New Wheellock

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rickystl

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Hi Feltwad. Those are nice looking wheellocks.

Pyrite can be frustrating to use. You can get anywhere from say 1-6 shots off before the pyrite crumbles. Back in the period there must have been small groups that would spend the day making pyrite pieces similar to flint knapping factories. LOL Anyway, the problem with pyrite is that it crumbles. You never know how many shots you will get off.
Flint is too hard and will wear the grooves of the wheel down - quickly !
These Fire Steel strikers work great. They don't crumple. They are harder than pyrite, but still much softer than the wheel. And really spark !! You want the "square" ones. Just cut off a piece about 1" long or so and fit it to the jaws with a piece of leather. BUT !! Cut it in a safe place as sparks go everywhere. You can do it with a hacksaw, but an easier way is to buy a cutting wheel/blade for your bench grinder that is used to cut tile. Yes, sparks will go everywhere, but only for about three seconds. LOL You can use a cookie sheet with some water under the wheel to catch most of the sparks. A one inch piece will last a long time. And as it wears down, just re-adjust the length in the jaws. But again, make sure you order the "square" ones.

Rick
 

rickystl

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LOL. Yes, give these a try. Think you will like the results.
 

Canute Rex

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Hi Feltwad,

Nice work!

I use iron pyrite that I got from eBay. Be forewarned: It all comes from China, and they always exaggerate the size. If they say 8-10mm the cubes will be 6-8mm; 10-12mm will be 8-10mm, and so on. You'll see polished looking perfect golden cubes of pyrite from Spain, but those are for mineral collectors and way too expensive to eat up in a wheellock.

I get good ignition from pyrite. I tried the firestarter sticks and got a hot looking spark that didn't do anything. Maybe there are different brands that work better. I hadn't seen the square ones, so who knows?

Don't be tempted to crank the jaws super tight on the pyrite. Use leather, not lead, and remember that the pyrite doesn't hammer anything like a flint. One thing that helps me is giving the face of the pyrite a quick scrape with a steel edge just before lowering it onto the pan cover. Gets the powder gak off of it. Also, how sharp is the rear edge of the pan cover? If it is too blunt/thick the pyrite drops a ways before hitting the wheel and that can break it and/or make for poor ignition.

The main problem I have seen on other people's locks is inadequate down-pressure on the pyrite. This can be from the external dog spring being too weak or the angle and alignment of the jaws to the wheel being wrong. Sometimes it is that the projections on the base of the dog that contact the spring are in slightly the wrong place or too short. That is assuming your wheel is hard enough to begin with. The Bolek lock I got has a dog spring like a bear trap and really good geometry. Even the width of the cavity in the pan can be an issue. Too narrow and the jaws or the leather or a misaligned bit of pyrite can hang up on the edge.

It's destructive of the lock to use flint. The wheel has to fit the notch in the pan very closely so the prime doesn't leak out. That means the wheel can't wear very much. That means the stone involved has to be softer than the steel. With a flintlock the flint is knocking bits/sparks off the steel. With a wheellock the steel is knocking bits/sparks off the pyrite.

I'm still a wheellock beginner myself, climbing up a steep learning curve and eating humble pie on a regular schedule, so don't take my word as great wisdom.
 

cw1873

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I'll second that. I use pyrite which I dug up myself and cut into cubes. I made the lock myself and I have to use my off hand to give the cock a little more pressure for a good spark. I think the toe on my cock is not quite right, so I will have to alter it a bit.

The pyrite is quite variable with how long it will last, some just crumble with the first strike, some will give a dozen or more shots. All part of the fun of old tools....[/QUOTE]
 
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