• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

My Homemade Wads

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jul 26, 2014
Messages
4,603
Reaction score
4,708
Location
Southern Illinois
Hey all how are you doing? Today I punched a fresh batch of wads for my revolvers:

8FC2DFF4-D6D2-4A8C-85ED-45793044B887.jpeg


3B915726-12A9-447A-AC75-F566C6953A95.jpeg


My recipe is 2:1 beeswax and lamb’s tallow using Durofelt 1/4” pure wool felt. Punched out with a 7/16 punch for .44s and 3/8” for .36s. I don’t do this to save money, but because these wads work so much better than the factory ones. The fouling stays soft through multiple cylinders. I can clean my bore with 3 patches at day’s end. One damp with water, one to dry, one with Ballistol to preserve the bore.

Love these wads and they’re satisfying to make. Just thought I’d share. If you’re on the fence about making your own revolver wads, go ahead and give it a try. They’re worth it for sure.

-Smokey
 
Last edited:
Not sure exactly how you are backing up the material when you punch your wads, but I have found that with piece of lumber, be it 2 by, 4 by of 6 by, the end grain of a piece of wood holds up well. I place the wood in a sturdy vice and punch away. Guess you could set it on a bench and do similar. Just my two cents.
 
Not sure exactly how you are backing up the material when you punch your wads, but I have found that with piece of lumber, be it 2 by, 4 by of 6 by, the end grain of a piece of wood holds up well. I place the wood in a sturdy vice and punch away. Guess you could set it on a bench and do similar. Just my two cents.

I use a cutting mat for fabrics etc. It works very well, and doesn’t dull the punch as quickly as wood.
 
I also tried using the thinner 1/8 felt from Durofelt, mostly to save space for powder in the 36 Navy. They seem to work just as well, but by the time the material soaked up my lube(50/50 beeswax & lamb tallow) they were almost the thickness of the 1/4 material. However, the thinner wads were easier to punch out.
 
The lube Mark Hubbs of Eras Gone Bullet Moulds (shameless plug) uses is one ounce of common store lunsalted ard and a bar (4 oz.) common canning wax. It is soft enough for winter here in Central Texas and hard enough for summer.
Your weather may require adjustment of proportions.
Inexpensive and easy to find.
Bunk
 
Im sure that grocery store lard works fine, but it doesnt have the same medicine that deer tallow has, especially when you're using it to shoot another deer!
that could be I won't argue that, but when you are close to the century mark lard is a heap easier to get than deer tallow.
Young fellow you will see it a'comin' and you can't stop it.
Stay safe
shoot straight
Enjoy life
Bunk
 
To see if a poly blend burn a small piece. If you end up with tiny hard pieces or beads it is a blend. Ash only = wool or cotton.
Some where in these pages is a thread containing just such advise. A responder carried a Bic Lighter into thrift stores for just such a “test”.
I’ll pass. $25 buys enough 1/8 wool felt from DuroFelt for a couple of years worth of revolver wads.
 
I picked up a cheap white wool blanket at a garage sale a few years back and used most of it to make a blanket coat. I washed it and hung it to dry. I used the lighter test to make sure wasn’t a blend. I washed the scraps and dried them in the dryer. They felted up nicely to about an 1/8” thick. I punched them out to make revolver wads. Lubed them with a mixture of beeswax and lard.
 
Those look great. Only thing I’d do different? I am such a miser I would be placing those holes closer together. Even if I got one extra row. I am a cheap SOB! 🤣

If you want to save even more money, use .36 caliber wads in your .44’s.
Square wads work just as well as full-caliber wads. So do triangles.
Remember, wads are not gas seals; their only purpose is to carry lube.
 
Back
Top