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old CVA kit

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I had a CVA kit given to me. the .45 caliber rifle was missing a few parts but that was easy to fix. I built it up for my children to shoot. Turns out to be a good shooter. I use a .440 roundball and a .010 patch with Wonderlube. Accurate enough for me.

Yup, did the same thing. Cut the barrel down to 24". Made a very handy trainer rifle for my sons and a couple of other kids. Just wish I had had the skills required to shorten the butt stock to about a 12" or so length of pull.
 
Years ago I had an old kit built CVA, just a cheapy. But that sucker would evermore shoot! It also took deer very well.
 
Everyone else seems to have better luck with CVA than I did. My first 2 kits were a derringer and Kentucky pistol. The derringer leaked gas between the breechplug and barrel but shot ok. The pistol had a terrible lock that never worked right. I traded both of them and never missed either.
Speaking of the lock, this kit has the OLD style lock in it.
They were notorious for wearing out rapidly because the tumbler does not have a bridle on the end furthest from the lockplate.
The later CVA locks had a bridle (bridge) that has a hole in it for a projection (axle) on the tumbler to rotate in.

Because the lockplates on these locks are not hardened and a very heavy force from the mainspring is trying to twist the tumbler in the hole in the lock plate it is very important to make sure that there is adequate lubrication.
Even dunking the whole lock into a bowl of 90 weight automotive gear oil that is used in differentials and then wiping the oil off of any exposed surface isn't going too far. (In fact, the 90 weight oil has EPL (Extreme Pressure Lubricant) additives that will greatly reduce wear in the CVA lock).

The only caution is, if the lock is going to be browned or blued, don't lubricate the lock until after the browning or bluing has been done. It must be totally oil free for these surface treatments.
 
I built/put together a .45 cal. CVA "Kentucky" Rifle kit back in the late 1980's.
It was a good shooter/"tack driver".

I could see better back then. Broom sticks were an "Easy Kill" at 100 yards.
(1 inch broom stick at 100 yards looked to be the same width as the front sight blade. Just lined them up - easy shot.)

If memory serves, it liked 70 grains FFg and 110 grains Fg real DuPont Black Powder the best, using a .440 PRB. (no over powder wad)
I remember using pre-lubed CVA patches in it.

I kinda wish I still had that one.
 
Hello Tom,

I built one about 20 years ago, turn out pretty nice & really shot well (1:66 twist).
I traded even for a .58 Big Bore Mountain Rifle, many times I wish I'd just kept it.
My son is doing a later model now, .45 cal. but 1:48 twist. We'll see how that one shoots.

AntiqueSledMan.
 
Thats where my journey began in 1977, just recently aquirred a built up one and its a shooter. I tarted it up and disguised the two piece stock, a great way to recapture the fun of where I started. Ive been through about 30 long guns in my background usualy trading off one for another
 
When you stain the wood, use an alcohol base or water base stain like the kind that Birchwood Casey makes.
Do not use a oil based stain like Minwax. The Beechwood the stock is made from will not absorb the stain and you will end up with a very, very light colored stock that IMO looks really bad.

The alcohol or water based stains on the other hand will penetrate the wood and if the color and darkness isn't dark enough you can apply more coats to get to the color/darkness you want.

This CVA double barrel kit stock was stained with 3 coats of Birchwood Casey Walnut stain (available at most gun stores and some Ace Hardware stores.)View attachment 24086
Beautiful color, and good to know. Thanks, Zonie!
UndeadPoet
 
Anybody built a CVA Kentucky Rifle kit? I bought this 45 cal kit last summer at a local flea market, unopened. The seller said he bought it from Gander Mtn, he thought, sometime in the early 70s. I have test fitted the parts together and all the work is pretty much done.Very little cleaning up of the inletting will be needed. Mostly just browning/bluing, staining wood, and assembly being required. I will brown the metal parts. I would like to add a patch box during the build. I bought it cheap.
View attachment 24043 View attachment 24044 View attachment 24045 View attachment 24046 View attachment 24047
Good luck! And, please post pics when you get it done (or as you go through the process).

UndeadPoet
 
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