new flint lock shooter question

[wb78963]

I am a percussion gun shooter both rifle and hand gun so real Gun Powder is no stranger to me. I have supplies of FFg FFFg and a can of original DuPont FFFFg. Gun Powder. Mostly GOEX but a can or two of Olde Eynsford and some KIK.


However due to bad influences like Mark the Black Powder Maniac and Mike Beliveau AKA Duelist1954 I bought a .50 caliber Pedersoli flint lock rifle.

I am sure it will not be the only one I will wind up with.

I am set up with components and accessories that lap over from the cap guns but has anyone have any reviews or used the product Mr. Flintlock, and where is the best source of good flints?

That cleaning lubricating product sounds almost too good to be true and I do not want to start off making a mess. Normally I clean with plain warm tap water and Moose Milk.

Comments requested

Thanks

WB

 

[MSW]

clean up with warm water is good, as is moose milk … I run a patch through the bore the next day, but then again, I have been accused of being congenitally paranoid about rust …

I get my flints from Track of the Wolf … if you want to pay a bit more for the fancy French Amber flints, that's your business - I don't think that they get any more shots, but the do look kinda cool, and they're your hard earned, overtaxed, God entrusted dollars, so spend them as you see fit.

if you don't already have a copy, you should get a copy of Dutch Schoultz' method... here's a link:

http://blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

best of luck, and welcome to the highly addictive world of rock banging

 

[Grenadier1758]

When you order flints from any source, be sure to add the special instruction to select flints with top and bottom flat. Otherwise you will get some with humps on one surface and these are difficult to mount in the jaws of the hammer.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Track of the wolf for me too

 

[azmntman]

Have never used Mr Flintlock. I swear by Hoppes #9 Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube, others swear by Mr Flintlock. I DO NOT USE HOPPES FOR CLEAN UP. Dont work a bit better than water. And in the field if ya wanna swab so ya can postpone clean up (no-no) if ya use it you have just introduced WATER (they put water in Hoppes) into yer filthy barrel. Water is necessary for corrosion to kick off. In my low humidity area I can wait overnight no proplem. Them what still stays in the high humid parts need to be diligent. I tell em if ya cant clean TODAY, dont shoot at all. Hoppes is excellent all day/no swabbing patch lube though.

Both likely good for range, for hunting you wanna use a dry patch (in the Dutch system and WORKS) or milk oil, they wont dry out or start to rust.

Used to use top secret spit patch but I suddenly quit chewing so that's done, I wont ask for help there, that'd be gross, "hey mister, that Grizzly yer chawin?..cool would ya mind wettin down a few patches?"

 

[Roughneck]

Mr Flintlock is good stuff I used it for awhile before I ran out. I use a Murphy's mixture now and ballistol.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

The only difference between the rifles is that you don't use a cap. As for barrel cleaning, you should not change your previous routine. Per se...*

IF you're new to patched round ball, having used conicals in the past, then you are going to need to find a good patching material to go along with your round ball. I recommend a .490 soft lead ball as a starting point for your .50 . Often, these are coupled with .015 patches. You can find these either pre-lubed or unlubed. No harm in trying both.

After a time you will may want to try a DIY lube, or just use saliva on unlubed cloth when at the range.

(Sorry if you already know all this.)

NOW for the Pedersoli barrel...IF you've not had a Pedersoli rifle in the past...the barrel will normally have what is known as a "patent breech". This is a smaller chamber that is part of the breech plug, that tries to get the powder closer to the touch hole. Using a standard ramrod and jag, you cannot get down into this to clean it out, and over time they often get clogged. So you will probably need a modern .22 Pistol brush on the end of the cleaning rod to get into that chamber and de-crud it. Pipe cleaners inserted through the touch hole are also often helpful.

LD

 

[Darkhorse]

I'm using Mr. Flintlock's Lube for most of my shooting now. I used LeHigh Valley lube for years until I couldn't find it anymore. Mr. Flintlock's is very close to the LeHigh Valley product. I don't consider either to be a hunting lube because it will dry out then cause a rust ring in the barrel. But for general shooting the stuff works great. It allows many shots without a need to clean, and it maintains accuracy through out. My best groups have been shot with the product.

 

[EC121]

FYI! Be careful if you use the bristle brush. The brush part is just crimped in the threaded part. If it gets jammed in the hole you can pull it off the threaded part with too much of a yank. Most of the brushes are made to be pushed completely through the bore before the return stroke. Not pulled in and out like we do. The better ones have the wire looped through the base, but they are mostly used for the larger bore size brushes and swabs.

 

[Zonie]

FYI! Be careful if you use the bristle brush. The brush part is just crimped in the threaded part. If it gets jammed in the hole you can pull it off the threaded part with too much of a yank. Most of the brushes are made to be pushed completely through the bore before the return stroke. Not pulled in and out like we do. The better ones have the wire looped through the base, but they are mostly used for the larger bore size brushes and swabs.

Carrying on with this, because bristle brushes bristles bend backwards toward the muzzle as the brush is shoved down the barrel, trying to just "pull it out" results in the bristles locking into the bore, kinda like the old fashioned Chinese Finger Traps we played with as kids, do.

If a brush is going to be used, when it gets to the bottom of the bore, turn the cleaning rod clockwise until you can feel the brush slip. Then keep on turning it this way and apply some upward pressure on the cleaning rod.
That will allow the bristles to bend towards the breech so the brush can be removed.

As EC121 mentioned, there are some good brushes that have the bristle wires that hold the bristles looped thru a hole in the threaded part and there are a lot of bad brushes that use some form of a crimp on the threaded part to hold the bristle wire.

These crimped style brushes have a bad habit of pulling off of the threaded part, leaving the bristles stuck at the bottom of the bore.

 

[olskool]

for flint I only buy from "stonewall creek outfitters" they sell the best I have ever bought,,,,,,,,,,,,,,