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Murphy's Oil Soap,

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
GREATER ST. LOUIS COUNTY
It's good every so often to examine one's bigotries.
I have long objected to MLS (Murphy's Oil Soap) without actually testing it in any way which both a bit unfair and largely dumb

There are many folks using it straight and mixed with a variety of other liquids.
They seem to feel it does the job but I wonder what kind of groups they are getting. My prejudice stems from the words OIL ad Soap. both of which might very well add slickness too the bore but Since I noticed "Honey Bunches of Oats has no honey in it I have wondered if MOS actually has Oil or soap in it.

Someone this AM reported that he used MOS in a somewhat apologetic manner. I decided to enquire what his results were when I came home from breakfast but could not relocate the post..

I wouldlike to hear from a MOS user. Always trying to learn.

Dutch
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
I have long objected to MLS (Murphy's Oil Soap) without actually testing it in any way which both a bit unfair and largely dumb


Dutch

I'm curious Dutch, what was your reasoning behind your objection?
 
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necchi said:
The stuff is for washing wood Dutch,, it's as simple as that.
It wasn't made to wash steel.

What is made for washing steel?

Most household cleaners are multi-surface safe and are designed for cleaning specific soils not surfaces. The fact that it is designed for wood means it won't harm your stock.

I use soap to wash my pots and pans....?

I look forward to hearing your expert reasoning behind your statement...

P.S. Wikipedia disagrees with you...

Wikipedia said:
Murphy Oil Soap is commonly used to clean and polish horse tack, such as bridles and saddles. It is also commonly used to clean black-powder weapons after use, since the lack of petroleum-based oil and the presence of vegetable oil lessens the amount of sludge that is created when cleaning black powder residues from weapons. It has also been found to efficiently remove the black powder residue that builds up on automobile wheels and hubcaps from the disc brakes. Murphy Oil Soap is also an excellent lubricant to use with water when throwing clay on a potter's wheel[citation needed]. It has also been found to quickly and easily dissolve water-based inks, such as Crayola marker ink, from acid-free paper.[4] Murphy Oil Soap is also a favorite among artists as a brush cleaner. After removing excess oil paint from the brush with a rag and cleaning with a mineral spirit, the brush can be cleaned with a small amount of dilute soap.[5] Diluted Murphy Oil Soap (2-4%) is often used by home gardeners as an insecticidal soap spray.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murphy_Oil_Soap
 
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CC, I thought I had made it clear that I had NO reasoning for my objection and it occurred to me that I was being unfair to the product and a bit dumb or stupid in having a prejudice without any reason.
In an old part of St. Louis there is a magnificent cathedral like church erected when the Area was an amalgam of Irish and German heritage folks.
The area has since changed and now the center of worst InnerCity populations. It has about 25 members still practicing there religion and a man was was working for some 25 years ago was buying bits and pieces of great woodwork from that church as a way of helping the current congregation continue in the building.
My exploratory visit to that church showed me bunch of Church Ladies scrubbing down the pews with Murphy's Oil Soap. which was doing a nice kob of renewing life to the pews.
That was my only prior experience with the pruct and I apparently couldn't make the leap of using a wood pruct on a steel barrel
I think it all came down to worrying about the two words, OIL and SOAP.

If I had had to quit sung my recipe I might have gone on to try Windshield washing formula

Now that I dare not use any hard liquor, Bourbon might work as well and it would give a slight party atmosphere to the range.
Thanks to all who responded to my stated ignorance of Murphy's Oil Soap.

Dutch
 
Technically, we are not using any of our cleaning solutions to wash steel. We are using the soaps to remove the caked on oils and fouling from the bore. It doesn't really matter if the detergent is Dawn dishwashing liquid, Murphy's Oil Soap, or any other mild oil penetrating detergent soap. Water does fine on the fouling all by itself and the detergents lift the burned on oils. That Murphy's Soap is mild enough to use on wood is a benefit.
 
Clyde,
Wikipedia doesn't disagree with me.
It saith that MOS is used by a lot of people to clean ML rifles. I believe that to be the truth as well.
My worry was that while cleaning it might leav two elements that might increase the slickness of the barrel.
Wikipedia is right. A lot of people use MOS. I agree that that is the case. My worry is that I am not certain that is a good thing.

YAda Yada

Dutch
 
Maven,
That's a Yiddish word for a wise person.
Your claim to use MAP or Friendship Speed Juice with much happiness and success over the years begs the question.
What is MAP or Friendship Speed Juice?
Judging by its name FSJ it is not likely to be a closely guarded secret that will die with you in Kingston.
Could you let the Congregation in on this wonderful product?
I am assuming it is not patented solution sold in bottles at friendship.

Enquiring minds want to know”¦When I visited Friendship many years ago I noticed people squirting freon down their barrels betweensjots.
I don't think that ever became a topic on the Forum
Did they do it before or after wiping the bore or did they do it instead of wiping the bore?

I will reveal my Moose Milk recepe for those few who may not know it if you'll show me yours.

Dutch
 
MAP is equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, alcohol, and mild hydrogen peroxide. This is an aggressive cleaner that generates a lot of foam when black powder fouling is encountered. Some users are concerned that the extra oxygen molecule will accelerate rusting in the bore and replace the hydrogen peroxide with water. Cleaning still requires the water (as part of the peroxide solution) to be removed. WD40 is good. Then a good rest inhibiting lube to finish the cleaning before storage (muzzle down to drain liquid from the breech).

The solution varies over the use of 70% isopropyl alcohol or 90% alcohol. Some use 6% H2O2 and other a weaker percentage. In practice it really doesn't matter. 0% water works too. As long as you believe you are getting your firearm clean, then you are using the correct ingredients.
 
Hi Dutch.
I don’t clean with MOS, but do use it as a patch lube. Seems to work for me and I can shoot for hours without having to wipe the bore out. A friend of mine in the USA put me on to it and I’ve used it ever since. Only one of my guns doesn’t seem to like it.
Best regards
Simon
 
Maven and Grenadier,
I used to have a shot or two of Hydrogene peroxide but dropped it in the believe that the H2O2 ( is that correct for hydrogen peroxide? would go flat when diluted by so much water.

A very odd thing is that Australians and I believe New Zealanders are afraid of Hydrogen Peroxide. / Apparently there was an explosion caused by it in the past that has scarred their collective emories.. I had some 50 or 60% Hyogen peroxide that came with all sorts of warnings and probably was capable of some sort of mayhem but they refused to use any of it, even the 3% antiseptic variety even if it is diluted in enormously in a wealth of water
My Moose Milk Recepie is as follows.
One part Ballistol or Water soluble oil
One part Lestoil or Pine Sol
Two parts 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (Optional)
Twenty parts water

Those of you with a sense of humor might call that

Dutch's Oil Soap because it has those two words I objected to in MOS Oil and Soap.

Whatever I will shut uo about MOS as my mother would provide an olde German Maxim of the Pot Calling The Kettle Black. I believe that is also an English expression//
 
Just drip some on. Only takes a drop. Just spread it across the surface of the patch with my finger. Difficult to say how much. I’ve sorta got used to dripping on just enough to moisten one side of the patch.
 
That's pretty much what I did. Except I had a flip top bottle that would produce a very thin stream on one side of the wiping patch and then I'd Rub it in with my thumb.
Absolutely no chance of an excess drop wetting down your next powder charge.

Dutch
 
There are many folks who don't wipe between shots.If you can do this and still get tight groups BRAVO WITH BELLS ON.

USUALLY THE WIPE AVOIDING GOO CLEARS THE RESIDUE BUT LEAVES TOO SLICK A LUBE CAUSING THE PATCHED BALL TO ZIP DOWN RANGE LONG BEFORE THE POWDER HAS DONEITS THING.
WERE IT 20 YEARS AGO I WOULD HAVE LOVED TO TRY OUT ALL THESE WONDERFUL METHODS.


IT'S ALL FUN.

DUTCH
 
I own a CVA Kentucky Rifle I picked up in trade a couple of weeks ago. I have about $125 tied up in it and it looks like a $125 rifle. I use patch lube (Ballistol, MOS and Water) to treat homemade patches made of pillow ticking and let them dry. What is interesting is that the bore near the muzzle looks clean after loading with a nearly dry patch.

I shot groups without wiping between shots. I did not sort the Hornady round balls by weight either. I fired a 2-1/4" W x 1-1/4" H group at 50 meters today. The group was fired with shots # 26 - # 30. I attribute the group being much wider than it is high due to a heavy trigger and my poor trigger control.

Then I threw some clay birds on the berm and shot offhand for fun. I fired 55 shots without cleaning.

I have Dutch Schoultz' 23rd. Edition and read it a few times. I believe I can shrink the groups by following his advice. That will be my next step.
 
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