New lube.

Discussion in 'Shooting Accessories' started by Britsmoothy, Dec 28, 2018.

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  1. Jan 8, 2019 #41

    4065shooter

    4065shooter

    4065shooter

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    Patches treated with SPG works well also. I shoot an all day match without needing to wipe. Keeps fouling soft. Following the directions:

    ML Patches: For best results:
    1. GENTLY melt (160F max.) lube
    2. and dip patches w/tweezers or pliers.
    3. Place on sheet of wax paper to dry.

    https://www.shopspg.net/SPG-Large-Bullet-Lube-Tin-LG-patch-tin.htm
     
  2. Jan 9, 2019 #42

    Flint62Smoothie

    Flint62Smoothie

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    SPG is very good, but one dayum expen$ive lube! Complete wa$te of money for roundball muzzleloading BP loads and our distances shot IMHO ...

    And yes, I also shoot original BP cartridge Schuetzen rifles to 600-yards, using SPG lube for those bullets.
     
  3. Jan 9, 2019 #43

    Flint62Smoothie

    Flint62Smoothie

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    FYI, for those interested in numbers, using the prices from online that I had assessed last Fall ... the TOW mink oil cost $0.78 per ounce, whilst the large tub of SPG cost $4.34 per ounce, and where the small tub of SPG costing $4.69 per ounce.

    OUCH, that means SPG lube is 5.6 to 6-times the co$t of TOW's mink oil lube, and your own homemade beeswax/olive oil MZL lube is even cheaper!
     
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  4. Jan 9, 2019 #44

    Britsmoothy

    Britsmoothy

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    I got the beeswax off a friendly bee keeper and pinched the olive oil from my Mrs while she was not looking ;)

    B.
     
  5. Jan 9, 2019 #45

    tenngun

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    I don’t think there is one magic lube, or load or style of shooting. You find something you like play with other folks blends and have a barrel of fun doing it. I like mink oil but I can’t say it works better then lard. How ever I like mink oil.
    We have to look at the bottom line. We are shooting the worse possible projectile on top of the worse possible propellent ignited by the worse possible system at a close range target sighted on by the worse possible sighting system. Right?
     
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  6. Jan 10, 2019 #46

    Harry A

    Harry A

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    Well said!
     
  7. Jan 10, 2019 #47

    kemart17

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    very interesting information, might have to give this a try.
     
  8. Jan 10, 2019 #48

    Stumpkiller

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    But we're doing it with style. ;-)
     
  9. Jan 10, 2019 #49

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

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    It's more fun too.
     
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  10. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:14 AM #50

    cooncrazy

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    I just tried the beeswax/peanut oil 50/50 mix. came out too hard.heated it up in a round cake pan and added .54 cal t/c maxi's did not stick to the lead bullets. what can I add/do to fix this?
     
  11. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:32 AM #51

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

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    Add more oil, a little beeswax goes a long way. I mix mine the consistency of peanut butter for maxi's I like it a little harder (like ice cream) for patches.
    Re-melt the mixture and try again. I would split the batch and take good notes.
     
  12. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:37 AM #52

    Stumpkiller

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  13. Jan 11, 2019 at 3:47 AM #53

    Flint62Smoothie

    Flint62Smoothie

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    As previously stated, you need low & slow heat to melt the lube. I put a tin can in a pot of boiling water, akin to cooking pasta.
     
  14. Jan 11, 2019 at 7:47 PM #54

    Stumpkiller

    Stumpkiller

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    Or a double-broiler to keep it away from direct heat. I use a small can inside a larger can that has a few inches of water.
     
  15. Jan 11, 2019 at 8:02 PM #55

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

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    Boiler not Broiler. Darn typos. :eek:

    A double boiler is a great idea. I do mine outside where risk of spontaneous ignition and fire don't present a problem.
     
  16. Jan 12, 2019 at 2:27 AM #56

    cooncrazy

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    got some murphy soap tonight.i use a double boiler to do the melting, deep fryer with a 9 inch cake pan in it. tomorrow is our last day of flintlock, will play with it mabe sunday.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2019 at 5:09 AM #57

    Carbon 6

    Carbon 6

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    My advice,
    Mix a small batch first. and know that murphy's will cause it to foam.
     
  18. Jan 14, 2019 at 2:59 AM #58

    AZbpBurner

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    For several decades I'd used a patch lube recipe of beeswax + tallow. It was passed on to me from an old guy at my range who had a comprehensive collection of original muzzleloaders passed on from previous family generations. It was authentic & worked just fine provided it was worked well into the patch material & not applied excessively.

    A few years ago I read of a "dry lube' recipe from one of our esteemed members that used ballistol dissolved in water, then allowed to dry to evaporate out the water. It worked to practically eliminate fouling.

    Based on this I dissolved some old caster oil I had leftover from model airplane engine fuel. Mix castor oil with denatured oil. Dip patches & allow to dry.

    My castor oil "dry" patches outperform all other lubes I've tried throughout several decades. Any of the "new" innovations in patch lube don't come close to measuring up & are a waste of my time.
     
  19. Jan 14, 2019 at 3:44 AM #59

    Stumpkiller

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    Not necessarily a waste of time - if your rifle prefers one over another. But I also find a castor oil lube, liquid or wax, to work well for me.
     
  20. Jan 14, 2019 at 7:57 AM #60

    Britsmoothy

    Britsmoothy

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    Castor oil is known for special properties.
    Especially lubricating at high temps.
    It is also vegetable oil and hence perfect for black powder fouling!
    It reingned as the top 2stroke oil for decades and for good reason! It took a all sorts of additives to get mineral oils to work in the hostile 2stroke engines environment!
     

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