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One lock bolt or two?

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Sidney Smith

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When you build a flintlock, do you use one lock bolt or two? So far, simply for the ease of building, I've only used one. Im on my third build and am considering using a second lock bolt, however I'm not sure.

I must say I've never had issues using just one lock bolt. In fact, both of my factory build guns (a Lyman flintock, and a TC Renegade percussion) have only one lock bolt, and they run just fine.

What is your opinion on this matter?
 
Early rifles would have two in most cases. Later firearms tend to have just one. Not having the forward lock bolt reduces the likelihood that the forward bolt will interfere with the ramrod.
 
I own both and personally have never seen any difference in shooting performance or durability. A proper fitment of the lock to the stock mortise, IMO, is more important. I choice of one or two bolts for me is determined by authenticity to a particular style of rifle.
 
If you don't want to use two bolts on a two-bolt style sideplate, just solder a cut-off bolt head in the front sideplate hole. If you want the challenge, be sure to angle the lock layout so the front hole will be in the web right under the barrel.

That layout angle will also angle the lock tail downward to help prevent the humpbacked wrist look of some rifles. That is why the Chambers Dale Johnson Siler lock was developed. It has the tail dropped an eighth of an inch to help flow through the wrist.
 
I had also thought of the dummy lock bolt design. My TVM Lancaster kit that I bought many years ago, actually came with a bolt that was cut off to around 3/16ths inch. Just enough thread to run into the stock with a little epoxy, just to give the look of a two lock bolt system.

My Varner inspired .32 caliber might be better served with this system as there is not a lot of room in the web between the barrel and ramrod channels.
 
HI,
A single lock bolt became popular during the very late 18th century. Before then, 2 bolts were used so that the bolster was pulled in tightly against the barrel preventing any powder flash from charring wood behind the lock plate. When a single bolt became the fashion, the quality of the lock mortice inletting also improved so the fit to the barrel was perfect. However, makers usually brazed a small hook shaped lug on the inside of the lock plate where the forward bolt would normally be, that hooked into the head of a stout screw or stud within the lock mortice. The famous Verner uses two lock bolts as well as a hook tang and breech and barrel keys rather than pins.

dave
 
If you want the challenge, be sure to angle the lock layout so the front hole will be in the web right under the barrel.

Or drill the bolt hole in the lock in the right location up front?
 
My flintlocks have two lock bolts on the earlier guns with larger locks. But my SMR has only one bolt. With a percussion the hammer hits on a drum or snail that's part of the barrel. But a flint lock has the cock striking the lock itself avoiding even the slight torquing forces a percussion might produce. This means One lock bolt on a flintlock gives all the strength the lock needs.
 
This again is a perfect reason for a bit of glass bedding under the lock at the base of the barrel and tang. Doesn't hurt for a bit under each end of the lock plate as well. This makes three reinforced hard points for the lock plate to draw up against as well as the barrel wall at the bolster.
 
As above, but the front lock bolt will also lend strength to the area, just as the tang bolt going all the way through to the trigger plate help with vertical strength.
 
I ended up putting in the second lock bolt. Was actually fairly easy to do, and looks good with my home made copy of a Verner styled side plate.
 
It seems to me that the lock area is already bereft of wood strength without drilling any more holes in it.
Removable screws need clearance and are not the same as bedded steel pins and screws used for stock reinforcement. I would much rather reinforce with glass bedding that fills up some of these voids and form fits the various parts closer than you can ever chisel and scrape them in. It also makes the wood it covers impervious to oil soak.
My thoughts are that fit and bedding will be superior in strength, over the long haul, to another cross bolt with it's necessary clearance's to make it removable.
 
I don't know..., My old Pedersoli Frontier had a single lock bolt, but the Italians thought this risky so they put a wood screw through the lock plate in front of the bend of the frizzen spring. They did the same with my trade gun. BUT my muskets (Italian, Jap, and India Origin) and other trade gun all have two lock bolts.
My Cabin Creek PA Mountain Rifle has two bolts. My .40 flinter has one. The TC's have one, the CVA's I own have two.
GERMANIC CHARACTER SHRUG.jpg

LD
 
I am not fond of the single lock bolt, but I haven' seen any long term problem with them. As mentioned above I have accru-glassed them to have a three point base, mostly for the kit guns where an inexperienced builder removed too much material.
 
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