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So I recently converted to not wiping between shots after umpteen years shooting muzzle loaders. Got sick and tired of the plugged breech area so I tried it after being stubborn for all these years.

Started with my little 36cal poor boy, percussion lock, drum, 36” GM BBL. used 3f Elephant .018 ticking .350 RB and new to me Hoppes #9 plus as recommended by a couple of seasoned shooters on here and who I recognize on other forums. Accuracy was not lacking either.

So for the non wipers what combinations are working for your flint and percussion guns?
Mainly lubes and techniques.

This is not a thread about I do or I don’t wipe, or should I or shouldn’t.
 
The wife and I use spit on pillow ticking. Her rifle (50 calibre) has a GRRW barrel and mine (40, 50, 58 calibre) are GM barrels on flint and percussion. We can shoot a match before any cleaning.
 
I have never wiped in 30 years. I use for patch lube equal parts of murphys, rubbing alcohol and peroxide.

I simply pour powder down, patched round ball with a damp patch.

Fleener
 
Since switching to Hoppes 9 Plus as a patch lube I don't have to swab between shots. Even a thirty round match isn't a problem and clean up (water and a drop of dish soap) at end of the day is easier. With a flinter I just make sure the touch hole is clear with a vent pick and the same with the nipple on a percussion gun.

I didn't mind wiping the bore between shots but it takes away from shooting time.

Jeff
 
I only shoot smoothbores now but never did any of that swabbing mumbo jumbo.

In my smoothbores to manage fouling I just add a grease cookie occasionally.
An os card, blob of lube and another card.
 
I have some guns that just don’t play well without wiping, but for those that do, use one of following.
  • For cold weather (below freezing) and warm weather, have had the best performance out of windshield washer fluid with a few ounces of Ballistols added per gallon. Use patches that are almost dripping. If hunting, put a slightly oversized felt wad on top of powder to avoid fouling it with fluid. A gallon batch will last a long time.
  • TOW mink oil would be my second choice. Works great as long as you don’t wait too long before reloading, especially when hot and dry. Wait too long (like maybe on woods walk) and will have to wipe.
  • Followed by Hoppies 9 for Blackpowder. Performance similar to windshield wiper fluid, just more expensive. Great for cleaning.
  • Never had much luck with MAP or various moose milk formulas (they are great for cleaning), but it may just be because once I found a few things that worked for me I didn’t experiment with other options as much.
Just as a footnote, for extreme accuracy (think target shooing over 100 yards) and serious hunting (where gun may stay loaded for days if not shot) I will wipe and use a dry patch. That is one of the beauties of muzzleloading, you load for the situation.
 
I’m a wipeir, but many are the time I’ve used spit patch or lard and fired multi times with out wiping.
Also have used a jag on my ram rod tip with a damp patch in front of the ball, thus ramming ball and wiping in one stroke. The same damp patch can be used five or six shots with out changing.
Humidity and temp can greatly change how long it takes before you have to wipe or risk sticking a ball.
 
Good info guys. I just wanted to add that I did try reduced dia jags with two angle cutting teeth on the end to avoid pushing fouling down my small bore guns. They helped but not to the degree I was looking for which is to be able to shoot a whole match with a novelty shoot thrown in.
 
I have been shooting flinters for around 44yrs never have wiped between shots. When it comes cleaning I just plug the touch hole slush around some hot water in the barrel till it runs out clear. Then run cleaning patches soaked in water till they come out clean. Let dry then oil.

Mike
 
I use either spit or mink oil in all my patch ball rifles, bar the .72 which has a greased felt wad over powder before a ballistol and water lubed patch and ball
 
Most liquid (wet) lubes are very good if you don't want to wipe. My standbys have been Hoppes for general, all around shooting and TOW mink oil for the bush. I usually load rather tight prb with any lube and have found that seating a tight prb pushes the last shots fouling down on top of the powder charge. Polishing the muzzles crown allows thick patching to go down rather easily without patch cutting.

While I patch with mattress ticking, duck, etc. on up to heavy .024" canvas, my favorite is the heavy canvas. It works extremely well in the majority of my guns and is easier to seat than most thinner materials. I don't ever wipe until all the shooting is concluded. I'm about to start experimenting with WWF as a patch lube.
 
I've been using Bore Butter with pillow ticking and a .490 round ball in my CVA Hawken and don't wipe between shots. I pretty much saturate the patch with the lube along wit a little spit or water and have shot about 30 times before noticing a little crud buildup about a 1/4 of the way down the barrel. When that happens I wet wipe about 1/2 way down the barrel which removes the crud ring and keep on shooting. With a drier patch the crud ring shows up a lot earlier and is a lot harder to get out. Not saying it will work for you but it works for me.
 
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