Pedersoli Scout .32 cal Accuracy Help

[senseisugarbear]

Mcgiiver,, While I agree with the body of your text, I disagree on the ONLY way you state. Guess What I don't have a lathe...And I have fixed several Rifle crowns. I used a Carriage bolt and a soft polishing wheel along with several grades of polishing compound. Takes a little more time, but time is one thing I got , besides I have intamate control over the process.... If this post seems a little Redneck, look at the box under my post...Be Safe>>>>Wally

 

[Mcgiiver1]

Mcgiiver,, While I agree with the body of your text, I disagree on the ONLY way you state. Guess What I don't have a lathe...And I have fixed several Rifle crowns. I used a Carriage bolt and a soft polishing wheel along with several grades of polishing compound. Takes a little more time, but time is one thing I got , besides I have intamate control over the process.... If this post seems a little Redneck, look at the box under my post...Be Safe>>>>Wally

Your method will work to smooth up a crown or removes nicks. I have used your method before. However, the smoothest crown in the world may not shoot well if the crown is not exactly perpendicular to the centerline of the bore. As the base of the bullet exits the bore, gas will escape on one side first if the crown is not at right angles to the bore, kicking the bullet into a yawed flight. The brass bolt method can only follow the crown that is there. The lathe method can straighten out a crown that is not at right angles to the bore. Some say an 11 degree crown is best for accuracy, maybe , but it much more difficult to do correctly than a recessed flat crown.

 

[senseisugarbear]

McGIIVER, YOU are EXATLEY right.... but I have had to shorten barrels without a lathe..The End MUST be perpendicular. I'm Just point out that barrels were crowned correctly for Hundreds of years before the invention of the lathe........ Along way of saying NIETHER of us are Wrong ..JUST Different....Be Safe>>>>>WAlly

 

[hanshi]

Messing with the crown using emery cloth and your finger is a surefire way to ruin the crown. The only proper way to fix a crown is using a lathe and indicated off the bore.

Not if you know how to do it. You have to turn the barrel after any number of turns and keep everything consistent.

 

[JHB]

Brownell sells tools to recrown barrels by hand.

 

[harleynut]

I am using a .310 ball and .010 patch. I did find some .50 cal pillow ticking patches I will try. I’ll just cut off the excess after starting the ball. The lube appears to be old on thoes so I’ll try adding some bore butter to the patches. Hopefully it helps, I’ll try again tomorrow.

What are you using for patch lube? Try #13 thompson bore cleaner with some water soluble machine cutting solution! 1part machine solution to 6 parts #13 bore cleaner Bore butter is manure! Thank me later

 

[Blackpowder Therapist]

Did you ever figure this issue out? I just read through the whole thread and you've peaked my curiosity

 

[Sam squanch]

My friend had a bad shooting rifle. We knocked the barrel pins out and held the barrel and stock together temporarily with duct tape. It worked! The underlugs were not slotted enough. Although I think the OP’s problem was off weight round balls. Swaged balls should be weighed with a GOOD reloading scale. Also ones you cast…..

 

[Billy Boy]

JoAnn's has a lot more options than mattress and pillow ticking. You probably made a good choice. Do wash your ticking. You need to remove the sizing that provides the feel of thickness but will impede the absorption of patch lube. As for lubricant, there's a lot of good lubricants already in your kitchen. A mix of 1 part dish washing detergent to 1 part water gives a fairly slick lube that keeps fouling soft. Cooking oils such as olive oil or canola oil are good straight. If you can't sneak the gourmet extra virgin olive oil out, then dampen the patch with spit. For many, spit patching is a top choice. Just damp, not wet.

Smaller ball, thicker patch is the direction I recommend. Don't use prelubricated patches as the material breaks down in storage.

Smooth the crown.

Next trip to JoAnn's look at the cotton drill, my favorite, the denims or canvas to expand your selection. Always get 100% cotton.

Found some pure linen material which works great with tighter fitting balls, -.495 vs .490, .535 vs .530, tighter weave than pillow ticking but a little thinner

 

[Leadriver]

Did you ever figure this issue out? I just read through the whole thread and you've peaked my curiosity

No, I never did. Its very frustrating and discouraging. I haven't touched the rifle since last year, late summer.

 

[smokepolehall]

So you are now casting the rb's n loading them sprue up. Using 3 F black. Have you tried veggie or dry wool wads over the powder ? What lube are you using now ? Dawn equal amount of water or olive oil could work well. You ck'ed bore have you found any cuts in the recovered patches ? You said the sights were tight. Is the stock forward of barrel showing any pressure on the barrel ? Small diameter barrels does not take much to make them move. My .45 Harken was so eratic i thought of taking up drinking for a hobby. I found the wedge key was worn, so i shimmed it tight. My barrel was moving on every shot & i was chasing my sights after the hits in target.

 

[SDSmlf]

No, I never did. Its very frustrating and discouraging. I haven't touched the rifle since last year, late summer.

Unfortunate.

My ‘standard’ 32 caliber squirrel load in my Pedersoli Scout flint (and percussion, I have both locks) is 12-15 grains of 4F or 3F Swiss. An inch high at 25 yards, about an inch low at 50, but I don’t stretch it to 50 yards very often. Playing the wind makes it quite the challenge. At 25 yards a quarter easily covers a 5 shot group if I don’t mess up. Use a Ballistic Products 1-1/2 buckshot and a relatively thin wet patch (high thread count bed sheets), with a .375” hard felt wad (Duro-Felt Products) over the powder. I’ve standardize on 3F Swiss for most of my shooting, but 4F works well in this and other 32 caliber guns I’ve tried it in. No reason to think 2F powder can’t be made to work (I have not tried it much), though it will be a bit slower as a pan powder if you were shooting flint.

In your OP you mentioned 3” groups at 50 yards. How does this compare with your 50 yard groups from a 22 RF with open sights?

 

[Leadriver]

So you are now casting the rb's n loading them sprue up. Using 3 F black. Have you tried veggie or dry wool wads over the powder ? What lube are you using now ? Dawn equal amount of water or olive oil could work well. You ck'ed bore have you found any cuts in the recovered patches ? You said the sights were tight. Is the stock forward of barrel showing any pressure on the barrel ? Small diameter barrels does not take much to make them move. My .45 Harken was so eratic i thought of taking up drinking for a hobby. I found the wedge key was worn, so i shimmed it tight. My barrel was moving on every shot & i was chasing my sights after the hits in target.

Now I am using cast round balls that are micd, weighted and sorted. 3f Swiss with a dry wad over the powder. Washed pillow ticking and moose snot. Swabed with moose milk between shots. Though I have tried dozens of different powder, lube, patch combinations with same results. My last resort is bedding the tang and breech. Just haven't had the time yet.

 

[Leadriver]

Unfortunate.

My ‘standard’ 32 caliber squirrel load in my Pedersoli Scout flint (and percussion, I have both locks) is 12-15 grains of 4F or 3F Swiss. An inch high at 25 yards, about an inch low at 50, but I don’t stretch it to 50 yards very often. Playing the wind makes it quite the challenge. At 25 yards a quarter easily covers a 5 shot group if I don’t mess up. Use a Ballistic Products 1-1/2 buckshot and a relatively thin wet patch (high thread count bed sheets), with a .375” hard felt wad (Duro-Felt Products) over the powder. I’ve standardize on 3F Swiss for most of my shooting, but 4F works well in this and other 32 caliber guns I’ve tried it in. No reason to think 2F powder can’t be made to work (I have not tried it much), though it will be a bit slower as a pan powder if you were shooting flint.

In your OP you mentioned 3” groups at 50 yards. How does this compare with your 50 yard groups from a 22 RF with open sights?

Depends on the ammunition and the gun it's coming out of. But with a good combo I don't have a prob holding a 1"ish at 50 with open sights. A different 22 I used to have I could put 5 shots in 3/4" at 100yrds repeatedly with a good scope. I use to take varmints at 100 with head shots long as I used my rangefinder and played the wind. That combo was a Savage BSEV with a SWFA scope with Lapua center X ammo. Used to love watching the bullet go through the sunny patches on the way to the target.

 

[Leadriver]

I did buy wheelers bedrock glass bedding kit. Going to try bedding the tang, breech, and first 3" of the barrel.

 

[smokepolehall]

I have been pondering the reason why your .32 is giving you the bad groups. About went through all the causes except the barrel rifling is not correct.

 

[Leadriver]

I have been pondering the reason why your .32 is giving you the bad groups. About went through all the causes except the barrel rifling is not correct.

Yea, I sent a bore scope down the barrel. Everything appears great. Bedding is my last and final option.

 

[smokepolehall]

I can't remember in all the posts if the rifle is pinned or has a wedge ?

 

[Leadriver]

I can't remember in all the posts if the rifle is pinned or has a wedge ?

Pinned

 

[smokepolehall]

That would eliminate a loose wedge n barrel bouncing on every shot.