• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

Not your usual forum question.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bubba.50

Barefoot Hillbilly
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Messages
3,837
Reaction score
3,340
Bought a Tree Hawk stock to put together a New Englander with my extra parts.

Now my question, anybody have experience with removin’ camo finish from a tupperware stock? Don’t want the camo but also don’t wanta melt my stock either.
 
As many of you will remember, there was a time when cars came with painted wood dashboards. Using the right method, this isn't as hard to do as one might suspect.

When the surface is ready to start, apply a light colored paint like a light tan. After it has dried, this is followed with a dark coat of dark brown paint or as the video below will show, a dark oil based stain followed by dry brushing it to reveal the underlying light color. Then let it dry for a few days. Follow this with a few coats of clear "satin" lacquer.

Watch the video below to see how this is done.

Faced with a "camo" finish on a stock, I would definitely prefer the false wood grain look.



If you want something fancy, google "painted burl finish" or just watch this video. It shows how to create a false burl. Now I know that burl is not used for gunstocks but the tecniques he uses in this video can add a lot of interesting patterns to your false wood stock. This video takes about 15 minutes and I think you will find it interesting. In some parts, what looks like a disaster suddenly changes into some really nice looking wood grain.



Where else except on the Muzzleloading Forum can you learn so much? :thumb:

PS: I'm having difficulty getting the above links to work right. If you are having similar problems, put your cursor over the video window and right click. Select "Copy Video URL". Then, open another window or tab and paste the copied URL into it. That should start the video running in the new tab or window. Sorry about that.
 
Last edited:
Appreciate the responses but, if nobody has an answer to the question, no need to reply.

it’s a black plastic/synthetic/polymer stock that has been hydro-dipped. Was just wanting to know if anybody knew if it is just paint or somethhing else. And how to remove it without melting the stock. Zero interest in sanding it and zero interest in tryin to make it look like woodgrain.
 
Reading this got me interested enough to go search out what the water transfer tech really is. And I still don't know what you could use to remove it.

I'm presuming that you want to do a solvent removal with something that won't attack the base material. And I've only done enough reading to suspect your paint job is an ultra thin layer of a urethane. But I don't know how I could say that for sure and certain.

And if it is urethane, do you want to work with whatever solvent it takes to eat it up?
Man I just don't know.
 
Appreciate the responses but, if nobody has an answer to the question, no need to reply.

it’s a black plastic/synthetic/polymer stock that has been hydro-dipped. Was just wanting to know if anybody knew if it is just paint or somethhing else. And how to remove it without melting the stock. Zero interest in sanding it and zero interest in tryin to make it look like woodgrain.

Here are a couple suggestions




You could also try a light sanding, to break up the top clear coat and then use denatured alcohol, as the alcohol will quickly dissolve the hydro-print but will not cut through the top clear coat often applied to protect it. You also may want to try a quick test patch, in a hidden area, to make sure it doesn't not affect the material the stock is made form.
 
Reading this got me interested enough to go search out what the water transfer tech really is. And I still don't know what you could use to remove it.

I'm presuming that you want to do a solvent removal with something that won't attack the base material. And I've only done enough reading to suspect your paint job is an ultra thin layer of a urethane. But I don't know how I could say that for sure and certain.

And if it is urethane, do you want to work with whatever solvent it takes to eat it up?
Man I just don't know.

Though you offered no real help, at least somebody finally understood the question and I thank you for that.
 
Back
Top