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Newbie from the North, looking for advices

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Hatless_

32 Cal
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Hello you all, I am looking to buy a Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock as my first gun. I had some prior shooting experience (although limited) but never a flintlock. Looked up some videos and have a basic understanding of how flintlock functions. I am probably going use it for mostly range shooting, and plan on making some paper cartridges to try out as well.
What accessories I should get? General tips I should know? Any advice is welcomed.
 
Rich's advice is the best advice for a new shooter but often difficult to find fellow flintlock shooters.

Always use black powder, never any of the substitutes.

You will need screwdrivers that fit the slots in the jaws and the various screws for routine maintenance.

Volumetric powder measure.

100% cotton patching of 0.015" thickness, preferably un lubricated.

Patch lubrication. To start, anything from spit, natural cooking oils, mixes of dish soap and water or water soluble oils and water will be fine to begin load development. And a container to hold the lubricating fluids unless you are using spit.

Powder flask, powder horn, or cap for the powder can to pour powder into the measure.

Proper sized pure lead balls approximately 0.010" smaller in diameter than the land to land diameter of the barrel.

Vernier calipers to do all the measurements of patch, ball and whatever else may need to be measured.

A vent pick of soft brass, copper or steel wire to keep the touch hole open. Dental flossing brushes work fine too.

Knapping tool to maintain the flint.

Spare flints.

Leather cut to hold the flint in the lock.

Proper sized jags, one sized full for cleaning and one undersized for maintaining the barrel at the range.

A leather hammer stall that covers the frizzen.

A flash guard that attaches to the pan that directs the flash from the pan away from the shooter nest to you on the side of the pan.

Safety glasses and hearing protection.

A range rod, I prefer steel or brass threaded for the jags.

There's more to be included to be sure such a container to hold all this equipment and a case for the rifle.

Adding: Short starter and ball puller that is collared for the ball caliber. (Thanks Larry)

Water is the best cleaning solution especially when a little dish soap is added. Use some sort of plug in the touch hole to keep the water from getting all over the stock when cleaning and wrap a towel around the wrist to collect any cleaning solvent anyway.

A good rust inhibiting lubricant to use when cleaning is complete to store the rifle. Store the cleaned and lubricated rifle muzzle down for a few days to keep the oils from accumulating in your rifles chambered breech.

Read a lot of the flint lock tips and threads here in the forum. A wealth of knowledge here.
 
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Welcome to the forum, love the opossum! You’ll be able to get all the info you need here, I’ll just add one thing, paper cartridges are for muskets, you’ll want to use patched round balls.
 
Hello you all, I am looking to buy a Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock as my first gun. I had some prior shooting experience (although limited) but never a flintlock. Looked up some videos and have a basic understanding of how flintlock functions. I am probably going use it for mostly range shooting, and plan on making some paper cartridges to try out as well.
What accessories I should get? General tips I should know? Any advice is welcomed.
G1758 has a good list! I want to add........ starter and I prefer a T versus a ball . The T is easier on the palm. You will need a good ball puller.
Welcome to flint shooting.
Larry
 
Hello you all, I am looking to buy a Pedersoli Kentucky flintlock as my first gun. I had some prior shooting experience (although limited) but never a flintlock. Looked up some videos and have a basic understanding of how flintlock functions. I am probably going use it for mostly range shooting, and plan on making some paper cartridges to try out as well.
What accessories I should get? General tips I should know? Any advice is welcomed.
Here I go again, preaching; please go to NMLRA website and look at the up-dated book by Eric Bye; Flintlocks, A Guide To Their Use and Appreciation. It's full of flintlock lore and practical tips. (I have no connection with the sale of this book, just an owner that sees much useful stuff in it!) My apologies to anyone that is bored seeing me tout this book again! If Mr. Bye is reading this, how's about sending me a copy of the up-dated? :)
 
Hi, thanks for everyone's kind advice, sounds like there are a lot of prep work to operate and maintain a flintlock but that's why I like it so much. I'll start looking for accessories as per your pointers, and do some catchup readings. Obviously I don't want to head to a range with a gun that doesn't fires, or worse one that fires when I don't want it to.

Any further comments are also appreciated. Once again thanks for the help and looking forward to get into this community!
 
I recently took a short class on stick welding. The instructor told us that if we're having trouble striking an arc, it sometimes helps to cuss at it. Amazingly, it helps sometimes.

But I think flintlocks are more sensitive. The more I cuss at it, the worse it behaves. Mine like me to be slow, patient, deliberate and consistent in my loading procedures before they give me any reliability. If I do everything just right, it will go off... Most of the time.

I'm no expert on flintlocks -- far from it. Definitely more of a newbie. But I own a Pedersoli Kentucky .50 and have both flint (original) and percussion locks for it. So I'm speaking from some experience with that particular gun, albeit still rather limited.

I really enjoy that rifle. At first, the flints were resting against the frizzen in half-cock. So I chipped the back of them so that they'd set back just a bit and saw MUCH better pan ignition. For both my Kentucky and my Trade Gun (also Pedersoli), the pan ignites the main charge best when I can see a grain or two of powder through the flash hole. I hear this usually creates a fuse effect, slowing ignition. But it has helped mine considerably. Mind you, there's still a gap between the priming charge and the main charge. But it's small. I can certainly create that fuse effect by cramming powder into the vent from the pan. And, yes, that stinks. But if I just let the powder settle down to where I can see it, it helps a ton -- prob 90% igition & fast too. Maybe it's a Pedersoli thing (chambered breach?). Maybe it's just my guns. Who knows? Probably best to start with the more common advice of just tapping the lock a few times and calling it good. If that fails, then experiment until you find something that works.

So, when loading, I start by wiping the frizzen, then the pan, then the underside of the flint & then clear the flash channel with a pick, assuming this isn't the first shot of the day. If it is the first shot, then I'll start by sparking the lock one time. Why? Don't know. It just works best if I click the lock once & see that spark before loading. Missed a turkey last year when the lock clicked & failed to ignite the main charge (trade gun). Never had that happen when I click the lock once -- always get ignition of the pan the first time, even in damp marshy conditions.

Only after doing those things do I pour the main charge in the barrel. Then I want to see a grain or two of powder through that vent & I'll rap the side of the lock until I see it. This is much easier with homemade powder since it's more gray than black & shows up easier in the dark hole of the vent. But even if I can't see commercial powder in the vent, I'll use the vent pick to feel for it. Then I'll load my patched ball, prime & close the frizzen.

One of the really nice things about the Pedersoli rifles is that you can usually swap back/forth from flint to percussion if you buy an extra lock for it. I think you can even buy a kentucky pistol and use the lock from that, or a couple other models. Mine came with a flintlock and I wasn't having much luck with it at first. I thought the rifle wasn't very accurate. But after putting a percussion lock on it, I found out that it wasn't the rifle's fault at all -- it was all me. The rifle is VERY accurate. I am the problem. With the percussion lock, I was then able to sight it in better & then switch back to a flintlock when I was ready to work on that skill again. For now, I only hunt with the Kentucky rifle with the percussion lock on it and I appreciate being able to choose how I want to use the rifle based on what I'm doing.

Be prepared for some frustrations and a learning curve. Some people seem to be able to pick one up and shoot it just fine without much fuss. I'm not one of those people. I still flinch -- even the slight delay of good ignition is enough for my brain to anticipate the recoil & move the sights. Recently, it took me about 5 shots to hit a beer can at only 25 yards and I rested on a tire for 3 of those shots. Meanwhile, with the percussion lock, I can hit a 10" gong at 90 yards from a seated position most of the time so I know it's just the flintlock. Hope you have an easier time with it. Or, maybe, I hope you enjoy the challenge. As my son once told me, "It's fun to hit something with a .22. But it's fun with a flintlock whether I hit it or not."
 
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