Pc sewing thread for capote?

[tenngun]

I used a blanket stitch but to be honest- just did it without thinking. Has anyone seen an original and what kind of stitch was used? I am mostly interested in the mountain man era and there were diaries that the outfit stopped and made some so capotes could be homemade or a manufactured trade item.

As far as can be seen in paintings and a few capotes contemporary to MM period, although not directly in the mountains all seams were internal. Tight overlap stitches for hemmed edges, and sides brought together with ladder stitching was common treatment for clothing.
Blankets didn’t come with finished edges until well after the WBTS. A blanket was made twice as long.then ripped in half just before trade or sale.
A blanket pair had cheaper import duties. And a blanket bale came with a pair as a wrapper for the bail untaxed

 

[buckless yooper]

Your seams will still be stonger if you hem and then ladder stitch.
Looking real good on reservation style is a bright colored welt at your shoulder seam. You can do this with a felt, or a flannel bought at Wally World.
Your other edges can be raw,but even worn robe like the underside of the sleeves gets a lot of stress and unravels at the arm pit easy if not hemmed,and as you sleaves are folded at the top for arm fringe they make a self welt. But you want that hem and welt in the bottom
You can edge with a contrasting yarn color or the same color on a blanket or x stitch. A blanket stitch is easier to add by hand and get even

You wouldn’t happen to have any pictures of your capote seams would you?

 

[tenngun]

Not much to see
My capote, lined with red tartan
And my sleeves waist coat sewn the same way

 

[tenngun]

Material folded and hemmed then ladder stitched together

 

[tenngun]

You wouldn’t happen to have any pictures of your capote seams would you?

Above
Added so you get the notification

 

[buckless yooper]

Above
Added so you get the notification

Thank you sir!

 

[Mad L]

Thank you sir! Nu

Incase you were wondering about the 'Ladder Stitch'

 

[pacanis]

I have a question or two if you would.

I'll be starting my first capote soon. I recently bought a nice, thick, beautiful 1940's HBC blanket that has been given the fluff and buff treatment. And I have been squirreling away different videos and book marks on stitches.

And then I came upon this thread and it settled my mind. I think I would like to do the seams with a back stitch and reinforce the high stress areas with a bar tack. I will also probably dress up the edges with a blanket stitch.

So my questions are:

Has anyone ever pressed open the inside seams of your capote when using a running or back stitch?

Do patterns allow for seams? If so, how much? 1/4"? 3/8"? 1/2"???

 

[Mad L]

I have a question or two if you would.

I'll be starting my first capote soon. I recently bought a nice, thick, beautiful 1940's HBC blanket that has been given the fluff and buff treatment. And I have been squirreling away different videos and book marks on stitches.

And then I came upon this thread and it settled my mind. I think I would like to do the seams with a back stitch and reinforce the high stress areas with a bar tack. I will also probably dress up the edges with a blanket stitch.

So my questions are:

Has anyone ever pressed open the inside seams of your capote when using a running or back stitch?

Do patterns allow for seams? If so, how much? 1/4"? 3/8"? 1/2"???

Not sure about your question of "press open the seems"?
But do know that wool in general is prone to fraying so the Blanket stitch is common. Also the Bar Tacking is highly recommended, I had to add a few on the one Northwest Traders made me...but not until after a couple years of use when i noticed stress at each end of the hood attachment.

I would ne interested to hear what you find out about your Seems question.
Would also like to figure out how they do the 'Hidden Stitch' for attaching the inside pocket (it's so 'hidden' I can't see it to figure it out).

 

[pacanis]

Not sure about your question of "press open the seems"?
But do know that wool in general is prone to fraying so the Blanket stitch is common. Also the Bar Tacking is highly recommended, I had to add a few on the one Northwest Traders made me...but not until after a couple years of use when i noticed stress at each end of the hood attachment.

I would ne interested to hear what you find out about your Seems question.
Would also like to figure out how they do the 'Hidden Stitch' for attaching the inside pocket (it's so 'hidden' I can't see it to figure it out).

The question was if anyone has done it. Press (as in iron) open the seams, (not seems).
If you do not understand it, I'll take that as a no. And maybe it isn't common with capotes and wool blankets, but I've run into "press open seams" a lot in my research. It's used as a way to flatten things and seat the stitching. I just haven't found where they do it to heavier wool blankets or not. Like most stitching tutorials, I've only seen examples on test material and not actual product material.

If the hidden stitch is the same as the invisible stitch, or ladder stitch that was mentioned here several times, It seems like a lot more work to me. If I understand it right, you need to hem the edges first so you can use the ladder stitch. Nobody really elaborated on it other than mentioning it and posting video on sample cloth and not actually using it on attaching a sleeve to a shoulder.

If you think about it, if you hem 1/2" on both the top of the sleeve and the body where the sleeve gets sewn so you can use a ladder stitch, you have just changed the circumference where they sew together by 1". Let alone shrinking the sleeve when you hemmed both edges down the length. How do you fudge that together?

Disclaimer: just trying to get all my ducks in a row. I'm a measure twice cut once kind of guy.

Not having any experience in this it seems like hemming things before sewing them up could alter measurements.

 

[Mad L]

The question was if anyone has done it. Press (as in iron) open the seams, (not seems).
If you do not understand it, I'll take that as a no. And maybe it isn't common with capotes and wool blankets, but I've run into "press open seams" a lot in my research. It's used as a way to flatten things and seat the stitching. I just haven't found where they do it to heavier wool blankets or not. Like most stitching tutorials, I've only seen examples on test material and not actual product material.

If the hidden stitch is the same as the invisible stitch, or ladder stitch that was mentioned here several times, It seems like a lot more work to me. If I understand it right, you need to hem the edges first so you can use the ladder stitch. Nobody really elaborated on it other than mentioning it and posting video on sample cloth and not actually using it on attaching a sleeve to a shoulder.

If you think about it, if you hem 1/2" on both the top of the sleeve and the body where the sleeve gets sewn so you can use a ladder stitch, you have just changed the circumference where they sew together by 1". Let alone shrinking the sleeve when you hemmed both edges down the length. How do you fudge that together?

Disclaimer: just trying to get all my ducks in a row. I'm a measure twice cut once kind of guy.

Not having any experience in this it seems like hemming things before sewing them up could alter measurements.

I kind of figured that was what you were talking about; it is in several of my shirt and trouser pattern directions but don't recall it mentioned is tutorials I have read for blanket made capotes.

However if you look at Tenngun's in the post above it looks like (in last photo) his was.

Mine is not, here is the Sleeve stitching on mine (about 1/4" hem) - not flattened out at all (all other 'seams' are done the same).

The "Hidden stictch" is what Northwest Traders say they use to attach an Inner Pocket not the sleeves or other seams, just the Pocket (not HC but nice to have). Stitching can not be seen on inside or outside, only the top edge appears to be hemmed (to prevent wear and unraveling?) but the others appear raw. Only way to see the thread is to peal back and edge - like it does not come all way out either side and no visible start or tie off.

As I understand it, Northwest Traders has some Native Americans (maybe Canadian?) that do a lot of the work for him...not that that means the work is HC but it is all hand sewn.

 

[DixieTexian]

If the wool has been fulled, there is no need to do any sort of seem treatment on the inside. If it has not, I would at least hem them with a running stich to prevent fraying. Pressing them flat isn't likely to do much on thick blanket wool unless you then dress the seam by flat felling it or some other treatment.