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Dan Masson

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Hey folks, my name is Dan, and I found a nice rifle at the pawn shop the other day. I need some advice getting this thing up and running.
I am not sure exactly what I have, but I will call it Kentucky rifle for now. The curly Maple stock was screaming at me from across the room. The hammer was cocked back, the triggers would not move, and using the ramrod I determine that the gun was loaded or plugged. So I told the pawn shop owner it had a lot of problems and I could only buy it as a wall hanger, which I did!
Something to know, yes I am recovering from shoulder surgery, in my right arm is in a sling. so I am a little bit winged. I did manage to remove the lock and triggers and got them straightened out everything works fine there.
The bore is rusty, and a load is stuck in the barrel. It is 50 caliber. They drum and nipple are missing. I suspect someone remove them and lost them when trying to clear the barrel. After reading post on your forum, it looks like the best way to remove the load is to somehow get a zerk fitting on it and blow it out with a grease gun, which should be no problem. I do not know what threads the little drum is. There is no makers mark on the barrel, so I do not know what brands of parts there are. One other problem I have, is the front trigger is too close to the brass guard. this is a target style set trigger that must be set with the rear trigger before the front one will trip. I don't think I like this, my other guns have double set triggers and work differently. The trigger has "DRU" stamped on the side. Anyway, the simplest fix might be to replace the triggers with a single trigger or single set trigger. This looks like a rifle that was built from parts, and not a kit gun. The lock has a spot on it that is a different color, which looks like it may have been a flint lock converted to a percussion lock, and filled in with silver solder. The lock has a tiny "I" stamp in the back of it. I will post pictures, and any advice you can give me will be appreciated.
Should I first try to pull ball with a ball puller on my range rod? Should I pre-soak everything with Kroil before trying to pull the ball? Or should I go directly to the grease gun?
I will need to buy a drum and nipple anyway, and can buy a sacrificial drum if it will help.
Thank you in advance! Dan
 

bang

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Guarantee if you set the trigger correctly you only need enough room to get just a touch of finger tip on the main trigger.
Oil soak the bore overnight then bronze brush the dog out of it. Once clean put somthing down the bore and see if you can verify what's there is lead by getting a sample. Always good to know what you are dealing with.
If there is pitting you'll need to lap it after you get the obstruction out.
Don't know about drum threads. I suggest getting a 1/4 x 28, a 1/4 x 18, or 5/16 x 18 and 5/16 x 24 bolt and see if it fits. If the 1/4 x 28 fits but loose try 6mm x 1.00, if 5/16 x 18 loose try 8mm x 1.25. Don't use the SAE if loose. Just keep trying till you find what works or is close and go from there.
The metric grease fittings I have are I believe 6mm. Doesn't mean there aren't any 8mm I just don't know.
If you remove the barrel it is possible there could be markings on bottom.
When you get to point of lapping come back and we have plenty of info.
 

Dan Masson

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Thanks! I am a forklift tech, plenty of grease fittings on hand of different sizes. I just need to get my right arm out of sling (and I am right handed).
At first I was thinking it was suggested to put grease fitting in the hole for nipple, which is missing. I now see that I think I have a fitting that will fit the drum hole.
I will need to get a drum and possibly a jig to drill the nipple hole.
I bet I have a few nipples on hand for my Lyman guns.
 

bang

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Thanks! I am a forklift tech, plenty of grease fittings on hand of different sizes. I just need to get my right arm out of sling (and I am right handed).
At first I was thinking it was suggested to put grease fitting in the hole for nipple, which is missing. I now see that I think I have a fitting that will fit the drum hole.
I will need to get a drum and possibly a jig to drill the nipple hole.
I bet I have a few nipples on hand for my Lyman guns.
Not exactly sure but the machining process may thread the drums and barrel with same thread starting points so the nipple hole will line up. I'm sure there would be some minimal adjustment needed should this be the case. I've never change one so I'm not sure but it seems a practical machining practice. The issue is finding one that is specifically for that manufacturer of the barrel. Otherwise you will have to get one without nipple hole and have at it. One advantage is if you are off a small amount you can tweak the hammer to match.
 

Zonie

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If you don't already have one, I think your first plan of action is to buy a Track of the Wolf catalog. Not only is it an excellent book with full size pictures of the various locks and trigger guards but it has a lot of useful information in it.

Getting to your questions, no, that lock has always been a percussion lock. I have no idea who made it but it looks well made.

The trigger assembly is indeed a double set, single lever (or blade) style and you will need to cock the rear trigger before you can cock the lock. (You've already figured this out buy I thought I would mention it. The missing "lever" or blade on the front trigger is the clue.) TotW has a number of double set, double lever style triggers for sale and I'm sure they will have one that will fit your gun. You'll probably have to drill and tap a hole in it for the tang screw and you'll probably need to file the top of the levers (blades) to get them to work with your lock. You may also have to remove a bit of wood in the trigger mortise to clear the front triggers lever. Not a big deal but it won't be just a simple drop in.

The trigger guard issue might be a bit more difficult. The TG shown in your photo is pretty much a standard one TOTW sells but finding one that will be close to fitting the existing mortise's and still provide enough room in front of the front trigger might be a challenge but here again, that TOTW catalog is your friend. It will show you dozens of trigger guards, full size, so you can pick and choose among their offerings.

The drum hole in the barrel looks like it is a 5/16" thread. The ones from TOTW come in a 5/16" and a 3/8" thread with several different size drum bodies.
Measure the width of the notch in the lockplate to see what the body diameter should be. It will probably be a 1/2" but it might also be a 7/16" diameter size. Also, measure the outside diameter of the threads in the barrel. There is enough difference between the 5/16 and the 3/8 size to allow just a simple ruler or tape measure measurement.

While your buying, don't forget the nipple. As for the tap for the nipple, I think TOTW's prices are pretty high and your local hardware store should have the 1/4-28 tap and a tap drill for it at a better price.

I don't know what you paid for it but all in all it looks like you got a pretty good rifle there. Just some minor issues to clean up and your in business.
Oh. I don't know if you can find a grease zirk with the right size thread on it but maybe a 1/8 NPT tapered pipe thread will work?
If you do use a pipe thread just screw it in finger tight so you don't mess up the threads in the barrel. Finger tight will be good enough for the low pressures needed from the grease gun to blow that stuck load out of the barrel.

Have fun. :)


 

Dan Masson

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Jim, thanks for your reply and time. According to TOW website, their catalog is out of print. I submitted my email for notice when they get more in. I just ordered a DGW catalog.
I am a forklift mechanic, and used to make knives, so a little fabrication is no problem. I have a wide assortment of grease fittings, as well as tap and die sets. I even have a powered grease gun.:cool:
Your assessment, along with advice is appreciated!
Bang sent me info on lapping the barrel and cleaning up the rifling, thanks!
Now I need to get this sling off my right arm (yes I am right handed)!! Hopefully this week.
I'm excited about this project. Dan:)
 

Cjensen

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Hey , don't forget , if you have a decent say 4 inch bench vice , put some sheet brass in the jaws , and unbreach the barrel,After soaking the plug w/ penetrating oil , I've never failed to unscrew the breech plug in any old original gun. Once the plug is out the bore can be fixed.
 

Heelerau

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Your rifle is a nice custom one, and as Zonie says get onto Track of the Wolf, they have jigs drums and taps and drills etc so that should not be hopefully to much of an issue. You may need a machinist to adjust the drum thread to get it to get the nipple to line up the proper angle to the hammer face. Unscrewing the breach plug is a pretty good option as the bore is a bit rusty, you can soak the breech in a tin full of 50/50 acetone and trans mission oil for a week or two, or till your shoulder works again ! then I would put a bit of copper/brass sheet on the vice jaws and I have also used copper sheet on a large shifter to protect the tang when you go to move it. You are supposed to have a proper fitting tool that fits the breech plug and not bruise it. The copper sheet between the jaws of the spanner works quite well. Good luck.
 

Dan Masson

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This rifle has an appointment with the local hospital Monday night, for an x ray.:ghostly:
A question about finish.. it is not browned or blued. I guess plain metal does ok if not abused?
I will start on this as soon as I can.
Dan
 
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