Narragansett Fouler

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chiller

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New to the forum. Purchased a Lancaster American Fouler with a left side lock (since I am left handed) in 1997 and hardly used it. I became a F&I reinactor and used my fouler for the first month until I acquired a "Brown Bess." Sold the B.B. when I stopped reenacting five years ago and now want to get back to target/hunting with my Fouler. My question is, where can I get lead balls since I have only seen balls for sale up to .58 cal. in stead of 62 cal. All my old local sources for black powder supplies have gone out of business. I do have a TC in percussion but love flintlock's. Also, what black powder load would be a good should I start using lead ball when I find lead balls?
 

chiller

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Looks to have rust in places from what I can see in the photos. Never thought of making my own balls and do not know what equipment is necessary to do so. However, I am a Scuba Dive Master and have lots of lead weights lying around (easily 100 lbs.) Now that I am recently retired from work, I need to take a look into the cost effectiveness of making or buying lead balls.
 
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You can buy any size mold you need in .001" increments from Tanner molds in England. You will need handles for the blocks, and they don't have a cutter. Paypal takes care of the currency conversion. www.ballmoulds.com. I got mine( a .590 and a .595) in about 2wks.
 

chiller

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You can buy any size mold you need in .001" increments from Tanner molds in England. You will need handles for the blocks, and they don't have a cutter. Paypal takes care of the currency conversion. www.ballmoulds.com. I got mine( a .590 and a .595) in about 2wks.
Thanks for the info. Will look into the Tanner molds.
 
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A word of advice is to try different "store bought" ball sizes in your gun before you order a mold. They all are picky on the size ball they shoot the best. Good luck.

Dave
 
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It looks like Lee molds is out of production at this time everything is on back order.



There is only one .600 bag mold on eBay and they are real proud of it price wise.
Last year I bought a Lee double mold for .600 dia
TOW has / had them but shipping is not cheap due to weight
 

FishDFly

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Other sources for needed supplys:

Dixie Gun Works
The Log Cabin Shop
October Country
 

chiller

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You can buy any size mold you need in .001" increments from Tanner molds in England. You will need handles for the blocks, and they don't have a cutter. Paypal takes care of the currency conversion. www.ballmoulds.com. I got mine( a .590 and a .595) in about 2wks.
I like the molds available and the "starter kits" are nice as a beginner.
 
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Track of the Wolf sells the handles a little cheaper. All I bought was the blocks because I had the pouring gear(Lee bottom pour) and cutters.
 
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New to the forum. Purchased a Lancaster American Fouler with a left side lock (since I am left handed) in 1997 and hardly used it. I became a F&I reinactor and used my fouler for the first month until I acquired a "Brown Bess." Sold the B.B. when I stopped reenacting five years ago and now want to get back to target/hunting with my Fouler. My question is, where can I get lead balls since I have only seen balls for sale up to .58 cal. in stead of 62 cal. All my old local sources for black powder supplies have gone out of business. I do have a TC in percussion but love flintlock's. Also, what black powder load would be a good should I start using lead ball when I find lead balls?
October Country
 
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New to the forum. Purchased a Lancaster American Fouler with a left side lock (since I am left handed) in 1997 and hardly used it. I became a F&I reinactor and used my fouler for the first month until I acquired a "Brown Bess." Sold the B.B. when I stopped reenacting five years ago and now want to get back to target/hunting with my Fouler. My question is, where can I get lead balls since I have only seen balls for sale up to .58 cal. in stead of 62 cal. All my old local sources for black powder supplies have gone out of business. I do have a TC in percussion but love flintlock's. Also, what black powder load would be a good should I start using lead ball when I find lead balls?
New to the forum. Purchased a Lancaster American Fouler with a left side lock (since I am left handed) in 1997 and hardly used it. I became a F&I reinactor and used my fouler for the first month until I acquired a "Brown Bess." Sold the B.B. when I stopped reenacting five years ago and now want to get back to target/hunting with my Fouler. My question is, where can I get lead balls since I have only seen balls for sale up to .58 cal. in stead of 62 cal. All my old local sources for black powder supplies have gone out of business. I do have a TC in percussion but love flintlock's. Also, what black powder load would be a good should I start using lead ball when I find lead balls?
I have a Narragansett Tulle (.62) and suggest you experiment with both 600 and 610 rb with different thickness of patches and well as trying with no patches and using wads and overshot cards. For hunting I would suggest trying loads of 2f from 75 gr to 90 to see what your gun likes.
 

chiller

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I have a Narragansett Tulle (.62) and suggest you experiment with both 600 and 610 rb with different thickness of patches and well as trying with no patches and using wads and overshot cards. For hunting I would suggest trying loads of 2f from 75 gr to 90 to see what your gun likes.
Thanks
I have a Narragansett Tulle (.62) and suggest you experiment with both 600 and 610 rb with different thickness of patches and well as trying with no patches and using wads and overshot cards. For hunting I would suggest trying loads of 2f from 75 gr to 90 to see what your gun likes.
Thanks, I ordered .600 round balls from Track of the wolf (are on their way) and will play with different patch thickness's to start with. Was not sure what powder starting loads, until you mention 75 gr's. Back when I was re-enacting with my Brown Bess, my battalion decided to get some lead balls in size .735 (still have them) and did some target shooting at 25 yards. We did not use patches, just 90 grains of powder, then dropped in the ball and ram-down the paper powder cartridge on top of the ball. Surprising how accurate the Brown Bess is with this configuration at 25 yards, hit close to dead center on the second shot since there is no sight, just the lug at the end of the barrel to attach the bayonet. Always wondered if a patch would have been any better. Would have only needed a .010 or .015 patch. For those who don't know about a Brown Bess, or never shot one, its very close to a 12 gauge shotgun but, does not kick like one. Thanks for the head's up on powder loads Atticus 69.
 

toot

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here in the NORH EAST, NARRAGANSETT WAS THE RHODE ISLAND STATE BEER for over 100 years. any one remember it? it has recently been brought back.
 
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