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Patch knife?

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Joined
Oct 5, 2019
Messages
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Location
Orange county new York.
Maybe a dumb question but what makes a good patch knife, is there a particular style blade or edge that works best.

I've seen some patch knife builders kits, they look like a fun project or what one would you recommend.
 
Good steel that hold a good edge is important as you will be tinking the muzzle and cutting some pretty tough cloth. It’s nice not to have to sharpen before each outing. I have patch knives of all sorts but usually just use whatever belt knife I’m wearing or my period style pocket knife. I would think, just as in the period, if you aren’t a belt knife carrier, any small period knife style that can be attached to the bag or strap is ok.
 
I agree. Some of my best patch knives have blades as thin as a straight razor.
If I knew that recipe for that lube you used in one of your videos. The lube that let you shoot without any need to wipe between shots. I use OxYoke competition wet lube for target, and mink oil for hunting. But after watching your video about not changing lubes, I've got to head out to my range and check out how the mink oil does with my sighted in peep sight. Is there any way you can convince your buddy to share his lube recipe? Matter of fact, that's the only thing keeping me from buying my patching in bulk and cutting them at the muzzle like we are supposed to versus using the precut ones. But, I admit storing them in old plastic film containers works pretty good. But I want to be more traditional about things.
 
The large knife is what I use and the smaller one that has a bevel on only one side is the wife's. The smallest is double bevel and I keep with another rifle. All work well for cutting at the muzzle because they are very sharp and hold an edge.
001 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
If I knew that recipe for that lube you used in one of your videos. The lube that let you shoot without any need to wipe between shots. I use OxYoke competition wet lube for target, and mink oil for hunting. But after watching your video about not changing lubes, I've got to head out to my range and check out how the mink oil does with my sighted in peep sight. Is there any way you can convince your buddy to share his lube recipe? Matter of fact, that's the only thing keeping me from buying my patching in bulk and cutting them at the muzzle like we are supposed to versus using the precut ones. But, I admit storing them in old plastic film containers works pretty good. But I want to be more traditional about things.

He asked me not to spread it around, I’m not sure why, but he’s 80 and I’ll respect his request but it’s no huge secret overall. Mostly Mink Oil with a smidge of bees wax to stiffen and his discovery, which is a super slick all natural food grade additive. Most anything that will not allow the fouling to harden will work with a tight patch/ball combo. Last week I shot 30 straight out of the .36. Last load was as easy as the first. Tight combo and lots of grease/tallow lube is the key. My squirrel guns may get 5 shots in 5 mins as we’ve lots of squirrels around here. For my deer guns I go more for first shot accuracy and don’t care about reload ease so I use less lube but I do use the same lube for all as range time is hunting practice so I don’t like variables.

Also, use precut if you like, it’s just as HC. Strips were very common in the rural south so I use that.
 
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He asked me not to spread it around, I’m not sure why, but he’s 80 and I’ll respect his request but it’s no huge secret overall. Mostly Mink Oil with a smidge of bees wax to stiffen and his discovery, which is a super slick all natural food grade additive. Most anything that will not allow the fouling to harden will work with a tight patch/ball combo. Last week I shot 30 straight out of the .36. Last load was as easy as the first. Tight combo and lots of grease/tallow lube is the key. My squirrel guns may get 5 shots in 5 mins as we’ve lots of squirrels around here. For my deer guns I go more for first shot accuracy and don’t care about reload ease so I use less lube but I do use the same lube for all as range time is hunting prescribe so I don’t like variables.

Also, use precut if you like, it’s just as HC. Strips were very common in the rural south so I use that.
Ok, I have a brand new 8 oz can of mink oil. I also have a lot of beez wax and olive oil. So, can I put 8 ounces of mink oil, ?? ounces of beezwax, and ?? ounces of olive oil in a pot and melt? And would that be in weight or volume? Thanks for your help Bob.
 
Ok, I have a brand new 8 oz can of mink oil. I also have a lot of beez wax and olive oil. So, can I put 8 ounces of mink oil, ?? ounces of beezwax, and ?? ounces of olive oil in a pot and melt? And would that be in weight or volume? Thanks for your help Bob.

I’ll PM you so we don’t hijack.
 
He asked me not to spread it around, I’m not sure why, but he’s 80 and I’ll respect his request but it’s no huge secret overall. Mostly Mink Oil with a smidge of bees wax to stiffen and his discovery, which is a super slick all natural food grade additive. Most anything that will not allow the fouling to harden will work with a tight patch/ball combo. Last week I shot 30 straight out of the .36. Last load was as easy as the first. Tight combo and lots of grease/tallow lube is the key. My squirrel guns may get 5 shots in 5 mins as we’ve lots of squirrels around here. For my deer guns I go more for first shot accuracy and don’t care about reload ease so I use less lube but I do use the same lube for all as range time is hunting prescribe so I don’t like variables.

Also, use precut if you like, it’s just as HC. Strips were very common in the rural south so I use that.
Another quick question: what is your go to deer gun cal and maximum distance?
 
I use the blade on my Gerber multi tool. It's razor sharp. I use a loading block when I hunt so cut the patch material when I load the block so no need to take a knife with me while hunting. I do have a deer gutting knife that I could use in a pinch to cut patch material though.
 
IMHO a good patch knife should first take and keep a fine edge and not be overly large. The blade should have a flat grind on at least one side to get the blade closer to the muzzle.
 
Of late, one knife does it all for me. Easy access, manageable size, and the ability to hold “shaving-sharp” edge is important.
7C48DDBF-3B58-42EF-8F80-56C8D75D6F0D.jpegAFDF7236-26FB-43D4-BABA-FB7A88E0FAEF.jpeg
 
I use my belt knife when hunting. At the range I pull out my hc/pc Buck stockman and use one of the short blades and just leave it on the bench with the rest of the stuff. I never did get around to getting a patch knife even years ago when I did rondys.
 
Years ago I made some knives for backpackers in Idaho. Very careful to keep the weight under one and 3/4 ounce. A friend called me and said he had just field dressed two deer with one of them .. and no sharpening required. Good, old-fashioned carbon steel at 58 Rockwell. I carried one for years as a [patch knife]. Polecat
 
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