Newb with 1st question, trigger won't stay cocked

[texasrimfirenut]

I got these guns from my father's estate. The shorter one, on top, won't stay cocked back. I could of sworn it did before I brought it home. Also this morning I got it to stay back fully cocked one time and have no idea why it did.As you can see it will 1/2 cock and stay.

Any idea where to start on looking into this and where one would get parts if needed?

I know its 44 cal. has Italy stamped on it but know nothing else.

Thanks for any help getting this newb started out in the right direction.

https://imgur.com/gallery/Qw4jZ76

 

[sawyer04]

Those pistols have spring problems sometimes, just have to grab a screwdriver and tear it down. likely a trigger spring mounted under trigger guard, but without a tear down it is hard to tell. I will suggest the weapons be loaded with the cylinder out on a loading stand. Sometimes the brass frames loosen up and I contribute that to continuous loading with the loading leaver pressing the bullet in the cylinder.

 

[Pete G]

Sorry for your loss.

Probably requires disassembly and thorough cleaning, which will also allow inspection for worn parts.

 

[texasrimfirenut]

Thanks gentlemen, I'll get started with a tear down and thorough cleaning and see if I can find anything broke. I appreciate the help.

 

[Zonie]

A few words of advice about taking the pistol's apart.

Although the screws look like they are the same, some of them are slightly different in length so it's a good idea to screw them back into the holes they came out of after the part they were holding are removed.

Start with the two screws on either side of the hammer and then the one screw on the bottom of the grip. With these removed, the grip strap and grip will pull off.
Loosen but don't remove the screw that holds the mainspring in place. Then, rotate the mainspring sideways slightly to disengage it from the hammer.

Remove the screws on the bottom of the trigger guard and take it off.

Under the trigger guard you will see a flat, two bladed spring. Pay special attention to the way it is resting and how the two leaves of the spring are located. The spring is not symmetrical and if it is put back in place upside down the trigger and cylinder lock won't work.

Remove the trigger screw and the trigger. This will also allow the cylinder lock to be removed.

Remove the big screw that the hammer pivots on. Carefully slide the hammer downward and out of the frame. Note: the cylinder hand that rotates the cylinder is attached to the hammer and it will pull out of the frame along with the hammer. There should be a small spring on the back of the cylinder hand. This little spring will often break and if it does break the cylinder hand won't reliably rotate the cylinder. It has nothing to do with the hammer staying fully cocked.

Clean off any old, dried grease or oil from the parts, re-oil with a light weight gun oil and things should be ready to go back together.

While the parts are out of the gun look at the notches on the front of the hammer. These should be sharp without any chips in them.
Look at the spur on the upper end of the trigger. This should also be sharp, not rounded off. It is what engages the notches in the hammer to hold the gun at half and full cock.

If everything looks good, reassemble the gun and see if cleaning it up fixed the problem.

Spare parts for your gun can be bought from Dixie Gun Works. They might need a bit of "fitting" but they should do the job if they are needed.

 

[texasrimfirenut]

A few words of advice about taking the pistol's apart.

Although the screws look like they are the same, some of them are slightly different in length so it's a good idea to screw them back into the holes they came out of after the part they were holding are removed.

Start with the two screws on either side of the hammer and then the one screw on the bottom of the grip. With these removed, the grip strap and grip will pull off.
Loosen but don't remove the screw that holds the mainspring in place. Then, rotate the mainspring sideways slightly to disengage it from the hammer.

Remove the screws on the bottom of the trigger guard and take it off.

Under the trigger guard you will see a flat, two bladed spring. Pay special attention to the way it is resting and how the two leaves of the spring are located. The spring is not symmetrical and if it is put back in place upside down the trigger and cylinder lock won't work.

Remove the trigger screw and the trigger. This will also allow the cylinder lock to be removed.

Remove the big screw that the hammer pivots on. Carefully slide the hammer downward and out of the frame. Note: the cylinder hand that rotates the cylinder is attached to the hammer and it will pull out of the frame along with the hammer. There should be a small spring on the back of the cylinder hand. This little spring will often break and if it does break the cylinder hand won't reliably rotate the cylinder. It has nothing to do with the hammer staying fully cocked.

Clean off any old, dried grease or oil from the parts, re-oil with a light weight gun oil and things should be ready to go back together.

While the parts are out of the gun look at the notches on the front of the hammer. These should be sharp without any chips in them.
Look at the spur on the upper end of the trigger. This should also be sharp, not rounded off. It is what engages the notches in the hammer to hold the gun at half and full cock.

If everything looks good, reassemble the gun and see if cleaning it up fixed the problem.

Spare parts for your gun can be bought from Dixie Gun Works. They might need a bit of "fitting" but they should do the job if they are needed.

Thank you very much for this info and cautions. I am going to wait until I have a few settled hours to get on this. Again I appreciate this info very much!

 

[sawyer04]

Spare parts for your gun can be bought from Dixie Gun Works. They might need a bit of "fitting" but they should do the job if they are needed.

Great advise. I have a couple of old Palimo pistols by Dixie Gun Works that have been around since the 70's. It is a good way to learn a little smithing. If you have to purchase parts they will probably need modifying some. I always purchase twice or three times the parts I need in case of a mishap. common sense and patience and the old weapons will be as good as new.