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Percussion lock repairs needed

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bptactical

Not a Pilgrim
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G'afternoon all,
I am in need of some repair work on a percussion lock. I picked up a matched pair of Sharon barreled rifles here a while back, a flint and a percussion, likely original Sharon kit builds.
The flinter is perfect but the percussion rifle has issues in the lock.
I am pretty sure the lock is a L&R but it is unmarked. My thought is it was a kit lock.
The hammer has never held at full cock, initially I thought the trigger blades were too high not allowing the sear to seat.
Not the case though, the full cock sear notch is incorrect, the sear has been altered at some time as well.
The hammer was loose on the tumbler and when I removed it the hole for the tumbler was clearly oversized, it had been brazed at some point in the past and half of the brass had fallen out. I cleaned out the brass and TIG'd up the old hole so at least it is solid steel now.

Where I need help is this- I dont have the expertise to know exactly what make of lock this is and i dont have the expertise to correctly locate the new hole for the tumbler. I would also like the tumbler and seat checked and if need be replaced or repaired for correct configuration and angles.

Any suggestions? I would prefer to have this lock repaired as it is original to the rifle.
Thank you
 
Sharon did use an L&R lock in their percussion Hawken kits. It's an older design than what L&R currently makes. The only parts that are the same as their current lock are the screws, bridle, sear spring, and the lock plate.

Track of the Wolf sells a new set of internal lock parts that will fit the old lock and sounds like what you need.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/788/1/LOCK-LR-UPGRADE

You could also send the lock to L&R, and they would likely put the same new parts in your lock for you for a price.

DANGER: Sharon kits have L&R locks with old style tumbler, sear, link, pin, mainspring, and fly. Old style parts work fine, but are now obsolete. New L&R parts have improved geometry. NEVER mix new and old parts in the same lock. If you must replace a sear or tumbler, you must install all new internal parts! Sharon Rifle Barrel Co. is now defunct. No old style parts remain, no warranty on Sharon's old locks. We can supply new L&R parts as a set, to upgrade your Sharon rifle. Which includes the following.
  • Tumbler, improved, tempered ready for use, as are all L&R parts.
  • Sear, improved, tempered, ready for use, as are all L&R parts
  • Fly, improved with hole to pivot on tumbler pin.
  • Link, improved, with integral pins. Install large end down.
  • Mainspring, stronger, improved temper, with larger notch for link.
 
G'afternoon all,
I am in need of some repair work on a percussion lock. I picked up a matched pair of Sharon barreled rifles here a while back, a flint and a percussion, likely original Sharon kit builds.
The flinter is perfect but the percussion rifle has issues in the lock.
I am pretty sure the lock is a L&R but it is unmarked. My thought is it was a kit lock.
The hammer has never held at full cock, initially I thought the trigger blades were too high not allowing the sear to seat.
Not the case though, the full cock sear notch is incorrect, the sear has been altered at some time as well.
The hammer was loose on the tumbler and when I removed it the hole for the tumbler was clearly oversized, it had been brazed at some point in the past and half of the brass had fallen out. I cleaned out the brass and TIG'd up the old hole so at least it is solid steel now.

Where I need help is this- I dont have the expertise to know exactly what make of lock this is and i dont have the expertise to correctly locate the new hole for the tumbler. I would also like the tumbler and seat checked and if need be replaced or repaired for correct configuration and angles.

Any suggestions? I would prefer to have this lock repaired as it is original to the rifle.
Thank you
Lots of damage there. I would take the lock apart, lay the plate over the full-size diagrams in Track of the Wolf catalogue, and just order a new lock to fit the inlet. The time required to fix what may be wrong with your stuff is not worth it (imho). I have spent (literally) days messing with worn-out and broken locks. Best to just replace them. If you can figure out who built the lock, you could send it to them for a re-build, but they wouldn't work with the welded-up plate, I'm sure. Good luck with it, no matter which way you go.
 
Just a clarification, the lockplate is fine and I would prefer to keep it as it is original to the rifle. The square hole in the hammer is what was wallowed out/oversized and subsequently welded up.
 
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