New to muzzle loading, several questions.

[renegadehunter]

When leaving it loaded I like to seal the barrel and nipple off. Some simple black electrical tape over the muzzle, which can be left on and won't effect accuracy when shot, and then I put a foam earplug over the nipple and set the hammer down on it. Last year I left it loaded for over 3 months like this and it went off fine and hit POA when I emptied it (real black powder). I do live in a pretty low humidity area though.
It is also good to do something like this to signal that the gun is loaded. I've actually been using either electrician's red phase tape (basically same as black electrical tape) or some red adhesive TC stickers that I found at a local Sportsman's Warehouse made just for taping over the end of the barrel. The red tape over the bore and the yellow foam earplug signal to me that the gun is loaded, and my family also knows that it means it's loaded.

 

[TFoley]

Bore Butter is a lubricant, mostly used with bullets - not balls - that have grease grooves. It is categorically NOT a cleaner.

 

[tenngun]

In loading, there are lots of good you tube vids, but some god awful and even dangerous.
Look up on line Track Of The Wolf, or log cabin sport shop, or jedidiah Starr, read though some of the book offerings on loading and care of your gun. Old books like Sam Fallada or Norton or older Ned Roberts books are great guides.
Burned black powder is corrosive. Burned pyrodex is worse, but don’t let that scare you, both clean easy, just don’t skimp and don’t put it off.
You have came to the dark side my friend, ‘Abandon hope ye who enter here’.

 

[Carbon 6]

Is it supposed to be a medium gray color, and the consistency of crumbled dry dirt?.

Yes, that's what Pyrodex looks like.

Is there a way to prevent the pin from backing out?.

Yes, the tennon (bracket as you call it) slot needs to be tightened by slightly bending it closed. (Slightly) so that the pin fits snug but goes through.

Should that bracket that dovetails into the barrel that the pin goes through mate so loose to the barrel that it falls out without the stock being on,or should it fit tight like a dovetail sight?

It should be tight.

I never loaded any balls in it yet,but I plan to.I watch videos on YouTube,and most people don't seen to lube their patch.Why is this? Does the patch need lubed?

Patches need to be lubed, to make them load easy, reduce hard fouling and prevent patch burning. The patches that you thought you saw people using without lubing them were likely pre-lubed.

,and if it does would sizing wax be a good lube?What is good lube?

Not sure what you mean by "sizing wax" but;
Many things can be used for lube, lard, Crisco, spit, olive oil, beeswax mixed with olive oil, bear fat, mink oil, etc. just avoid paraffin wax and petroleum products.

How long can you leave a rifle loaded with Pyrodex without risking corrosion?.. Thanks

If the gun is clean with no fouling in the barrel it could be left for an extended period of time. though I wouldn't recommend it with pyrodex because of the increased possibility of a misfire.

If the gun has been fired and has fouling in the bore you literally have hours. Muzzleloaders should be cleaned the same day they are shot. if you use pyrodex clean it well and check it often.

 

[Zeb]

Sizing wax is case lube used in reloading .I got to the farm early enough to play with the gun today.I bumped up my charge to 80gr,and feel it is probably more accurate with the Pennsylvania bullets than 70,but it may just be the fact that I'm getting used to using iron sights.All my shots are pretty much straight up,and down,and only the height varys a little,but not very much.I think it's me not showing exactly the same amount of front sight in the rear sight between shots.I am pretty sure I did a bone head ,and possibly dangerous thing today.I took a shot,and couldn't find the hole.I saw one that I thought may have looked a little oblong,and I though to my self that I pretty much shot thru the same hole.I poured powder in the barrel,started the bullet,and then could not find my rod.I looked in the truck,around the bench.I thought the last shot had kicked a little more,and I am 99.99% sure I have shot my ramrod to hard to tell where. I was lucky enough to have a thick aluminum cleaning rod with me so I was able to use that as a rod ,but unless I find my rod I am convinced I have shot it out the barrel.I had time to hunt afterwards, but only seen a couple does.I may get another hunt in,but I am having fun just playing with the gun.I hope to become a crack shot using irons between now,and next fall.I have not killed anything with iron sights for probably 25 years.

 

[Walkingeagle]

I only shot my ramrod once, about 21 years ago and shortly after getting my first ml. It did not survive.
Walk

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

First off, welcome to the forum. I am from Canada so I cannot comment as to whether or not you over paid, but it sounds to me like you did not. There are many here who will provide further comment as to your questions as well, but I will start things off.
1) If possible try and provide us some pictures so we can better assist you.
2) The wedge key (the thing holding your barrel on). No it should not be loose. Simply bend it slightly and reinsert with the belly of the bend downward until you are satisfied it is tight.
3) Lets talk cleaning. It does not sound as though you got a cleaning jag (slightly smaller than bore size brass attachment for the end of your ramrod). Once fired, black powder, or any artificial black powder (Pyrodex), is very corrosive and you will need to clean your rifles bore, and the area around the lock, once shooting is finished. Water is the easiest and cheapest way to accomplish this. Just soak a patch, place over the bore and push it down slowly with your cleaning jag on your ramrod, pull it straight back out. Repeat with follow up cleaning patches until they come out clean. Then proceed with drying patches until bore is dry. Once fully dry run an oiled patch down and follow that with further drying patches. You don’t require lots of lube in/on your gun.
Use wet rag to clean the external areas around the lock and dry after. If you have not yet cleaned the ml after shooting, I recommend doings so adap.
More to come....

Thats why i take a cleaning jag and turn it down so it admits the largest of cleaning patches...that can still be withdrawn with gunk and ect.

sussexmuzllodr

 

[Carbon 6]

Sizing wax is case lube used in reloading ..

I've always used either RCBS case lube in the small bottle or Hornady one-shot aerosol for lubing cases.
I would not use either of them for lubing patches.

 

[Dr5x]

I THINK ALL RENEGADEHUNTER SAYS IS PROBABLY NOT NECESSARY WHEN YOU LIVE ALONE, BUT

When leaving it loaded I like to seal the barrel and nipple off. Some simple black electrical tape over the muzzle, which can be left on and won't effect accuracy when shot, and then I put a foam earplug over the nipple and set the hammer down on it. Last year I left it loaded for over 3 months like this and it went off fine and hit POA when I emptied it (real black powder). I do live in a pretty low humidity area though.
It is also good to do something like this to signal that the gun is loaded. I've actually been using either electrician's red phase tape (basically same as black electrical tape) or some red adhesive TC stickers that I found at a local Sportsman's Warehouse made just for taping over the end of the barrel. The red tape over the bore and the yellow foam earplug signal to me that the gun is loaded, and my family also knows that it means it's loaded.

 

[Dr5x]

when there are other people living in the same area, they make very good sense.
If there are small mischievous children involved I don't think Would leave it loaded at all.
Small kids are always exploring and get into all sorts of troubles.

Dutch Schoultz

 

[TNGhost]

If your ramrod was a wooden one, not a great loss from a CVA, they usually don't have the greatest ramrods. Many have have shot theirs, though few will admit it if they don't have to.

When hunting I always replaced my wooden ones with a fiberglass one as the wooden ones tend to give way at the worst times, and can put a nasty hole in your hand/arm.

If you look for a wooden replacement, do so where you can look at them and get one with a good straight grain that all runs the full length of the dowel. If it angles across at all, that is where it can break, creating a sharp point. Also some swear by soaking in kerosene or diesel fuel for a length of time(in a piece of PVC pipe, etc.) will toughen the rod. Track of the Wolf, Dixie and others sell rods and hardwood dowels to make rods with, as well as the end pieces.

Sounds like you got yourself off to a great start, and yes Pyrodex looks like grey crumbly dirt(black powder doesn't look a whole lot different) and kept dry, you can leave a muzzleloader loaded indefinitely, with proper safety concerns addressed, as with any firearm. Pyrodex is fine to use if it is all you can get, but true black powder is better in my estimation. As far as which is more corrosive, they are the same for all practical purposes, and your gun needs cleaning soon with either, and should be checked periodically every few days after cleaning for a couple weeks, just to be sure you "got it all". Better safe than sorry.

Sounds like you done good with the cap/nipple as well. FWIW most fire a cap or two only before loading to clear out any oil or debris before first loading the gun, and to help determine if their are going to be any ignition problems. Pointing it at the ground is good, and the puff of air from the cap discharging moving the blades of grass will show you that it will have a clean straight shot to the powder.

As far as Imperial Sizing Die Wax being good for patch lube, I have no idea, I do know its good stuff for resizing cases, never though to use it as a patch lube though, as I have always either bought prelubed, precut patches or when i "roll my own" used Crisco or just plain saliva. Can't see why it wouldn't work though, give it a whirl, you may be on to something. As far as why to lube? It helps get the ball down the barrel, helps keep the powder residue soft, helps seal the bore and helps keep the patch intact on the way out, which contributes to accuracy.

Welcome aboard a great hobby and have fun.

 

[Zeb]

I think my rod was probably a delrin rod .I just thought it was strong black plastic, but a previous poster said it sounded like a delrin.I could tell it was strong,but I think I would want a wooden on to match the gun.It may be best to have both types..I was shooting from a sled type rest that has a little sling that the butt is against,so I don't feel much recoil,but when I shot that rod the barrel jumped way up in the air.I just thought I had a poor grip on the gun till I couldn't find the rod.I may even the to make one.I seen a couple different kinds of black powder on the shelf of the sporting goods store the other day.I will grab a jug next time I'm there.

 

[fishmusic]

The reason I asked about how long one could be kept loaded without damage is because I plan to be hunting with it the next few evenings,and was wondering if I could just store it loaded if I don't take a shot for a couple days.This new "Heritage season" starts tomorrow, and runs thru Sunday.I saw the "Bore Butter" in the store yesterday,but I just figured it was a bore cleaner.

Zeb,
You can store the gun with a load and probably have no ill effects. The lube you use might be the real clincher. If you use spit it probably won't stay wet. Bore Butter gets hard in cold weather. I haven't used mink oil yet but it comes highly recommended. Have fun with it!

 

[Dr5x]

HOW ODD.
ONLY THE TOP HALF OF MY POST SHOWED UP.

I THINK THAT WHAT RENEGADE HUNTER SUGGESTS IS EXCELLENT IF YOU LIVE WITH OTHER PEOPLE WHO MIGHT HAVE ACCESS TO YOUR IFLE. BUT WOULD BE LESS NEEDED IF YOU LIVE ALONE. SORRY RENEGADEHUNTER, IT LOOKED LIKE I DISAGREED WITH YOU WHEN I ACTUALLY THOUGHT YOUR POST MADE GREAT GOOD SENSE.

DUTCH SCHOULTZ

I THINK ALL RENEGADEHUNTER SAYS IS PROBABLY NOT NECESSARY WHEN YOU LIVE ALONE, BUT

 

[Kansas Jake]

I have wooden ramrods in most of my rifles, but also have the Delrin or other rods I use when hunting. I broke a wooden one once while deer hunting and trying to reload quickly. I was lucky and didn't get injured, but as others have said don't want to have a sharp broken ramrod run through my hand or arm.

 

[renegadehunter]

HOW ODD.
ONLY THE TOP HALF OF MY POST SHOWED UP.

I THINK THAT WHAT RENEGADE HUNTER SUGGESTS IS EXCELLENT IF YOU LIVE WITH OTHER PEOPLE WHO MIGHT HAVE ACCESS TO YOUR IFLE. BUT WOULD BE LESS NEEDED IF YOU LIVE ALONE. SORRY RENEGADEHUNTER, IT LOOKED LIKE I DISAGREED WITH YOU WHEN I ACTUALLY THOUGHT YOUR POST MADE GREAT GOOD SENSE.

DUTCH SCHOULTZ

I knew what you were saying, no issues.
I do it just to keep me from doing something stupid like double loading it, or if something were to happen to me like a car accident or something I'd like my family who don't use muzzleloaders and aren't very familiar with them to know how to tell it's loaded. During hunting season is the only time it might ever be left with a charge in it.

If you ever do disagree with something I've posted...well, I'll be listening. I've heard that you've shot a bit of black powder in your time.

 

[Rich]

Congrats, your a real Muzzleloader Man!!!! You shot your ramrod! Welcome to the club.

 

[Zeb]

Congrats, your a real Muzzleloader Man!!!! You shot your ramrod! Welcome to the club.

I went ahead,and bought one in town. It was only $7 bucks,and was cut to fit fiberglass.I don't like it as much as what came with the gun when I got it.The threaded end has a little brass end that is the same diameter as the rod,and it makes it hard to get a good grip on it to pull it out of the stock.It will suffice for now.My old one had a cleaning jag with a cup shaped end,and I intend to order such an end for my new one.

 

[Carbon 6]

I would have went here first looking for a ramrod.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/570/1

Problem with fiberglass aside from being fiberglass, is that the jag ends usually aren't pinned, held on only by glue that will eventually let go. (that's how I got a jag stuck in a barrel)
A wooden rod or even aluminum can be grooved or knurled on one end to make pulling with fingers easier. I prefer groove wood, as it will grip a string tied to it nicely for those times when I get a ramrod stuck.
A rod with a threaded end will allow you to choose whatever jag design you like (just make sure the threads are the same) Also available from Track.

Just my ramblings.

 

[Zeb]

I will be placing an order with Track of the Wolf in the near future.I just bought this rod to do for now.It is threaded on one end.It has a threaded brass insert,and accepts 10/32 threaded attachments.