mhttps://www.google.com/search?q=fur...A&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1#imgrc=u0K3vCXYg1mrfM
Well some of what I tried to copy and paste didn't work out, in any event look around on the sites.
 
Back
Top