Nosecap for Kibler SMR

[Big_Rubber_Duck]

Hello all,

Since i ordered my kibler smr, and before as well, I've been thinking of what I would potentially like to add to it. This will be my first kit build I will have done, and feel fairly confident about most aspects of getting it together. The one thing I am hesitant about is adding a nosecap. I think it'd look good/be appropriate, but I have never done it before and was wondering what advice or resources some of you could point me to. Im fairly certain that I do not want to do a pewter nosecap, that much I know. I am always open to pictures as well.

Thanks,
Duck

 

[tenngun]

Many SMR were made with out them
Many had them
The rifle might be all iron but the cap silver.
Pewter was rare on these guns
I saw several that had a copper shape laid on flat on the end of the wood
The Sody Dasiy style had a Diamond motif to the butt stock, reflected in the butt plate. Some times this was repeated in the fore stock, and right in to the nose cap.
Simple sheet metal was common, mostly long like the extended comb on the butt plate an
In short the sky is the limit.

 

[Scota@4570]

First build? Do a careful job and don't complicate anything. It is a very nice rifle as supplied.

 

[gemmer]

Jim says the thin profile of the fore stock at the muzzle will not accommodate a muzzle cap sold by builder's supply outfits.

 

[stikshooter]

So Jim is pointing out probably not a great idea for your ( 1st build)

 

[1BadDart]

I wasn't going to install a nose cap on my Virginia build, but after I cut the stock off, I didn't like it. I cut it back 1/2" from the muzzle. The hardware kit came with a sheet metal cap. After deciding how much muzzle reveal I wanted the cutting, chiseling, filing and sanding started. If you want a nose cap, go for it, just take your time and sneak up on it. That's what worked for me anyway.

 

[Vaino]

I've always made Mcaps from .040 thick sheet brass or steel if iron mounted, w/ a separate. soldereed in 1/8" thick end plate which is installed inside the sleeve. The cast, purchased Mcaps have slightly over 1/16" thick walls which on a very petite LR leave very little wood to attach to.

A form block is used to shape the "sleeve" and seeing the end plate fits inside the "sleeve", is filed to suit. I use high temp silver solder which is the same color as the brass sheet.

Both the sheet brass and sheet steel are punch press metals and the brass has to be annealed before forming. The sheet steel is low carbon and is used as is.

The Mcap is attached w/ epoxy and a copper rivet from the bbl's bottom flat inlet. Had a thin web crack for 8" from the muzzle, stained the crack , applied super glue, quickly inserted the waxed bbl and wrapped w/ surgical tubing ....came our fine, the crack was invisible because of the stain and rhe Mcap helped in preventing it ever cracking again. Always thought making Mcaps was a fun job.....Fred

 

[TraderVic]

I've been sort of wondering the same thing. I'm cured, at least for a first build - which is still in front of me.

 

[MSW]

i gave it some thought and i think at this point that i'll not do a nosecap ... the wood just won't support it at my skill level ... i'll be adding a man-in-the moon inlay (elk antler) and a toe plate of cow horn and elk antler, however.

i was advised not to do this as it might make the gun less saleable, but i'll be keeping this one. ... figured ash stock ... my first Kibler and i'm really impressed with his work ... a bit expensive but well owrth it...