Pedersoli/Lyman Great Plains Kit

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Me too. I always have heard the same thing about the sunset position but since I have never owned or fired a flintlock I am concerned. However, I have been studying photos of flintlocks and have seen several with the touch hole in the same place and some of these pictures show "custom" guns. All I can do is finish the rifle and try it out to see how it works.

Smart approach. :thumb:

Larry Pletcher did timing tests on the location of the touchole that pretty much showed that it is not important. Aesthetically, the sunset position may be desireable but, like keeping your fly zipped when around other people, keep your frizzen shut when around other shooters! :)
 
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Smart approach. :thumb:

Larry Pletcher did timing tests on the location of the touchole that pretty much showed that it is not important. Aesthetically, the sunset position may be desireable but, like keeping your fly zipped when around other people, keep your frizzen shut when around other shooters! :)
LOL Thanks for the input.
 
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Try shooting your new rifle before making any changes. Why make work if you don't have to? Flintlocks will surprise you. I know from experience.
Thanks for the advice and I do plan to try it out after the rifle is finished before I make any modifications. Hopefully it will give me no problems but being new to the dark side of muzzleloaders, I thought I would see what experienced people thought as to possible solutions to a possible problem.
 

Bobby44

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I had one looked similar. On the first fires it f-t-f about 60%. I cussed loudly and touched the bottom with a 1/2 round needle file until it looked "better" to my eye. F-t-f now 0%. Just my meager experience. Fire it before you second guess!
 

Bighorserider

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The touch hole is obviously too low. As others have said you can work around it, but why should you have to on a brand new gun you paid a lot of money for?
 
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I had one looked similar. On the first fires it f-t-f about 60%. I cussed loudly and touched the bottom with a 1/2 round needle file until it looked "better" to my eye. F-t-f now 0%. Just my meager experience. Fire it before you second guess!
You don't happen to have a photograph of what the pan looked like after you "touched the bottom" do you? Just in case I happen to need to do something similar after I fire it.
 
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The touch hole is obviously too low. As others have said you can work around it, but why should you have to on a brand new gun you paid a lot of money for?
I agree with you in principle BUT this was purchased on line. When you figure return shipping costs and the headache of trying to get my money back or get them to send me a replacement (when they will contend there is nothing wrong with it), and the fact that there is no guarantee that the replacement would not have the same or a different fault, I think I will just see how this goes. Worst case scenario, I will have a good looking wall hanger.
 

Jim Evans

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Something else that may help is to replace your touch hole with the RMC touch hole.
The first photo show the standard one on the left and the RMC on the right which uses a Allen wrench
tempImageJQp2lZ.png

And they are in stock at RMC Oxyoke
tempImageKWN5Rn.png
 

Daveboone

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I have the Pedersoli GPR Flinter, bought it last spring (assembled). My touchhole is a smidge higher, but I wouldnt worry about yours unless you have problems. I learned early that you really do not need much primer powder at all. The pan holds plenty. I have had many compliments from much more experienced shooters on how nice and fast my lock fires. Shoot it first, trouble shoot later. I have to say though, my ramrod also was a throw away. It was undersized and felt like balsa wood. Very annoying, The more I shoot the rifle, the happier I am with it.
 
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I have enlarged pans with a Dremel, being a former power duck decoy carver I know my way around a Dremel.

Little diamond bits would be my choice for the job, the elcheapo ones cut like crazy but don't last long, I think I paid $5 for this set, there are several that are the perfect size to slot underlugs.

dremel bits.JPG


My choice for the pan would be this one, it might take two of them to finish the job. I wouldn't dig a hole I would deepen the pan from stem to stern, of course I would take the lock out of the stock to do it.. This worn out bit is the one I use to touch up inletting, it barely cuts anything. Most people who let a Dremel get away from them and do damage have the wrong bit in it, or are trying to hog off wood.

dremel bit.JPG


As for Dremels, I was once a tool snob, top of the line only, I had a variable speed Dremel and an expensive foot controlled Fordom. My first Dremel was American made and lasted 30 years with heavy use. When it gave up the ghost I bought a new one and noticed it was Chinese made, it lasted a couple of weeks.

I called the company and they said to send it back, "how much to fix it" I said, between "0" and $50 she said, "we have to see if it has a manufacturing defect or you broke it". A crap shoot, with $75 already invested I didn't want to chance dropping another $50 into it so off to Harbor Freight I went. I threw the Dremel in the trash.

$8 on sale, not as powerful Dremel but it works just fine, This one is on it's second year, if it burns up I think I can afford another $8 or $9 for a replacement.

dremel harbor freight.JPG
 
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SPQR70AD

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I have enlarged pans with a Dremel, being a former power duck decoy carver I know my way around a Dremel.

Little diamond bits would be my choice for the job, the elcheapo ones cut like crazy but don't last long, I think I paid $5 for this set, there are several that are the perfect size to slot underlugs.

View attachment 133093

My choice for the pan would be this one, it might take two of them to finish the job. I wouldn't dig a hole I would deepen the pan from stem to stern, of course I would take the lock out of the stock to do it.. This worn out bit is the one I use to touch up inletting, it barely cuts anything. Most people who let a Dremel get away from them and do damage have the wrong bit in it, or are trying to hog off wood.

View attachment 133095

As for Dremels, I was once a tool snob, top of the line only, I had a variable speed Dremel and an expensive foot controlled Fordom. My first Dremel was American made and lasted 30 years with heavy use. When it gave up the ghost I bought a new one and noticed it was Chinese made, it lasted a couple of weeks.

I called the company and they said to send it back, "how much to fix it" I said, between "0" and $50 she said, "we have to see if it has a manufacturing defect or you broke it". A crap shoot, with $75 already invested I didn't want to chance dropping another $50 into it so off to Harbor Freight I went. I threw the Dremel in the trash.

$8 on sale, not as powerful Dremel but it works just fine, This one is on it's second year, if it burns up I think I can afford another $8 or $9 for a replacement.

View attachment 133097
I guess you know that chicago is made in China also
 
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Is the barrel sitting low in the breach ? Looks like maybe you need to add to the stock at the rear a bit. Which would raise the touch hole.

But I'm not hands on, so I could be blowing smoke.
 
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I have the Pedersoli GPR Flinter, bought it last spring (assembled). My touchhole is a smidge higher, but I wouldnt worry about yours unless you have problems. I learned early that you really do not need much primer powder at all. The pan holds plenty. I have had many compliments from much more experienced shooters on how nice and fast my lock fires. Shoot it first, trouble shoot later. I have to say though, my ramrod also was a throw away. It was undersized and felt like balsa wood. Very annoying, The more I shoot the rifle, the happier I am with it.
Good to hear. I might just be anticipating a problem that might not exist but being new to flinters and nervous that it might not go bang or might have consistent hang fires, I thought seeking input from experience flintlock shooters seemed prudent.
 
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