New lube.

[Black Hand]

Carbon 6; ingredients are Palm Oil, Coconut oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, vitamin E and Citric Acid.
No, I won’t be heating the bbl to 350 deg. Question was potential patch lube.
Black Hand; I do not season my pans with olive oil, or even higher smoke point oils such as corn oil, lards, etc for reasons you need not worry on, so lets move past the seasoning of pans please. Lets talk of potential patch lubes.
Walk

You are already using olive oil, so why do you want to change? Is there some compelling reason to change what works, is easily obtained, relatively inexpensive and is also historically-correct?

Though I would suggest using a lesser grade of Olive oil and saving the extra-virgin for your salad....

 

[Walkingeagle]

Not looking to change at all sir, unless it proves to perform better that is. I would suspect the vast majority of us here are always on a personal quest to test and trial different things, make our own products, learn and grow. Life would be very dull and mundane if we were to just accept “it has always been done this way”, would you not say? In another post you have seen my feelings towards Goex black powder, and I still am seeking a perfect combo to allow me to use that “holy black”! Thus the question. I wont have the opportunity to test it for a few months yet however.
Walk

 

[Carbon 6]

Or as a surface prep for seasoning. Citric acid is a metal cleaner, rust remover, iron remover. OK for a frying pan, but doesn't sound good for my barrel.

 

[Carbon 6]

Have you tried beeswax and olive oil ?
That's what I use when I don't use spit.

 

[Walkingeagle]

Not yet but am hoping to blend some up this week. A coworker raises bees and brought me a few pounds of wax.
Walk

 

[Carbon 6]

An ounce will make a lot of patch lube

 

[Carbon 6]

Also, you might try stumpy's moose snot.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I don't favor use of alcohol for patch lube. It evaporates so rapidly I question whether any remains after a few hours/days/weeks when applied to the cloth. BTW, I cannot find reference to the characteristics of castor oil that make is useful for our purposes. Can somebody help?

You dissolve a small amount of castor oil in denatured alcohol, then leave the patches out to evaporate out the alcohol. You're not supposed to have any residual alcohol in the patch fibers. A fine amount of castor oil is absorbed into the patch fibers, yielding essentially a dry patch. There is no excess oil in the patch to react with combustion and residual fouling is at a minimum. I've found it to be very clean in PRB applications, and also for cap &* ball revolver paper wads, musket TOW wads and also vegetable fiber wads for muzzleloading shotgun loads. I find it works for me better than any of my previous patch or wad lubes & there is no reason for me to ever quit using my castor oil blend.
Castor oil has many industrial uses, and has been used as a 2 stroke and other engine hi temp applications due to its' temperature stability and outstanding lubricationg properties.
Here's more than what you want to know about castor oil.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5015816/

 

[brayhaven]

View attachment 3439 View attachment 3439 View attachment 3439

ON THE SUBJECT OF LUBES, MY CALIZONA OR ARIFORNIA GUNSMITHING WIZARD SENT ME THE FOLLOWING:
EVERYBODY REDISCOVERING NEW PATCH LUBES THAT PRESERVE WITHOUT CLEANING.

THEY DID NOT TAKE COLLEGE CHEMISTRY APPARENTLY.

THE RESIDUAL CHLORATES AND SULPHATES ARE CATALYTIC IN NATURE. EVEN COATED WITH

OIL OR WAX, THEY NEVER GIVE UP. JUST KEEPING THE MOISTURE FROM THEM DOES NOT STOP THEIR

ACTION.

SINCE THE CHLORATES AND SULPHATES ARE POLAR IN NATURE, ONLY A POLAR SOLVENT WILL REMOVE THEM.

BEST POLAR SOLVENT IS WATER, EVEN A SMALL AMOUNT, FOLLOWED BY A WATER DISPLACER, SUCH AS WD-40

OR BOELUBE LIGHT. EVEN ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL HAS SOME WATER IN IT, BUT THE EVAPORATION CARRIES THE

WATER AWAY. STILL NEED A WATER DISPLACER AFTER ALCOHOL.

FURTHER, HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR FOULING AT A CONSTANT THICKNESS WITH BEAR GREASE AND

ANCHOVY OIL? OR WHATEVER SOUNdS TOO SLICK TO HOLD A PATCH.


NOBODY MENTIONS ACCURACY WITH THEIR FAVORITE CONCOCTION.
All the above is beyond me but what he says about the insidious action of the After shot residue matches my experience.
You have got to get rid of that crud or it will happily munch away on your barrels.
Water will flush it away, but then the water becomes the problem and a water displacement product will take care of that..
If there are others besides WD 40
I don't know what they are.

Dutch Schoultz






EVERYBODY REDISCOVERING NEW PATCH LUBES THAT PRESERVE WITHOUT CLEANING.

THEY DID NOT TAKE COLLEGE CHEMISTRY APPARENTLY.

THE RESIDUAL CHLORATES AND SULPHATES ARE CATALYTIC IN NATURE. EVEN COATED WITH

OIL OR WAX, THEY NEVER GIVE UP. JUST KEEPING THE MOISTURE FROM THEM DOES NOT STOP THEIR

ACTION.

SINCE THE CHLORATES AND SULPHATES ARE POLAR IN NATURE, ONLY A POLAR SOLVENT WILL REMOVE THEM.

BEST POLAR SOLVENT IS WATER, EVEN A SMALL AMOUNT, FOLLOWED BY A WATER DISPLACER, SUCH AS WD-40

OR BOELUBE LIGHT. EVEN ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL HAS SOME WATER IN IT, BUT THE EVAPORATION CARRIES THE

WATER AWAY. STILL NEED A WATER DISPLACER AFTER ALCOHOL.

FURTHER, HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR FOULING AT A CONSTANT THICKNESS WITH BEAR SCROTUM GREASE AND

ANCHOVY OIL? OR WHATEVER. THE BARREL SOUND TOO SLICK TO HOLD A PATCH.


NOBODY MENTIONS ACCURACY WITH THEIR FAVORITE CONCOCTION. HMMMMMM.

.

It seems we’re mixing up shooting lubes and cleaning/preserving procedures.
Yes, I took chemistry in high shool...and college. my day job for 15 yrs was a corrosion chemist. Where I had access to a state of the art lab and a PhD (who knew his **** wrt corrosion) I took advantage of that to test different gun corrosion inhibiting products for effectiveness. I used mild steel corrosion coupons, weighed to 1/100,000th gram and subjected to controlled salt spray corrosion environment. The corrosion rates after weighing the coupons were expressed in mpy (mils per year).
But my shooting lube testing was ALL about accuracy and consistency. Thousands of rounds using weighed charges and dozens of different lubes and techniques. I was also a gunsmith for 45 years. Sometimes part time, sometimes full time, including the past 20 yrs.

In analyzing why the alcohol/castor lube wth no swabbing worked so well, I concluded that the very tight patch ball combo, removed the previous fouling and placed it above the charge, which sent it out the barrel with the shot. The process was/is partly the alcohol mixture and partly the mechanical scraping of the lands and grooves by the tight combination, making every shot almost exactly the same after the first shot from a clean barrel.

After I’m done shooting, I put a few drops of water with liquid detergent down the bore to soften the fouling around the breech plug when I clean the gun within a few hours. I pump water through with a tight patch and jag, completely dry the bore and preserve it with a heavier synthetic gun oil like break free CO. Never a hint of rust when running a clean patch before starting the next shoot, 2-3 weeks later. Muleskinner

50 yd offhand 36 cal triple O buckshot, swaged, 25 gr swiss 3f.

 

[Dr5x]

HERE WEgo again.
What is SPG?
SPANISH POTATO GLUE?
Springfield Percussion Gelatin.
The list of possibilities are endless.ItWMHand causes ER.
You can imagin MC&A.
Is writing in code similar to speaking In Tongues? Or is it a way to impress the not quite so cool as me?

Dutch TC as you might I

Patches treated with SPG works well also. I shoot an all day match without needing to wipe. Keeps fouling soft. Following the directions:

ML Patches: For best results:
1. GENTLY melt (160F max.) lube
2. and dip patches w/tweezers or pliers.
3. Place on sheet of wax paper to dry.

https://www.shopspg.net/SPG-Large-Bullet-Lube-Tin-LG-patch-tin.htm

 

[Dr5x]

≠

 

[SgtMaj65]

You dissolve a small amount of castor oil in denatured alcohol, then leave the patches out to evaporate out the alcohol. You're not supposed to have any residual alcohol in the patch fibers. A fine amount of castor oil is absorbed into the patch fibers, yielding essentially a dry patch. There is no excess oil in the patch to react with combustion and residual fouling is at a minimum. I've found it to be very clean in PRB applications, and also for cap &* ball revolver paper wads, musket TOW wads and also vegetable fiber wads for muzzleloading shotgun loads. I find it works for me better than any of my previous patch or wad lubes & there is no reason for me to ever quit using my castor oil blend.
Castor oil has many industrial uses, and has been used as a 2 stroke and other engine hi temp applications due to its' temperature stability and outstanding lubricationg properties.
Here's more than what you want to know about castor oil.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5015816/

I’ve been using my own concoction of 1 part castor oil, 1 part Murphy’s oil soap and 6 parts isopropyl alcohol as a range patch swab between shots to keep barrel consistent shot to shot with excellent results. I got onto castor oil decades ago from a CW reenactor friend and I like it.

 

[oldwolf]

Does the "Smoke Point" come into play, at all, with choosing an oil to lubricate with?
Admittedly, there is a lot of chemistry to consider other than this one data point.
Castor Oil has a high Smoke Point, but not he highest.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point

 

[Dr5x]

You refer to Futch's Dry Patch Lube system but use an oil that is very slippery.
Dutch's System encourages minimizing slickness as much as possible and maintaining that slight resistance.

Dutch

Your missing the point. He’s making a variation to Dutch’s dry lube method. The alcohol takes the place of the water in a water Ballistol mix. The castor oil (the slipperiest oil known) is taking the place of the Ballistol. The alcohol is supposed to evaporate off, leaving the oil on the patch. The problem may be that the patch is now too slippery, accuracy may suffer. Testing in your rifle will let you know.

 

[oldwolf]

I'm learning a few things about Beeswax.

Yellow BW is unfiltered and White BW is filtered.
Which do we prefer as muzzle loading aficionados?
I expect is does not matter...

 

[Carbon 6]

Yellow BW is unfiltered and White BW is filtered.
..

Both yellow and white are filtered. White is just filtered to a higher degree using pressure or centrifuge. Bleaching may also be done to achieve "whiteness". Of course you can buy raw beeswax from a bee keeper.

I prefer yellow beeswax or slightly brown. I want my beeswax filtered to remove large particles and such but I want to retain color and smell.

 

[dixie5032]

HERE WEgo again.
What is SPG?
SPANISH POTATO GLUE?
Springfield Percussion Gelatin.
The list of possibilities are endless.ItWMHand causes ER.
You can imagin MC&A.
Is writing in code similar to speaking In Tongues? Or is it a way to impress the not quite so cool as me?

Dutch TC as you might I

SPG is a BP lube: http://www.blackpowderspg.com/spglube.html

BP stands for Black Powder...

 

[Britsmoothy]

HERE WEgo again.
What is SPG?
SPANISH POTATO GLUE?
Springfield Percussion Gelatin.
The list of possibilities are endless.ItWMHand causes ER.
You can imagin MC&A.
Is writing in code similar to speaking In Tongues? Or is it a way to impress the not quite so cool as me?

Dutch TC as you might I

What you smoking dude?

 

[Carbon 6]

What you smoking dude?

Still it does make one wonder what SPG does stand for?
Sal's projectile goop?

 

[dixie5032]

Still it does make one wonder what SPG does stand for?
Sal's projectile goop?

SPG stands for Steven P. Garbe, the inventor of SPG lube. He lives in Cody WY. Don't ask me what the P stands for... (-: