OK, I just did it, bought my first flinter

Discussion in 'Flintlock Rifles' started by Two Elks, Mar 31, 2019.

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  1. Mar 31, 2019 #1

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

    32 Cal

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    I've shot cap for many years but always wanted to shoot and hunt with a flintlock, and just bought a new to me (in all ways) 50 caliber Lyman Trade Rifle in like-new shape. I read everything I could here and decided the LTR was the best choice for me. I paid close to "market", so I didn't get any bargain, but this starts a new adventure for me, and I'm looking forward to it. I know "zip" about flintlocks, but I read everything I can on this forum, and your experience and knowledge will help me a lot. I've got everything to learn: 2F or 3F, 4F for priming, how much to prime (1-3 grains ?), patch thickness, what kind of lube, holding steady thru the shot, and so much more. But I'm like a kid with a new toy, which I am and it is. So, now I'm making out my shopping list of "necessities" for my new arrival. I've caught the disease, wish me luck.
     
  2. Mar 31, 2019 #2

    Sidney Smith

    Sidney Smith

    Sidney Smith

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    Good luck, great choice in rifle. I've got a Lyman Great Plains rifle, and its a very nice gun. Shoots well.

    What caliber is yours? Do you plan to shoot round balls or conicals?

    One piece of advice I'll give you is, get good quality flints, preferably English or French amber. Stay away from those precut agate flints that resemble a kid's school eraser. They may be easy to clamp into the jaws of the cock, but are garbage otherwise. You'll get much better results using the ones I mentioned.

    Again, good luck, and take it steady., You'll hit a few bumps in the road, but don't get discouraged. Once you get the feel for a flintlock, and figure out its quirks, you will be the envy of the range. And I'd bet one shot and you will be hooked for life.
     
  3. Mar 31, 2019 #3

    mushka

    mushka

    mushka

    36 Cal.

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    I'm new to the flint guns too. Only thing extra I had to buy was a flash hole pick, and one of those priming chargers. Mine is a .54 cal and I use 3F as the main charge and prime with the same. One doesn't need a lot of priming for them I found out. Don't worry about the flash and smoke from the frizzin. Just watch the front sight. Same to me as shooting the caplock except it's easier to prime for me than to put the cap on the lock. Enjoy.
     
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  4. Mar 31, 2019 #4

    Zonie

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    Two Elks: To answer a couple of your questions, IMO you really don't need to mess with 4F powder. Most of us agree that 3F to prime the pan works just as well and using it has the advantage that it can also be used as a main powder charge without causing an argument about its safety.

    There isn't any set rule about how much prime you should put into the pan except the priming powder should be below the vent hole and it should cover the bottom of the pan.

    Having a "vent pick" is a good idea. Using it after loading the barrel but before priming the pan can help to make sure the vent hole is open and loosen up the powder charge just inside the vent. A large paper clip straightened out makes a nice vent pick and costs next to nothing.

    As for the main powder load, ball sizes, patch thickness, patch lubes etc, do the same thing you would if your were shooting one of your percussion guns.
     
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  5. Apr 1, 2019 #5

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

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    Thank you guys. Mine is the 50 caliber, and I intend to start out with PRB. Maybe later try a conical of some sort.
     
  6. Apr 1, 2019 #6

    shane a gress

    shane a gress

    shane a gress

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    You'll have lots of fun. There are 3 steps to learn.
    Load.
    Shoot.
    Repeat as needed.
     
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  7. Apr 1, 2019 #7

    EC121

    EC121

    EC121

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    Keep a rag in your pocket and wipe the frizzen and the flint every shot. Removing the fouling will help prevent slow fires. A wet thumb will work, but flints can draw blood. You'll get cut and never feel it til you see red spots on things. I used to use a strip of patching. Then use it to load with when the current piece was used up and get a clean one for wiping.
    Personally, I use Swiss Null B for priming, and what ever my rifle uses for shooting. Because I have rifles in everything from a .36 to a .62 and all calibers in between plus a couple of smoothbores , I use 2F 0r 3F depending on the rifle.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2019
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  8. Apr 1, 2019 #8

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

    Two Elks

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    I think I'll start out with 60 grains of 3F for priming and main charge, .490 ball and .015 patch at 50 yards. I've ordered some .018 patches I'd like to try also. I'm thinking work up to 100 yards on the bench but probably 75 yards off hand.
     
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  9. Apr 1, 2019 #9

    Redstick Lee

    Redstick Lee

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    you've begun one of the most wonderful journeys out here Two Elks !

    my only REAL input is, don't forget the powder!
    and for primer, less is more........
    play with flint sizes and shapes until you find what your rifle prefers
    you mention being a Percussion shooter........just know that in a tight, Triple 7 will work just fine in your barrel AND pan, provided you're getting a decent spark.
     
  10. Apr 1, 2019 #10

    WV MZL HUNTER

    WV MZL HUNTER

    WV MZL HUNTER

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    I've been away for few years, but I to just got my first flintlock.
    Retiring in two weeks! Hope to shoot some? I got a .50 TVM
    Reading these post has already helped me
     
  11. Apr 1, 2019 #11

    old ugly

    old ugly

    old ugly

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    To me flintlock makes sense. I switch from caps 30 years ago and can’t imagine owning another caplock.
    I have 54 long gun, use 3f to both charge and prime, I use a twisted up pc of haywire for a vent pick and afixed a pc of brass to a screwdriver end to knap with. Not much extra invested to shoot flintlock.
    Once you get the hang of making it spark you will ever go back.
    Ou
    Tom
     
  12. Apr 1, 2019 #12

    Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave

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    Welcome to The Club You Three, you poor poor fellows have become the latest victims. Alas we have tried to warn you in the past. Ah well, the darkside welcomes all comers.
    :D
    LD
     
  13. Apr 1, 2019 #13

    Huntschool

    Huntschool

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    Two Elks:

    Welcome to the fray. Take your time and work up a good PRB load for your rifle and stuck with it. No need for those crazy bullet type things.... JMHO…..
     
  14. Apr 1, 2019 #14

    Sidney Smith

    Sidney Smith

    Sidney Smith

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    I'd also mention if you haven't already done so, pick up a mold and some lead and make your own ammunition. Nothing is more satisfying(at least to me) than knowing the ammunition you're shooting or hunting with was made by you......I have made my own ammo for decades. Have killed a few deer with my own lead as well.
     
  15. Apr 1, 2019 #15

    Gene L

    Gene L

    Gene L

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    I don't know how well the priming charger will work with 3F, probably OK. Something to think about. I'm sure someone here can answer this. It works well with 4F.
     
  16. Apr 1, 2019 #16

    Baxter

    Baxter

    Baxter

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    Like Zonie, I use 3f for both priming and main charge in .54 Lancaster and it works very well.
     
  17. Apr 1, 2019 #17

    Rifleman1776

    Rifleman1776

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    Others have answered most of your questions already. But none address the flinch issue. My advice is: don't fret over it. After a few shots you won't even notice the rifle going off. Concentrate on the target and trigger. The rest will just happen. You will be walking towards yer ded deer before you realize the gun went off. The only way it is such a big deal is it is so much fun to shoot flint.
     
  18. Apr 1, 2019 #18

    mushka

    mushka

    mushka

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    Gene L my priming charger works just fine with the 3F. No problems at all.
     
  19. Apr 1, 2019 #19

    Zonie

    Zonie

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    I guess I should mention, if someone is trying to use one of those "pan primers" that has a little tiny metal spout on it, they don't work very well with 3F powder.
    It is a bit too large to go thru their metering valve.
    I don't usually use one of them so I forgot to mention that.
     
  20. Apr 1, 2019 #20

    EC121

    EC121

    EC121

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    To help with the flinch use the best ear plugs you can get. Above NRR 30 or more. When on the range, I use them and muffs at the same time. For hunting I use the plugs only. I rarely ever heard deer enter a food plot so the plugs don't hurt a thing. You won't hear the strike and pan flash. You will also protect your hearing.
     

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