My $250 Renegade

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Muddly

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Took her out with ball and REAL loads.
Her barrel is an " M" stamp, and although there's no visable/obvious pitting, there are several grab points when ramming. I've had several " M" stamps, a couple in new condition, and they all had grabs.
Recovered patch, only found 1, was heavily abraded by the lands.
I used a .530 ball, .015 patch lubed with mink oil, an overpowder wad and 70 grains of 3f Swiss.
First 3 at 50 were 1&15/16ths with 2 shots in nearly the same hole. The next 3 were 3 &1/4... Ugh.
The 300 grain REALs only needed thumb pressure to get the top band in. Lube was SPG and I used an o.p. wad and 70 grains of 3f Swiss.
The REALs, once passed the crown, rammer like a minie.
Only had 3 with me, but they grouped at 2 &1/4, with 2 in 3/4 inch.
No leading, thanks to the wad.
I'm fixin' to do some polishing of the bore to try to smooth/ even things a bit.
Those grabs are MOST annoying.
I'd like to keep her for conicals. The weight and stock design of the Renegade is excellent for helping to control recoil.
I believe a good .50 caliber conical is all that's needed.
But sometimes, a big hunk of medium velocity lead, is just... nice.
 

ElkStalker

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My Renegade is a 50, but I found she really likes 80gr of 3f and an .018” pillow ticking patch. It’s a night tight, but shoots way better than with a .015”.
 

Muddly

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Here are some pics of her.
I'm optimistic about her future.
I do agree. It's hard to find a better handling factory sidelock than a Renegade.
 

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ElkStalker

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Thanks.
I've actually got 3. Two shooters, this and a .50 flint. Another .50 flint as a parts rifle
Are the locks decent on the Renegade flinters? I have been dreaming of picking one up to go with my cap.
 

Muddly

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They're factory produced locks, so don't expect the smoothness of a Siler.
Their most common faults are less than optimal hammer/ tumbler axel fit, iffy frizzens ( in early models, easily corrected by installing a Lyman frizzen) and weird frizzen screws. I have had a couple that weren't properly machined.
They went to a new, and EXCEEDINGLY ugly, hammer. Supposedly to correct some geometry issues. I never had an issue with the old hammer, but whatever. They could've made them better looking...
These are annoying, but are all easy fixes.
Once properly set up, they are reliable and tough as nails.
After a bit of use, the do smooth up nicely though
 

ElkStalker

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They're factory produced locks, so don't expect the smoothness of a Siler.
Their most common faults are less than optimal hammer/ tumbler axel fit, iffy frizzens ( in early models, easily corrected by installing a Lyman frizzen) and weird frizzen screws. I have had a couple that weren't properly machined.
They went to a new, and EXCEEDINGLY ugly, hammer. Supposedly to correct some geometry issues. I never had an issue with the old hammer, but whatever. They could've made them better looking...
These are annoying, but are all easy fixes.
Once properly set up, they are reliable and tough as nails.
After a bit of use, the do smooth up nicely though
Thank you!!!! That’s good to know. If I get the chance to pick one up, I think L&R makes a lock for it. I was just curious. I’ve heard similar reports about the Lyman GPR Locks. I have both the Renegade and the GPR with percussion locks. I tend to grab the Renegade most days. It just fits me better and is a bit more handy for hiking.
 

TDM

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Thank you!!!! That’s good to know. If I get the chance to pick one up, I think L&R makes a lock for it. I was just curious. I’ve heard similar reports about the Lyman GPR Locks. I have both the Renegade and the GPR with percussion locks. I tend to grab the Renegade most days. It just fits me better and is a bit more handy for hiking.
The L&R RPL locks are good, I have one. But they will require polishing to work well.
 

Muddly

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Youre welcome. Glad to help.
There's a bit of work needed with an L&R, it's not a drop in. They have issues too. If your Renegade has a good lock, they're interchangeable with the Hawkin etc, your ahead sticking with that.
The stocks are the same for percussion and flint, so if you like you're current Renegade set up, you could buy a lock and barrel and swap out as needed.
 
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My .54 caplock Renegade with a PRB has quite a bit of an accuracy improvement between 70 grains and 75 grains of powder. At 75 grains groups are almost half what they are at 70 grains with 2f, with 3f it isn't quite as big of a difference but still quite an improvement.
With a .015" patch my groups are decent but bumping to an .018" patch is another noticeable improvement for mine.
I'd be curious to see how yours does if you bump to 75 grains and a bit thicker patch.
The above is with a PRB. With conicals I've always used 100 grains of 2f with pretty good results.
 
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