I apologize uproot for the long post, however I very much hope this helps anyone who has wondered about making their own shelter, it can certainly be done!
For awhile I've been wanting to aquire a portable, easy to pitch shelter that could serve multiple rolls besides just being a shelter. Plus for those who know my workings, I'll always try to manufacture my own quality gear before buying... I take great pride in that.
After much research and thinking I finally came up with what I feel is the solution to my specific needs.
To start, there are many ways one can create their own shelter. Many materials and methods are available to conform to many needs. This particular one is what I've settled on after looking into many others, while not the easiest or potentially the best way, I took allot into consideration and am very happy with the results.
Canvas... IMO the only way to go, however one must be VERY PICKY on their selection of canvas. The common painters tarp seems to be the most popular and readily available. HOWEVER... again one must be very particular on their selection. IMO, nothing under 10oz was acceptable to me. After looking at many box stores I was unhappy with their offerings. So, I went to a Sherwin Williams and hit the jackpot. I inspected the weave, sewing and overall quality of fabric before settling on the purchase. I selected a 9x12, 12oz drop cloth with tight weave, can't stress how important the tight weave is! Naturally canvas or cotton in general shrinks, therefore by washing your tarp in a hot cycle and drying on the highest setting you are shrinking the fibers and closing them up. Your tarp will repell water, however whenever it's touched leaks will begin. I also reinforced all corners and the seam by machine sewing with a heavy linen thread. So here is were we waterproof!
My recipe is one that's proven and works but requires a bit of patience, I must stress that, patience! Yet the results are worth it! The mixture only requires two things... Boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I purchased exactly 1 gallon of each, you could need more or less depending upon your application techniques or canvas size. Once your materials are gathered and canvas is washed/ dried at least once (twice is better) your ready to waterproof!
Mix your linseed oil with the mineral spirits 50/50 into a large bucket or in my case, a 66qt container for ease of use. Stir very well as you want a good even mix. The mineral spirits act as a drying agent so it's important to mix very well.
From there once mixed, I soaked the canvas in the mixture making sure to absolutely coat every area of the canvas. I allowed the canvas to sit covered in the container for approximately half an hour to soak up as much of the mixture as possible.
After your canvas is thoroughly coated it's off to hang! Here is were the patience comes in, let your piece hang for at least a week or more. Do not touch for the first 48 hours, then flip your piece to promote even drying. Your end result should be a completely water resistant shelter that has a multitude of options for use.
To test the effectiveness of the waterproofing I sat my canvas out in the downpour we've had for the last two days... absolutely bone dry!!! Water literally beads and runs off. While not light (which I wasn't going for in this case) it's not horrible at all, it certainly stiffened up but it's easily worked, rolled or folded.
Most importantly keep in mind it's not fire resistant... I know some will argue that's why you go with modern canvas and what not. That's fine and I respect that, but first off exercise common sense... it's not rocket science. Secondly keep your drying piece in a well ventilated area, again common sense. Certainly don't hang it in the garage attached to your house because for the first week it's going to smell of mineral spirits, as of now the smell has completely dispersed, all that's left is a noticeable but subtle linseed smell, which I already love anyways.
After drying, your left with a straw/light tan coloration on the canvas. Any rit dye can be used before washing and waterproofing, I prefer natural dyes which I'll cover further down.
My cotton ropes and ties, my tiedowns are simply .600 rounballs. All cordage is also waterproofed.
Simple rope blocks for versatility in setting up different shelter options. Also waterproofed.
Coloring... I've dug in and found allot referring to period oilskin being a type of red, here is my example of that. What I've done is use my same 50/50 mixture of waterproofing but also with the addition of two cups iron oxide powder. Applied the same way. I sat this test piece outside with a slip of paper underneath, taped with aircraft speed tape on all corners. No suprise, paper was bone dry. Again you can dye however you wish, personally I want a more period type finish/ coloration so this is what I've settled on.
I also have made and waterproofed a small canvas carry bag for all my ropes, blocks and stakes. Very happy with this project, very much worth the efforts and one that certainly should prove very reliable for years to come!
For awhile I've been wanting to aquire a portable, easy to pitch shelter that could serve multiple rolls besides just being a shelter. Plus for those who know my workings, I'll always try to manufacture my own quality gear before buying... I take great pride in that.
After much research and thinking I finally came up with what I feel is the solution to my specific needs.
To start, there are many ways one can create their own shelter. Many materials and methods are available to conform to many needs. This particular one is what I've settled on after looking into many others, while not the easiest or potentially the best way, I took allot into consideration and am very happy with the results.
Canvas... IMO the only way to go, however one must be VERY PICKY on their selection of canvas. The common painters tarp seems to be the most popular and readily available. HOWEVER... again one must be very particular on their selection. IMO, nothing under 10oz was acceptable to me. After looking at many box stores I was unhappy with their offerings. So, I went to a Sherwin Williams and hit the jackpot. I inspected the weave, sewing and overall quality of fabric before settling on the purchase. I selected a 9x12, 12oz drop cloth with tight weave, can't stress how important the tight weave is! Naturally canvas or cotton in general shrinks, therefore by washing your tarp in a hot cycle and drying on the highest setting you are shrinking the fibers and closing them up. Your tarp will repell water, however whenever it's touched leaks will begin. I also reinforced all corners and the seam by machine sewing with a heavy linen thread. So here is were we waterproof!
My recipe is one that's proven and works but requires a bit of patience, I must stress that, patience! Yet the results are worth it! The mixture only requires two things... Boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. I purchased exactly 1 gallon of each, you could need more or less depending upon your application techniques or canvas size. Once your materials are gathered and canvas is washed/ dried at least once (twice is better) your ready to waterproof!
Mix your linseed oil with the mineral spirits 50/50 into a large bucket or in my case, a 66qt container for ease of use. Stir very well as you want a good even mix. The mineral spirits act as a drying agent so it's important to mix very well.
From there once mixed, I soaked the canvas in the mixture making sure to absolutely coat every area of the canvas. I allowed the canvas to sit covered in the container for approximately half an hour to soak up as much of the mixture as possible.
After your canvas is thoroughly coated it's off to hang! Here is were the patience comes in, let your piece hang for at least a week or more. Do not touch for the first 48 hours, then flip your piece to promote even drying. Your end result should be a completely water resistant shelter that has a multitude of options for use.
To test the effectiveness of the waterproofing I sat my canvas out in the downpour we've had for the last two days... absolutely bone dry!!! Water literally beads and runs off. While not light (which I wasn't going for in this case) it's not horrible at all, it certainly stiffened up but it's easily worked, rolled or folded.
Most importantly keep in mind it's not fire resistant... I know some will argue that's why you go with modern canvas and what not. That's fine and I respect that, but first off exercise common sense... it's not rocket science. Secondly keep your drying piece in a well ventilated area, again common sense. Certainly don't hang it in the garage attached to your house because for the first week it's going to smell of mineral spirits, as of now the smell has completely dispersed, all that's left is a noticeable but subtle linseed smell, which I already love anyways.
After drying, your left with a straw/light tan coloration on the canvas. Any rit dye can be used before washing and waterproofing, I prefer natural dyes which I'll cover further down.
My cotton ropes and ties, my tiedowns are simply .600 rounballs. All cordage is also waterproofed.
Simple rope blocks for versatility in setting up different shelter options. Also waterproofed.
Coloring... I've dug in and found allot referring to period oilskin being a type of red, here is my example of that. What I've done is use my same 50/50 mixture of waterproofing but also with the addition of two cups iron oxide powder. Applied the same way. I sat this test piece outside with a slip of paper underneath, taped with aircraft speed tape on all corners. No suprise, paper was bone dry. Again you can dye however you wish, personally I want a more period type finish/ coloration so this is what I've settled on.
I also have made and waterproofed a small canvas carry bag for all my ropes, blocks and stakes. Very happy with this project, very much worth the efforts and one that certainly should prove very reliable for years to come!
