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peening pin heads

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Joined
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well gang im new to the forums.

recently bought a MH sea service flintlock pistol.

overall things we're good.

I could not stand the lack of attention paid to the pins.......so I took some of my straight razor restoration skills and applied them.

custom made new to fit pins for thimble and barrel. peened heads much larger to be more obvious.........and polished with mothers to a high shiny sheen.

at least after I'm pushing daisies some ..., EDITED ..., will have an idea which ways the pins should be removed.

be well.

20221102_194219.jpg


camo
 
I'd argue differently.

better to know a common practice for disassembly.

I respectfully disagree and assert that this would be period correct.

one way in.......one presribed ritualistic way out removal.

without reading glasses and or a magnifying glass you wouldn't know up from down.

I may be new.......but I stand that im right by what I once thought
is historically accurate.

camo
 
The..., EDITED..., who gets the gun when you're pushing up daisies will destroy the pin holes because he correctly assumed that the pins can be driven out from either side.
really?

so explain to me the proper removal direction of pins ?????

your honestly saying there is no standard for this?

camo
 
and for the record......


original pins were slightly peened.........and poorly done.

camo
Original pins on this gun? Just because they were peened doesn't mean they should have been.

If anything, the ends should have a very slight taper so they don't splinter the wood when being driven through.
 
I'd argue differently.

better to know a common practice for disassembly.

I respectfully disagree and assert that this would be period correct.

one way in.......one presribed ritualistic way out removal.

without reading glasses and or a magnifying glass you wouldn't know up from down.

I may be new.......but I stand that im right by what I once thought
is historically accurate.

camo


some things to consider.

Original guns are often not good examples of proper workmanship, the reason why is because oringal guns are old and not in their original intended form. If by happen stance you see a peened over barrel pin or thimble pin, i can reasonably assure you, its not supposed to be peened over, it was peened over from removal and was not corrected.

Original Pins were made of wrought Iron which can peen and bend rather easily, if someone is hitting a stuck pin, it could peen it by accident.

Peened heads on pins are essentially nails, not intended to be removed unless they’re pulled out by force, barrel pins are intended to be removed for service.

Some pins are permenant, however they’re not often referred to as pins they’re referred to as rivets, for example a nose cap is riveted to a stock muzzle end, its no longer a pin its a rivit and is not intended to be removed.

Why peen over pin head? What would be the benefit to this, i only see the risk to damaging the stock if removed incorrectly.

Barrel keys often had a fat end, which keyed them in place, not technically peened over, as they were casted or forged that way so one could grip them for removal.

Here are some pictures of original Bess’s and Charleville’s with pins that are most certainly, not peened over.

And copy of Kit Ravensheers guide to setting pins in a stock and removing them from an old stock.

Lastly…. Your MH Tower Flintlock Pistol is hardly historically accurate with or without peened over pins.
 

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Last edited:
really?

so explain to me the proper removal direction of pins ?????

your honestly saying there is no standard for this?

camo
The standard for removing pins is as follows.

Pins can be removed from left to right.

Pins can be removed from right to left.

You can even drive them downward if the lock is facing up.

And you can drive them downward when the lock is facing down.

Point being, at no time should a pin have sharp and or jagged edges.
 
This is false, the grumpy gunsmith of Williamsburg would have had you flogged for purposely peening over a barrel pin.
I'm just telling you you about the specimen I recieved. poorly pitifully done pins. any bloke can shove a nail in and cut it off with angle cutters.......obviously


its condition is controversial.

whatever you guys say is right........as a craftsman.......I say different.

roll on.......whatever works for you.

I'll take mine my way done right.

camo
 
some things to consider.

Original guns are often not good examples of proper workmanship, the reason why is because oringal guns are old and not in their original intended form. If by happen stance you see a peened over barrel pin or thimble pin, i can reasonably assure you, its not supposed to be peened over, it was peened over from removal and was not corrected.

Original Pins were made of wrought Iron which can peen and bend rather easily, if someone is hitting a stuck pin, it could peen it by accident.

Peened heads on pins are essentially nails, not intended to be removed unless they’re pulled out by force, barrel pins are intended to be removed for service.

Some pins are permenant, however they’re not often referred to as pins they’re referred to as rivets, for example a nose cap is riveted to a stock muzzle end, its no longer a pin its a rivit and is not intended to be removed.

Why peen over pin head? What would be the benefit to this, i only see the risk to damaging the stock if removed incorrectly.

Barrel keys often had a fat end, which keyed them in place, not technically peened over, as they were casted or forged that way so one could grip them for removal.

Here are some pictures of original Bess’s and Charleville’s with pins that are most certainly, not peened over.

And copy of Kit Ravensheers guide to setting pins in a stock and removing them from an old stock.

Lastly…. Your MH Tower Flintlock Pistol is hardly historically accurate with or without peened over pins.
flintenick I understand what you're explaining with this.

thanks for your response.

camo
 
thanks dusty.

just my point.
as a Newby I at least expected a standard.......but alas no.

I can't imagine it being okay going Willey Nilly in any direction you want.

first time I pulled the pins.........I was a wee bit concerned about this.

dunno.....maybe I've looked over my pistol way too much by stadards???standards????

camo
 
thanks dusty.

just my point.
as a Newby I at least expected a standard.......but alas no.

I can't imagine it being okay going Willey Nilly in any direction you want.

first time I pulled the pins.........I was a wee bit concerned about this.

dunno.....maybe I've looked over my pistol way too much by stadards???standards????

camo
 
really?

so explain to me the proper removal direction of pins ?????

your honestly saying there is no standard for this?

camo
Typically remove from the lock side and entered through from side plate side. It can’t be done either way of course but it ought to move in its intended direction. That is the direction it was installed.

Pins should be polished, and deburred and the lugs on the barrel should be slotted slightly or oblong.

Chamfering the pin end is beneficial
 
Typically remove from the lock side and entered through from side plate side.

Pins should be polished, and deburred and the lugs on the barrel should be slotted slightly or oblong.
mine had a slight head on the lock side........hence my confusion.

assumed was standard practice. guess that's what I get for assuming


either way........in the big wood box.......

my son will understand how to mould .600 balls, know powder an measurement, and safe handling.


and disassemble the piece and it's care.

... EDITED..., now my wife wants a blunderbuss.......I'm a lucky man.

camo
 
thanks dusty.

just my point.
as a Newby I at least expected a standard.......but alas no.

I can't imagine it being okay going Willey Nilly in any direction you want.

first time I pulled the pins.........I was a wee bit concerned about this.

dunno.....maybe I've looked over my pistol way too much by stadards???standards????

camo
It’s of course OK to do your own thing because it’s your gun for example, on some of my guns I use arca glass to bed inlets, this is of course not historically accurate
 
Have made a few thousand pins. The only ones hammer swelled on both ends , are the ones holding the wooden r/r metal ends on. None of the M/L building books written by long time very successful m/l gunstockers , use mushroomed gun pins. I've examined original American ,and European m/l gun pins , and am totally disillusioned to find these experts were wrong. This so aggravates me , think of it , a half century + of m/l gunstocking , and I have been misled by pre 1800 era amateurs..........oldwood :doh:
 
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