I kind of follow this guideline. Not sure where I got it maybe even this forum.
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- Thread starter Omahkapi'si
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Nice!
Coolhand
Ozark Mt. Daredevil
I have seen that picture before. I tried using it that way and it did bring up the point of aim. I can just not get a consistent group that way. I can’t hold still very well.
Others may have better advice. I find I shoot best when I don’t overthink it. And hold, hold, hold after the shot. If I don’t, I can see the difference on the target every time.
really really like it. Let us know how it shoots. Thank you for posting
Welcome from Pa.
With my percussion rifle, I dry patch the bore before I shoot it, jts to get any leftover ballistol out before I put powder in there. Then I fire a cap off just to clear the channel.
With a flintlock I will want to dry patch the bore same way, but do you guys fire off powder in the pan to clear the flash hole or just load and fire?
With a flintlock I will want to dry patch the bore same way, but do you guys fire off powder in the pan to clear the flash hole or just load and fire?
Coolhand
Ozark Mt. Daredevil
I have never fired a flash in the pan berore I shoot. I have also never fired caps on any of the cap locks I have owned before I shoot. If you take the vent hole liner out you will see before you shoot. A swab with a Qtip usually tells me if there is any oil or what not in the breech.
What are you guys using ot plug the flash hole with when you clean the barrel? I stuck a toothpick in there but still had gunk leaking out, no big deal except I don't want it on parts of the lock and stock.
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I use a toothpick pushed in tight. Then I wrap an old rag/tee shirt tightly around that area going behind and in front of the toothpick to catch any liquid that might come out. Ain’t had any liquid get on the stock using this method. I also remove the lock each time for cleaning because I always shoot enough to get everything dirty.
Also, removing the lock makes is easier to wrap the rag around the barrel and stock so’s not to get any gunk where it don’t belong.
Oh, and just wait till you start making your own flints!
Wooden BBQ Skewers…. Tapped in with a wooden crab mallet… Don’t leak a drop.
They’re not as likely to break off in the touch hole as a tooth pick..
It really depends on the touch hole size… and which seals best.
The crab mallet doubles as my short starter too..
They’re not as likely to break off in the touch hole as a tooth pick..
It really depends on the touch hole size… and which seals best.
The crab mallet doubles as my short starter too..
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Wooden BBQ Skewers…. Tapped in with a wooden crab mallet… Don’t leak a drop.
They’re not as likely to break off in the touch hole as a tooth pick..
It really depends on the touch hole size… and which seals best.
The crab mallet doubles as my short starter too..
What smo says, I use bamboo skewers from Amazon that I use for cooking.
Cut it off to a suitable length and lightly tap it into the vent hole, I use a rawhide hammer. Do not leak, tough as all get out and have not broken one yet.
I have used the wooden bamboo skewers and at times toothpicks depending on the diameter of the touch hole. At historical reenactments, I have even used a twig from the ground whittled to fit the touch hole. Green twigs work best.
At home and at a rifle range, I remove the lock and use the rare-earth magnet with a piece of the black plastic electrical tape as a gasket to block the touch hole. The stronger the attachment grip the better. Look for neodymium magnets. These work best on touch holes that do not have a screwdriver slot. Leakage occurs at the edges of the screwdriver slot. The touch hole liner also needs to be flush with the surface of the barrel flat in order for the gasket to seal off the touch hole. Even with a perfect fit, it is best to use a rag to catch any leaks that might and likely will occur.
Even better is the flush tube kit sold by @davec2 at THE LUCKY BAG (click on the link previous). He uses better gasket material on his magnets and with the flush tube, the breech and flash channel can be vigorously flushed for full removal of the fouling at the breech.
At home and at a rifle range, I remove the lock and use the rare-earth magnet with a piece of the black plastic electrical tape as a gasket to block the touch hole. The stronger the attachment grip the better. Look for neodymium magnets. These work best on touch holes that do not have a screwdriver slot. Leakage occurs at the edges of the screwdriver slot. The touch hole liner also needs to be flush with the surface of the barrel flat in order for the gasket to seal off the touch hole. Even with a perfect fit, it is best to use a rag to catch any leaks that might and likely will occur.
Even better is the flush tube kit sold by @davec2 at THE LUCKY BAG (click on the link previous). He uses better gasket material on his magnets and with the flush tube, the breech and flash channel can be vigorously flushed for full removal of the fouling at the breech.
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