Past one scary part. LH Pecatonica precarve

[Kansas Kid]

Barrel bottomed in stock and bare lock plate inlet. The pre inlets were really close so not any room to move parts. Looks good so far. Need to set barrel back now, which is why I went with a straight barrel.

This is going to be a L/H late Lancaster 40cal percussion rifle with 13/16 GM barrel.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Looks good although I would remove more wood from the lock panel before inletting the lock so there is less wood to dig in to. One thing about historical accuracy KK, by the percussion period and even late flint period, Lancaster gunsmiths were not using 18th century locks, which Silers are based on. The flintlock should be an English import or one made by the new local PA makers, which were mostly copies of English export locks. Here is a link to a late flint Lancaster rifle. https://www.morphyauctions.com/jamesdjulia/item/2337-358/

 

[Kansas Kid]

Thanks Dave.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Got the barrel set back and all the lock guts inlet, now for the tang. I had a scrap I used to set the barrel back and thought it might be a good idea to install the breech plug in it so I don’t have to handle the long barrel while inletting the plug/tang.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Wish I had one of those in my garage....
Nice!

 

[dave_person]

Hi KK,
I have to eat my previous words about locks. I was paging through the latest edition of Kindig's "Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle in its Golden Age" and lo and behold there was a Melchior Fordney rifle with a lock that looks a lot like a Siler. Most of the other Fordney examples had later English-style locks but not that one. As I usually do when I find I am wrong, I just looked at the photos and grunted "hmmm".

dave

 

[Carbon 6]

I'm rooting for you KK. Cant wait to see the final product.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Thanks guys. If folks don’t know the story of Melchoir Fordney they should check it out. Got the tang bent and inlet today. Only took about 7 hours but looks good and tight. I’ll have to thank forum member Bill Raby as I used tips from his videos.

Dave, I assume it was a Flint?

 

[Westbrook]

Lookin' good Lefty!

 

[Pete G]

Hi KK,
I have to eat my previous words about locks. I was paging through the latest edition of Kindig's "Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle in its Golden Age" and lo and behold there was a Melchior Fordney rifle with a lock that looks a lot like a Siler. Most of the other Fordney examples had later English-style locks but not that one. As I usually do when I find I am wrong, I just looked at the photos and grunted "hmmm".

dave

I've learned to never say never.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Been slow the last few days as it’s been hot and not feeling well. Cooler today so it’s on to the tedious job of making dovetails for underlugs. Important tools for me include 1.75 reading glasses, magnifying light , extra sharp cold chisel and patience. Personally I don’t see how they built anything indoors years ago with the poor lighting they had.

Don’t throw rocks at my rear sight.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Using a jewelers file to start your scarf cuts

 

[Kansas Kid]

Lock bolts installed. Actually got the front one between the barrel and rod hole, so pretty happy with that.

 

[45man]

Looks good. I can't wait to see if finished and shooting.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Thanks, trying to decide if I should file a belly in the bottom area of the side plate before inletting. Gonna work on rod pipes today.

 

[Pete G]

Leave the side plate flat.

 

[dave_person]

Hi KK,
Are you using an original gun, school, or maker as inspiration? If yes, what did those old makers do and does it fit your current design? If you decide to leave the bottom flat, which based on the shape may be the only thing you can do, I suggest filing a very slight belly on the bottom such that the height of the arc is directly under the rear lock bolt. What I am describing is a very, very slight curve that will look flat from a distance. The current plate creates an illusion such that the width is thickening toward the rear. That is because the width of the plate is widest at the bolt and has little length left to the rear to taper it down. Doing what I described will resolve that illusion making the bottom look straight when in fact it has a very slight curve.

dave

 

[Kansas Kid]

That’s kind of what I was thinking, I had another different style but it already had lock bolt holes in it that didn’t work for me.

Pete ; I plan to leave it flat but arch the bottom edge some.

 

[dave_person]

Hi KK,
Remember, I am suggesting a very subtle curve that is almost not detectable unless you put a straight edge against it. Good luck.

dave

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

you go man!